Bottling Bucket Fermentation

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Cerveza23

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I know I'm not alone when I say that I use my bottling bucket for fermentation purposes. I have never had any issues with it, however I have never trusted transferring my wort through the spigot with a silicone hose. My concern lies with sanitation. I cannot figure out a fool-proof way to sanitize the inside of the spigot before transferring. Aside from the individuals that say "you shouldn't use your bottling bucket for fermentation," what are your suggestions? Do you think it is unnecessary to sanitize it if the beer is fully fermented?
 
All my fermenters have spigots, and they rotate. I thoroughly soak it with a spray bottle of sanitizer.
Haven't had any contaminations yet.
 
All my fermenters have spigots, and they rotate. I thoroughly soak it with a spray bottle of sanitizer.
Haven't had any contaminations yet.
So you just use your spray bottle of sanitizer and soak the inside (obviously spraying inside of it) and outside before attaching your hose to transfer, correct? Do you take samples from the spigot anytime beforehand to run tests?
 
You need to take those plastic bucket spigots apart though.
The main body that holds the faucet, and rotates inside the outer housing (that has the nut) will pop out. Use a small force (using the back of a screwdriver or serving spoon, something that fits in there), after soaked the assembly in some hot, near boiling water for 15-20 seconds. If there's any slimy black residue (probably pedio) in that tight space between, you've never cleaned it well enough.
 
So you just use your spray bottle of sanitizer and soak the inside (obviously spraying inside of it) and outside before attaching your hose to transfer, correct? Do you take samples from the spigot anytime beforehand to run tests?
Correct.
Yes, I sometimes take samples beforehand.

And yes, @IslandLizard is also correct. I dissemble the spigot for cleaning and sanitizing. The rotating part (for turning the spigot direction) is really hard to get apart and put back together though, so I don't always clean that. The PBW soak must be sanitizing it well enough. It could be sanitized in boiling water though, if you're worried about that and don't want to take it apart.

For my gear I rinse -> warm PBW soak -> rinse -> warm citric acid wash, store in a relatively clean environment, and sanitize before use. Disassembled spigots go in a plastic bag to reduce exposure to airborne microbes.

Cheers
 
Well alrighty then! It looks like I'm having a spigot cleaning party tonight!

@RPh_Guy I assume you sanitize every time you go to take a sample and then again when you go to transfer, correct?
 
I have a glass bottling carboy. I tried it for fermenting thinking I could run the wort out of the spigot to a keg. Even though it is about two inches from the bottom it still sucked in some trub due to the agitation caused by the flowing wort.
I am sticking to siphoning it out...
 
I'd keep it covered with foil or something during fermentation. Then spray starsan thoroughly on and inside it prior to dispensing.
 
You need to take those plastic bucket spigots apart though.
The main body that holds the faucet, and rotates inside the outer housing (that has the nut) will pop out. Use a small force (using the back of a screwdriver or serving spoon, something that fits in there), after soaked the assembly in some hot, near boiling water for 15-20 seconds. If there's any slimy black residue (probably pedio) in that tight space between, you've never cleaned it well enough.

Today I Learned!

I found a video showing the steps for a common rotating spigot.


I was able to take apart mine and found some gunk in a couple of them. I have a couple all white ones that do not rotate (like this https://www.morebeer.com/products/plastic-spigot-bucket.html). I was able to pop off the handle by heating the spigot in water and pushing from underneath (I used a chopstick).
 
Definitely always remove the rotating part that opens and closes the spigot. You shouldn't need heat to remove it, just wiggle it back and forth while pressing on the bottom. ... Try not to break the handle.

These are what I use: https://www.morebeer.com/products/plastic-spigot-bucket-sediment-block.html
Rotating is convenient, a bottling wand fits directly onto it, and they are less leaky than the other type in my experience.

FYI: The rotating part that changes the direction of the spigot comes with what looks/feels like a petrolatum type of lubricant. Cleaning removes it (otherwise you're doing it wrong), so you'll want to add some kind of lubricant when you assemble it again. I use a "sanitary" food-grade silicone spray lubricant.
As mentioned, it's much more difficult to disassemble these pieces, and I'm not sure it's worth doing if you soak it in PBW or other percarbonate cleaner. I would rather buy a new one every time rather than disassemble and reassemble it every time it was that annoying.
 
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I don't use a bottling bucket per se. I use a white 5 gallon bucket from Home Depot for the first few days of fermentation, then I siphon the beer to a carboy after the initial activity dies down. There is no spigot. I do 4 gallon batches, so they will fit in a 5, but you could start 5 gallons in a 6 gallon bucket.
 
The rotating part (for turning the spigot direction) is really hard to get apart and put back together though, so I don't always clean that. The PBW soak must be sanitizing it well enough. It could be sanitized in boiling water though, if you're worried about that and don't want to take it apart.
It's very easy to push apart after that short soak in very hot water. PBW or sanitizer can't get inside that crevice easily. Pedio can withstand high temps apparently, living in the spaces behind the ball in uncleaned kettle valves.
 
It's very easy to push apart after that short soak in very hot water. PBW or sanitizer can't get inside that crevice easily. Pedio can withstand high temps apparently, living in the spaces behind the ball in uncleaned kettle valves.
Have you tried it with the exact same spigots I have? If not, which are you using?
I would disassemble them if it weren't so difficult.

Also, H2O2 is many orders of magnitude smaller than bacterial cells, so I don't entirely buy the argument that it doesn't reach. These arguments are purely theoretical. In practice, I haven't had problems.
 
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Have you tried it with the exact same spigots I have? If not, which are you using?
I would disassemble them if it weren't so difficult.

Also, H2O2 is many orders of magnitude smaller than bacterial cells, so I don't entirely but the argument that it doesn't reach. These arguments are purely theoretical. In practice, I haven't had problems.
I'm talking about the same spigot as in the video above.
I doubt molecular size has anything to do with penetration of tight spaces/crevices. Films, surface tensions, and such. I've seen the black slime buildup between those spigot bodies. As well as the black tar-ish residue inside ball valves.
 
Those are a different brand than I have. The one I disassembled had no buildup.
Also you use a less robust PBW than I do.
 
An awesome cleaner that I love to use on practically all of my equipment is a hot solution of OxiClean Free. It removes all the gunk it comes in contact with granted you have to rinse all of your items thoroughly that the solution came in contact with.

Side note, I took apart all 3 of my spigots last night and only 1 had the slightest bit of gunk in it. Pretty much a few little black specks. I've never took them apart before and each has had 20-30 5G batches run through them and never had any issues. Perhaps the OxiClean Free solution and thorough sanitation helped with that, but I don't think you need to take these things apart all that often. Going forward, I'll probably run 5 or so batches through before I take them apart again.
 
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