Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

[rgteich]

that port in the lid is for my recirc during mash. When I boil I leave it connected so it’s not open it has a hose from there to the tee at the bottom of the kettle. Sorry that threw everyone off….

I’m currently soaking my nozzle in vinegar, my water supply here is hard water 3/4” line direct from my well. I’m thinking my nozzle might be clogged with hard water build up.

 

[DuncB]

Heating the vinegar will speed the reaction up.

 

[mongoose33]

I’ve got a steam slayer but still getting a noticeable amount of humidity rise in the house. (I brew in my basement). My input water is about 55-60f Minnesota well water. My out put temp I don’t have off hand but less than 100f if I remember the last time I checked. I’ve got a slight curve in my output line and then it lays flat in the bottom of the sink where it points at the drain. This might be my problem now that I think about it more as I’m typing this.

Thoughts? Anyone having/had similar issues?

If there's any back pressure at all, it won't work.

I found that if there was a dip in the output line so that water collected in the bottom of the dip and "plugged up" the line, steam wouldn't flow into the condenser, and it would come out around the lid.

I have a drain for a reverse osmosis filter, the output line from the steam slayergoes into an open drain with a trap on it. I sealed the line to that drain using foam sealant and...guess what? Wouldn't work!

In my experience, any back pressure at all and it won't work. The condenser water has to drain away clear.

My "issue" with this is the smell is bad. Never figured that one out, just have to live with it, I guess.

 

[tracer bullet]

My "issue" with this is the smell is bad. Never figured that one out, just have to live with it, I guess.

That was the real reason I started inverting my little plastic pitcher over the line. It does stink, but only for a while it seems. Not sure if it's 15min or 30 but it does go away. Always have been curious what it is that is coming out that stinks? I suppose it's why it's always said to not boil with the lid on (other than not seeing a boil-over coming).

 

[bike2brew]

Here's my setup with the Spike steam condenser lid and the SSBrewtech SVBS. Works like a charm dialed in and once I got my process figured out. No boil overs or overflow buckets last several brew days

 

[GregKelley]

If there's any back pressure at all, it won't work.

I found that if there was a dip in the output line so that water collected in the bottom of the dip and "plugged up" the line, steam wouldn't flow into the condenser, and it would come out around the lid.

I have a drain for a reverse osmosis filter, the output line from the steam slayergoes into an open drain with a trap on it. I sealed the line to that drain using foam sealant and...guess what? Wouldn't work!

In my experience, any back pressure at all and it won't work. The condenser water has to drain away clear.

My "issue" with this is the smell is bad. Never figured that one out, just have to live with it, I guess.

You are right. If you run your steam slayer drain into a bucket, as soon as the drain is submerged in water, the system stops.

 

[Tartan1]

overflow buckets last several brew days

I was considering using buckets for collecting output water instead of having it directed into the drain. I've always been cautious of using the sink drain by mixing output water with cooler tap water before letting it all flush down the drain. My worry has been melting the plastic pipes with very hot water/steam. When you mention the buckets last several brew days does this mean the buckets degrade over time due to the excessive heat?