BLING BLING Electric HERMS Conversion

[The Pol]

I am hoping, and that is all that it is at this point, that I will have cad drawings and schematics for my new build. Again, hoping... playing with a couple CAD applications now.

 

[bakins]

I am hoping, and that is all that it is at this point, that I will have cad drawings and schematics for my new build. Again, hoping... playing with a couple CAD applications now.

Can't wait to see it. FWIW, I'm going in the opposite direction - I'm dumbing my brewery down. I have 4 kids, so my attention on brewday is lacking Moving to 10 gallon single pot, partial-mash, brew-in-a-bag, no-chill batches. Seeing if I can just use my boil element for temperature hold/adjustment and eliminate the RIMS tube as well.

That's why I love this hobby - to each his own, pass me a beer

 

[IrregularPulse]

Very close to having all my parts. My main difference is my use of a Ranco of the Johnson for HLT. Does anyone know if the same Type K Thermocouple will work with a ranco? I cna't remember what type probe they have. It would be easy enough to swap in and I like the disconnectability

 

[IrregularPulse]

*EDIT*

My backwards mistake

 

[The Pol]

Just wanted to make a quick comment about your parts list that I ran into.

The PID you have spec'd is SYL-2352. The '5' specifies a Relay output. It should be SYL-2342 where the '4' specifies an SSR output.
Luckily when my mom ordered the parts for Christmas, the Auber guy let her know that I needed the SYL-2342 based on what she was ordering and that's what I got. Just heads up to anyone copying this system like me

Hate to burst your bubble...

Your mom got the wrong PID then. You got the Relay Output, which will not work.
Auber Instruments SYL-2352 is SSR output.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

You got this:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1

The parts list is flawless

 

[IrregularPulse]

Must have gotten stuff backwards. (Don't have my parts in front of me at work) but knew there was something with the part numbers. I must have written the number down wrong originally from your post to give to her. I do have the SSR output PID.

 

[The Pol]

Must have gotten stuff backwards. (Don't have my parts in front of me at work) but knew there was something with the part numbers. I must have written the number down wrong originally from your post to give to her. I do have the SSR output PID.

Good good... that will work wonderfully. I was going to say, I just ordered a couple more SYL-2352's... dont tell me that they are not the right ones

 

[IrregularPulse]

I thought for sure you did a thread similar to this for you EHLT. I cannot find it to save my life if you did. Is there a write up? No big if not, but I know I got these part numbers from somewhere

 

[The Pol]

I thought for sure you did a thread similar to this for you EHLT. I cannot find it to save my life if you did. Is there a write up? No big if not, but I know I got these part numbers from somewhere

Nope, no HLT build thread. I did that one in private

 

[IrregularPulse]

Where the crap did I get the motor, Stirpaddle and coupler part number???

 

[The Pol]

Where the crap did I get the motor, Stirpaddle and coupler part number???

I have a HERMS thread, not an HLT thread... let me look

 

[IrregularPulse]

I'll try and look around. Maybe it was another build somewhere. They cut a copper grounding ring from sheet copper and I think you just grounded your HLT to your frame.

 

[The Pol]

I'll try and look around. Maybe it was another build somewhere. They cut a copper grounding ring from sheet copper and I think you just grounded your HLT to your frame.

It is in this thread...
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/new-10-gallon-herms-pics-76773/

 

[IrregularPulse]

Awsome. I'll cease to bug you and run OT in this thread. Thanks pol.

 

[The Pol]

Awsome. I'll cease to bug you and run OT in this thread. Thanks pol.

No problem, keeps me sharp in the "off" months.

 

[LKHA]

thanks for the wite up will be alot of help

 

[The Pol]

thanks for the wite up will be alot of help

No problem, it has gotten pretty long.

 

[LKHA]

has anybody found a ss fitting for the element for a weld application?

 

[The Pol]

has anybody found a ss fitting for the element for a weld application?

Heck, you could just get the straight thread nut from BargainFittings and weld it on, then screw the element into that. Thing is, just drilling a hole and using the nut on the inside of the kettle does the same thing with less hassle.

 

[LKHA]

what is the thickness of the nut I know I could just use the o-ring I have the capability in the garage to do full weld system and never worry about leaks

 

[Baron ken]

what is the thickness of the nut I know I could just use the o-ring I have the capability in the garage to do full weld system and never worry about leaks

How so? You either:

1. cut a hole, put the element through and use the nut with an o-ring
   or
2. cut a hole, weld the nut and screw the element in using an o-ring.

#1 sounds easier since both still have potential to leak.

 

[The Pol]

How so? You either:

1. cut a hole, put the element through and use the nut with an o-ring
   or
2. cut a hole, weld the nut and screw the element in using an o-ring.

#1 sounds easier since both still have potential to leak.

Yep... no real difference there

 

[IrregularPulse]

How so? You either:

1. cut a hole, put the element through and use the nut with an o-ring
   or
2. cut a hole, weld the nut and screw the element in using teflon tape.

#1 sounds easier since both still have potential to leak.

Some may be more comfortable with hit threads with teflon over using an o-ring they can crush.

 

[illin8]

Anyone got a source for the GFCI extension cord previously mentioned? They are no longer available on E-bay I don't believe...

 

[The Pol]

Anyone got a source for the GFCI extension cord previously mentioned? They are no longer available on E-bay I don't believe...

Last I looked, they are hard to find, pretty pricey... almost the cost of a GFCI breaker.

 

[Brewmoor]

Contact this guy.

I just won with a best offer of $65. He might have more and just has not relisted since I purchased mine this morning.

http://stores.ebay.com/Friesen-Electric

 

[The Pol]

Many that I found are for the pressure washer business... here is a site.

http://www.ultimatewasher.com/gfci-cords-plugs.htm

For a 30A breaker you will pay $85

 

[Brewmoor]

Here is a link to the one I purchased.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110302613578&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

 

[Baron ken]

Contact this guy.

I just won with a best offer of $65. He might have more and just has not relisted since I purchased mine this morning.

http://stores.ebay.com/Friesen-Electric

Ditto. $65
It will be here Thursday.

 

[zinger084]

I just bought one of those from Ohio-Ed on the forums here and I hooked it up and it's awesome. It's 17 feet long and very well made. I went this route since Square D Homeline series 30 amp GFCI's are $163.