Bootleg Biology MTF Funk Island Mega Blend - How to

[abrewer12345]

i bought a pack of this at my LHBS and i've never really done a sour before. looking for some recommendations for recipes and some advice in general. I was thinking something pretty basic like 70% 2-Row and 30% wheat, some really low alpha hop towards the end of boil (i have some wai-ti lying around), and then just putting into the carboy, pitching the yeast and letting it ride for a couple months. seem reasonable? i'm not looking for anything too complex with my first shot at this. any advice is appreciated.

PS. i commented on a previous thread about the yeast but no responses have come in a few weeks.

thanks!!

 

[Jag75]

70 - 30 is great . Not sure about your blend I've never used it before. With some advise from Rph guy I went with his post sour method ( co pitching ) instead of doing kettle sour . It was easy and have already done another one since it was a hit.

 

[RPh_Guy]

This culture is not compatible with post-souring or any other accelerated process.

70/30 pale/wheat malt is what I always use for my lambic-inspired beers.
Use a mash schedule designed for low attenuation.

I haven't used this particular culture, but I'd suggest anywhere from 0.4-1 oz of low AA hops, depending on how sour you want it. Boil the hops 60 minutes.

It's probably a good idea to ferment with your favorite Belgian strain and then add the blend.

I recommend fermenting in PET, and leave it in primary for 6-18 months. If you want oak, hop, or fruit flavor, add it before packaging. Avoid disturbing the pellicle too much.

Adding yeast from an acid shock starter when packaging is recommended. Also when adding fruit.

Cheers

 

[DiscDuffer]

I would go with what RPh Guy said. Do not know if there are any sacc strains, but there will be brett and bacteria, who knows what kinds.

Though to 'really' be called a lambic in needs 35% unmalted wheat.

 

[abrewer12345]

This culture is not compatible with post-souring or any other accelerated process.

70/30 pale/wheat malt is what I always use for my lambic-inspired beers.
Use a mash schedule designed for low attenuation.

I haven't used this particular culture, but I'd suggest anywhere from 0.4-1 oz of low AA hops, depending on how sour you want it. Boil the hops 60 minutes.

It's probably a good idea to ferment with your favorite Belgian strain and then add the blend.

I recommend fermenting in PET, and leave it in primary for 6-18 months. If you want oak, hop, or fruit flavor, add it before packaging. Avoid disturbing the pellicle too much.

Adding yeast from an acid shock starter when packaging is recommended. Also when adding fruit.

Cheers

this is great, thank you so much for breaking this down. so i'll just brew pretty normal, pitch a belgian yeast, and let it ferment out. THEN add the bootleg strain. i have a spare carboy that i was intending to let it live in for an extended period of time. what is PET? and can you explain the acid shock starter? THANKS!!!

 

[abrewer12345]

also what would you advise for a water profile? i don't use RO but i have all the info on my tap water. thanks!

 

[abrewer12345]

oh one last question- before pitching the mix culture, should i build a starter like normal?

 

[RPh_Guy]

what is PET?

PET is a type of plastic. For example it's used for almost all soda bottles.

Ported Fermonsters are excellent all around in my opinion:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/fermonster-6-gallon-ported-carboy-spigot-included.html
https://www.morebeer.com/products/plastic-spigot-bucket-sediment-block.html

I don't have photos of my sours handy but here's one of a kveik fermenting at 95°F in a 3 gallon Fermonster heated by a FermWrap and Inkbird 308.

PET plastic is especially well suited for mixed fermentations because the Brettanomyces yeast needs a little bit of oxygen to produce good flavor. Glass doesn't provide enough oxygen. HPDE (the plastic commonly used for buckets) is OK too, but buckets often don't seal very well and are opaque.

An acid shock starter is the process of growing yeast in an acidic starter, to get them ready for removing oxygen and carbonating a sour beer. It's the best/only way to prevent an off-flavor (THP).
There are a few different methods for making these starters. I like to use EC-1118 yeast, rehydrate properly in Go-Ferm, and add to a small starter that I make with particular amounts of sugar, acids, and a buffer.

also what would you advise for a water profile? i don't use RO but i have all the info on my tap water. thanks!

I use RO for all my beer.
For most sours I prefer sulfate 10-30ppm, chloride around 50-80ppm, and sodium 5-15ppm. I don't worry much about magnesium or calcium. Feel free to adjust as desired.
Be aware higher alkalinity in the water makes the beer more sour.

should i build a starter like normal?

No, don't make a starter. Just bring to room temp, shake it up, and dump it in.

 

[abrewer12345]

long time no talk- quick question though. the beer is coming along great, but do i need to pasteurize this? it's ok to drink right? just want to make sure we don't give everyone at my buddy's wedding botulism

 

[abrewer12345]

PET is a type of plastic. For example it's used for almost all soda bottles.

Ported Fermonsters are excellent all around in my opinion:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/fermonster-6-gallon-ported-carboy-spigot-included.html
https://www.morebeer.com/products/plastic-spigot-bucket-sediment-block.html

I don't have photos of my sours handy but here's one of a kveik fermenting at 95°F in a 3 gallon Fermonster heated by a FermWrap and Inkbird 308.
View attachment 649197

PET plastic is especially well suited for mixed fermentations because the Brettanomyces yeast needs a little bit of oxygen to produce good flavor. Glass doesn't provide enough oxygen. HPDE (the plastic commonly used for buckets) is OK too, but buckets often don't seal very well and are opaque.

An acid shock starter is the process of growing yeast in an acidic starter, to get them ready for removing oxygen and carbonating a sour beer. It's the best/only way to prevent an off-flavor (THP).
There are a few different methods for making these starters. I like to use EC-1118 yeast, rehydrate properly in Go-Ferm, and add to a small starter that I make with particular amounts of sugar, acids, and a buffer.

I use RO for all my beer.
For most sours I prefer sulfate 10-30ppm, chloride around 50-80ppm, and sodium 5-15ppm. I don't worry much about magnesium or calcium. Feel free to adjust as desired.
Be aware higher alkalinity in the water makes the beer more sour.

No, don't make a starter. Just bring to room temp, shake it up, and dump it in.

long time no talk- quick question though. the beer is coming along great, but do i need to pasteurize this? it's ok to drink right? just want to make sure we don't give everyone at my buddy's wedding botulism

 

[RPh_Guy]

It's perfectly safe

 

[abrewer12345]

It's perfectly safe

thanks for the quick response! why would people be concerned about botulism? because we fermented, and pitched the MTF bugs at room temp, i've read people are worried about making people sick drinking it. thanks again!!

 

[RPh_Guy]

We have FIVE layers of protection against the growth of Clostridium species.

1. We aren't adding Clostridium spores to our beer. The amount of Clostridium spores on grain is very low to none.
2. Hops inhibit all gram positive bacteria, including Clostridium.
3. From the time of aeration until the yeast become active enough to lower the pH, the beer is protected from Clostridium by the presence of oxygen. Clostridium is an obligate anaerobe and cannot grow in the presence of oxygen.
4. Once the yeast (and/or lactic acid bacteria) lower the pH to 4.5 or lower, Clostridium cannot grow.
5. Your olfactory sense is 100% designed to keep you safe by detecting compounds formed by Clostridium and other harmful bacteria.

Couple this with the fact that there are never any cases of food poisoning from beer (other than alcohol), there is absolutely no risk to your health.

Yay science! Boo paranoia.