I brew the BIAB and often wounded if the quality of the beer is less than mashing out quality. I belong to a local homebrew club and we have competition between the members and most of the time the mashed beers have been winning the competition. For the most part all the entries are very good. Just looking for opinions. Thanks.
BIAB vs Mash Quality
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I am unaware of any process performed with a traditional mash tun and lauter that can not be done on a BIAB system.
Mash out, check. Decoction, check. Step mash, check. Sparge, check. Fly sparge, check. Recirculating mash, check. Multi-thousand dollar system promising better beer, check.
Mash out, check. Decoction, check. Step mash, check. Sparge, check. Fly sparge, check. Recirculating mash, check. Multi-thousand dollar system promising better beer, check.
Broken Crow
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My opinion is that it's down to the level of brewing experience. Long-time brewers predate BIAB culture and though BIAB has been a game changer, most folk follow the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" maxim and are simply using the 3V systems they honed their skill on. There are some minor efficiency hurdles with BIAB but 'efficiency' is an objective measure that any brewers can deal with. 'Quality' takes skill acquired over time and is subjective anyway. Just give it time and you'll probably see the ratio shift.
What's the difference in process that you are referring to?
BIAB also utilizes a mash.
You're comparing 3 vessel to BIAB, or what?
Yes three vessel or equivalent brewing systems.
If by BIAB you are referring to using a bag for the mash/lauter, then, as others have said, it's unlikely to be the BIAB specifically - look to see what the other differences in process are other than using a bag.
Jack of All Trades
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As others have stated, I also doubt BIAB vs 3v traditional is the major difference. I personally find my beers are much better when I pay very close attention to the smallest of details in the brew day, fermentation process, and kegging. So many opportunities for minute details to be overlooked that can turn an otherwise fantastic beer to a mediocre beer.
Brewer Mike
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I started BIAB about a year ago, and have medaled in a few competitions. Not to brag, but to point out that BIAB is valid.
I think it's more process. QC, sanitation, recipe development, temp control, etc.
I think it's more process. QC, sanitation, recipe development, temp control, etc.
I agree. I started to make better beer when I put some focus on making better beer (water chemistry, fermentation temp, yeast health & pitch rate, avoiding oxidation, etc.). I think it was early 2000 when I "upgraded" from a basic 3-vessel system to BIAB. I don't see where the switch to BIAB had any impact on the quality of my beer (positive or negative), but it did shave a solid hour off my brew day. I have also done a decent job in competitions with my BIAB process, including using a very simple setup making 2.5 gal batches on my stove.
One reason I gave BIAB a try was that a friend that had won my local club's Brewer of the Year had moved to BIAB. I figured I should at least give it a try. The best homebrewer I know uses a 3-vessel system, but I think it is more that he is a great brewer that understands his equipment and process. Lots of guys at my local club made excellent beer using all-in-one system.
BIAB does not make inferior wort by rule. There are many ways to make inferior wort on all types of systems. The most successful brewers in my circle of peers, club, etc all use BIAB (silver medals at NHC, state brewing champions, etc). Wort production is a very small part of the equation and other than neglect of water chemistry/mash pH and possibly stale ingredients, there isn't much to go wrong there. I'd argue that sparging would make a bad mash pH problem a lot worse.
There are more ways to screw up a beer on the cold side. Oxygen damage, contamination, wild temp swings, poor yeast health to name a few.
There are more ways to screw up a beer on the cold side. Oxygen damage, contamination, wild temp swings, poor yeast health to name a few.
Let the bag drain over the pot, and squeeze/twist it if you have to. If you're not getting as much gravity as you're expecting, you might be leaving quarts of good sweetness in the bag...
I have tried all of the approaches. The only difference I see is keeping clear wort throughout the process. BIAB has a sediment issue going from the mash to the boil kettle. Some systems worse than others. I am not here to state good or bad, just to point out the difference. Multi-vessel will allow you to lauter very clear wort if that is part of your process. Outside of that, soaking milled grains in hot water will take place in all of the systems. So beer will be made. Convenience takes away *some* options but those options might not matter to you.
Being a good/great brewer is about the entire package. Wort production is only a part of it all. So it is a solid approach to have a simple system, make some wort and work on all aspects like yeast health, large pitches and cold side oxygen ingress. You can always change to a 3v system in the future if those options matter more to you at that moment.
Being a good/great brewer is about the entire package. Wort production is only a part of it all. So it is a solid approach to have a simple system, make some wort and work on all aspects like yeast health, large pitches and cold side oxygen ingress. You can always change to a 3v system in the future if those options matter more to you at that moment.
I started all grain with a 3 vessel system using fly sparge method. Sometimes wheat beers would worry they never got stuck but sure went slow without rice hulls! I moved to biab once I started up again after a break from the hobby.
I chose biab because it took up less space and it was something new to explore. I like to experiment to keep from getting board and to learn. I started biab doing the drip & squeeze thing at the end of the mash then I started letting it drip for about 5 minutes while I heat the wort followed by sparging the bag with cool filtered tap water followed by the squeeze & my efficiency improved. I feel the finished product is as good as what my prior method produced.
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redrocker652002
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I use the BIAB method and enjoy it. It means I don't have to worry as much about all the different parts of the process. I added a Igloo style cooler that I do a basic sparge where I dump the grains in the cooler, cover with 170 degree water and let it sit for about 15 mins and drain it into my kettle. That seems to have increased my efficiency a bit, maybe from about 65 to 75% and gives me a bit more to do and say I am going "old school" LOL. I have two of the three keggles needed with all the different ball valves and fittings and all to do a 3 vessel system, but I just have not gone thru all the stuff I was given to see what I have. Space for me is also an issue, so this way seems to be working so far.
I see no difference in quality, 3v vs. BIAB. Only thing with BIAB is more sediment, due to the bags, but getting a fine mesh bag can reduce that some.
Whirlfloc is your friend.
Whirlfloc is your friend.
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