BIAB Kettle insulation material

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cmybeer

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Just wondering if there are any insulation materials out there that people have used for their BIAB kettle? I know there is the reflectix that most people end up using or just covering it in a sleeping bag but I was hoping there was another type of heat and water resistant material to make a type of kettle jacket out of.

Thoughts? Ideas?
 
Thoughts:
1. How long does it take for you to get full conversion. 60 minutes is a standard mash period but it doesn't tell you how long you need.
2. How cold is it where you mash? Unless it is cold and windy your mash may not need much insulation.
3. How well crushed is your grain? The crush of the grain determines how long the mash period needs to be.
4. How heat resistant does it need to be. Your mash should not be hotter than 160F.
5. I'm careful not to spill. My insulation (if I used any) wouldn't need to be water resistant. I hate cleaning up spills.
 
I use a snugee and a thick blanket to insulate my kettle during the mash.

I put the snugee over the kettle and use the arms to make sure it is tied tightly. Then I throw the thick blanket on top of that.

Yesterday I brewed (93°F outside) and the 60 minute mash only dropped 1°F. I always stir once at 30 minutes. In the winter I usually drop about 3°F.
 
Just wondering if there are any insulation materials out there that people have used for their BIAB kettle? I know there is the reflectix that most people end up using or just covering it in a sleeping bag but I was hoping there was another type of heat and water resistant material to make a type of kettle jacket out of.

Thoughts? Ideas?
I bought a couple moving blankets from Harbor Freight($4.79).
I wrap one around the mashtun with a bungy cord and the other I fold and lay on top... works like a charm[emoji6]
 
Thoughts:
2. How cold is it where you mash? Unless it is cold and windy your mash may not need much insulation.
Well in Minnesota winters it gets pretty cold and windy so I need something because I'm not about to start lugging a ten gallon kettle full of liquid and grain inside to mash. I do need to check my conversion time but haven't yet.

I was thinking about making a sort of jacket for my kettle, with an insulator on the inside and a water/heat resistant material on the outside
 
Let's say a guy wanted to do a step mash without removing/reinstalling the insulation every time he fired up the burner. Then what? Currently for a single infusion, I use my trusty sleeping bag. That would be a pain in the arse for a step mash.
 
Let's say a guy wanted to do a step mash without removing/reinstalling the insulation every time he fired up the burner. Then what? Currently for a single infusion, I use my trusty sleeping bag. That would be a pain in the arse for a step mash.

Doing a step mash without recirculation is difficult because you need to have the lid off the mash tun as you need to be stirring constantly and vigorously to keep the temperature near the same throughout the mash. Without stirring the mash will get way to hot at the bottom while your thermometer shows no change in the temperature.
 
Well in Minnesota winters it gets pretty cold and windy so I need something because I'm not about to start lugging a ten gallon kettle full of liquid and grain inside to mash. I do need to check my conversion time but haven't yet.

I was thinking about making a sort of jacket for my kettle, with an insulator on the inside and a water/heat resistant material on the outside

No, Minnesota winters don't get cold and windy. I've never seen my thermometer register colder than -57 nor heard reports of winds in excess of 50mph.o_O
 
Doing a step mash without recirculation is difficult

I was planning to try a step mash to incorporate a ferulic acid rest into my hefe recipe to see if I like it. I could do full volume, no sparge or do a batch sparge. I don't have a pump. Are you saying, "Be careful, it's hard to get it right" or "You're a fool for trying."
 
I was planning to try a step mash to incorporate a ferulic acid rest into my hefe recipe to see if I like it. I could do full volume, no sparge or do a batch sparge. I don't have a pump. Are you saying, "Be careful, it's hard to get it right" or "You're a fool for trying."

I won't discourage you from at least trying but I feel that you need to know that it won't be easy to keep the bottom of the mash from getting too hot so it denatures enzymes. Heating water is easy because the hotter water rises to the top, getting you a nice circulation to keep the temperature close to even. Mash is thicker and doesn't want to circulate.
 
The best thing i have used is an insulated sleeping bag. My temps during the mash only drop 1 degree maybe 2 during the winter.
 
Well in Minnesota winters it gets pretty cold and windy so I need something because I'm not about to start lugging a ten gallon kettle full of liquid and grain inside to mash. I do need to check my conversion time but haven't yet.

I was thinking about making a sort of jacket for my kettle, with an insulator on the inside and a water/heat resistant material on the outside
Walmart, and I'm sure other places, sells a pre-quilted fabric about 1/4" thick. My daughter stitched me up a jacket and cap for my electric HLT. Three layers thick, and machine washable. Velcro closure, with slits and holes for valve, element, sightglass, etc. I haven't timed it, but it heats much quicker with it's coat on. The boil kettle is next. It's not any better than a furniture blanket, but it looks nicer. Not for gas heat, of course.
 
Let's say a guy wanted to do a step mash without removing/reinstalling the insulation every time he fired up the burner. Then what? Currently for a single infusion, I use my trusty sleeping bag. That would be a pain in the arse for a step mash.
If you have an exra burner you can do a decoction mash.
 
I use 2 layers of 4mm radiator insulation foil on all my pots - cheap and very easy to wrap. You can tell it works well, the outside of the foil on full boil is room temperature.
 
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