Thanks guys. Some follow up Qs, if anyone would be kind to answer:
once carbonated (either "set and forget" or burst), would you leave the CO2 regulator at same pressure after this, as serving pressure? Or do you lower it?
If I have more than one keg I want to be served by the same CO2-tank and they contain different kind of beers with different volumes of CO2 (like english ale vs. wheat beer), do they need to be on different regulators with different pressure?
Does the beer/keg need to be hooked up to the line constantly even if it's not in use (for instance set aside for "maturing")?
Thanks and cheers!
some good advice already but I'll add a little.
Most beer is as good as it's gonna get while it's fresh. Aging really only improves beer if there's a flavor you want to age out or it's dark and complex.
You'll need to keep the pressure set and the gas hooked up otherwise as you draw beer out the pressure in the head space will drop and your beer will loose carbonation.
Multiple regulators are ideal but not necessary unless you really want to hit specific CO2 volumes. I currently have a Stout, Wheat and IPA all at the same pressure. Ideally they would range from about 7 to 17 psi. Multiple regulators are on my short list of upgrades (just got some b day cash!) but you can get by just fine with one. The reality is the CO2 volume of any beer changes pretty quickly once you put it in a cup.
I like the suggestion of not burst carbonating until you have a few under your belt. Learning your system will be a lot easier without the variable of over carbonated beer which is easy to do when you burst carbonate. I hit mine with 50psi for 24 hours followed by 30 psi for 24 hours followed by 12psi for serving (that'll need to change when I get multiple regulators) but different people find different pressures and times work best. I also like to let it sit for 48 hours to cold crash out all the yeast which flushes out in the first pint which gets dumped. I'd strongly suggest never doing the shake method. I tried it a couple times early on and always ended up over carbonated (glass of foam anyone?). You get to drink it a little quicker but it's not properly crashed, especially relevant if you transfer any trub. I always wonder how the guys who are drinking it the same day are getting the right temperature, you need at least a day for that to stabilize.
When you transfer to the keg, fill it with a no rinse sanitizer all the way to the brim and use CO2 pressure to empty the keg into another vessel (I use a keg dedicated to starsan). This will leave you with an oxygen free keg to begin filling with beer, do not remove the lid until the keg has been drained. To fill it, hook your transfer line up to the beer out post so you fill it from the bottom up, you'll need to either remove the pressure relief valve or hook a disconnect up to the gas post to vent it. I use fermonsters with a spigot so I run a line off of the gas post back to the fermentor for a closed O2 free transfer.
When you're balancing your system remember that longer beer lines reduce foaming. Some people get by with 5 feet, some need 15. I'm not sure why but the line length calculators you find on line didn't work for me.
Cleaning them can be a pain or really simple. I give em a quick water rinse and flush out my beer line using a little CO2 pressure. Then put in about 1 gal of PBW, shake, flush out the beer line (keep it for washing the little bits and pieces). Then do the same with some more water and disassemble to dry. Once you get the hang of it it's a pretty quick process and certainly easier than cleaning bottles.
cheers!