BIAB Electric Brewing System

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NWMushroom said:
My basement is actually above ground. I have 4 large windows and with the door open there's great airflow. I don't think it's a big deal TBH.

Your mileage may vary.
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Did you buy your kettle from high gravity or did you copy their design yourself? I'm just wondering if you are using their sprinkler or came up with your own idea. I'm looking to do the exact same thing
 
NWMushroom said:
I bought their system, but added my own pump (with ball valve) and a plate chiller.
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NWMushroom,
Sorry about splitting hairs, but I'd like to restate/clarify huntb's question:

Did you purchase the whole High Gravity's BIAB system? The reason I'm asking is because, IIRC, their system includes a pump.

Did you purchase a different pump to use instead of their pump, or did you purchase an additional pump to add to your system for a different purpose?

Sorry about asking for another answer to the same question.

Thanks,
Keith
 
Hi Keith

No worries. I had my own pump (Stainless Chugger Center Pump) so I didn't buy the pump with the system. I believe their system comes with the inline version of the SS Chugger pump. There is an option to remove the pump from the order if you already have one.

I opted for the silicone tubing and I also requested stainless steel quick connectors instead of the polysulfone quick connectors that come in the standard package.

As mentioned before, I also added my own Duda Diesel plate chiller from Bobby at BrewHardware:

http://brewhardware.com/plate-chiller

If you have any more questions (or want to see any specific pictures of the setup), let me know.
 
Thanks, NWMushroom. Going back to the highgravitybrew website, I see where one can omit the pump. I will very likely purchase this setup. I planned out a controller build, but I simply don't have the energy to build from scratch. I don't mean to brag, but I have a little more money than time. Additionally, you may notice from my avatar that I'm an amateur organist. I have a pipe organ project in my basement with 500+ pipes that needs to be assembled as well - quite a money drain itself.

I'm going to post a question regarding pumps on the equipment forum so as to not hijack this thread.

Thanks, again, for clarification.
Keith
 
NWMushroom said:
I opted for the silicone tubing and I also requested stainless steel quick connectors instead of the polysulfone quick connectors that come in the standard package.
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Thanks, again. I saw where one could request the silicone tubing, but did not see where one could request the SS connectors. I imagine that one can communicate with HighGravity to make such a request. I assume that the SS connectors are a bit more expensive.

I would probably add a ball valve after the pump as output must be controlled by impeding flow after the pump as opposed to before the pump.

Keith
 
I dont have this system but I have a very similar system with the ball valve before the pump and I am able to control the flow just fine. I dont believe it has to be after the pump. Just an FYI in case that helps anyone.
 
I have the envy of your high grav system.

Still fiddling with a 32l tamale steamer and a heatstick. I enjoy seeing the wonderful build-outs that others have created or bought. How does one know of excellence if you don't see it?
 
Sippin37 said:
I dont have this system but I have a very similar system with the ball valve before the pump and I am able to control the flow just fine. I dont believe it has to be after the pump. Just an FYI in case that helps anyone.
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It depends upon the type of pump, but for centrifugal pumps like we normally see in brewing, starving the input with a valve is not recommended. Can it work? Yes, but you are increasing the likelihood of problems with cavitation, pump running dry, overheating, etc. Placing the valve on the output of the pump, instead, mitigates all of these issues.
 
kzimmer0817 said:
Thanks, again. I saw where one could request the silicone tubing, but did not see where one could request the SS connectors. I imagine that one can communicate with HighGravity to make such a request. I assume that the SS connectors are a bit more expensive.

I would probably add a ball valve after the pump as output must be controlled by impeding flow after the pump as opposed to before the pump.

Keith
Click to expand...

I emailed them with the request before ordering and they OK'd it. I then reminded them after I ordered via their ticketing system.

Drop them a line.

I'd recommend having a ball valve after the pump, too - that's what I have. I tend to keep it fully throttled during the mash (I have no issues with clogging etc as the sprinkler in the lid works to reduce flow) and then turn it down during the chilling process.

jeffmeh said:
It depends upon the type of pump, but for centrifugal pumps like we normally see in brewing, starving the input with a valve is not recommended. Can it work? Yes, but you are increasing the likelihood of problems with cavitation, pump running dry, overheating, etc. Placing the valve on the output of the pump, instead, mitigates all of these issues.
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+1. It's best practice to only impede flow going out of a centrifugal pump - never the flow going in.
 
After homebrewing in a small apartment for 3 years, I recently decided to go electric so I ordered this electric brewery system along with the therminator. The only suitable outlet in my apartment is for my electric stove. The guy at HG said, "The outlet for your stove is likely a 50A circuit with three straight blades. It will work but a 30A breaker provides better overload protection. A clothes dryer outlet is typically a 30A circuit." Should I be worried about tripping my breaker every time I brew?

It will show up in a few days and I was hoping to hear some specifics from people who also own this system. What are your typical boil volumes (percentage of total water volume), methods for washing(sparging) the grains after the mash, efficiencies, clean-up. After you have the system dialed in there anything you would change?
 
I also just bought the system and am looking forward to using it. I'm an engineer, not an electrician, but I think what he meant was that a 50A breaker would be slower and less likely to trip/overload and be [slightly?] less safe. The ideal is a 30A GFCI breaker which is more current than would be drawn unless there is a short due to water in the wrong place.

I'm also very interested in boil off rates, etc...
 
Mine is in the mail, but with the storm front going through Oklahoma it will probably get delayed. I couldn't be more excited about this system! I'll keep everybody updated if we can get this thread revived.
 
My brewery showed up in the mail. The only problem I have is the ground doesn't align with my outlet. The outlet is for my electric stove. I took the male plug apart and it looks like it should be easy to replace the ground. Is this safe? Can I buy the part at a RadioShack?

outlet.jpg


cord.jpg
 
Your outlet is for 50A load but plug is fo 30A. So it's safe to replace plug or just a ground blade. You can by such plug at HomeDepot or Lowes. I'm not sure if it's possible to buy the blade only.
 
Plugging a 30 Amp brewery into a 50 Amp circuit is dangerous. You need to protect the brewery with a 30 Amp breaker.
 
kenh said:
Plugging a 30 Amp brewery into a 50 Amp circuit is dangerous. You need to protect the brewery with a 30 Amp breaker.
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+1. If you have any wire or components not rated for 30a, you need a 30a breaker somewhere between that outlet and the brewery control panel (assuming that you still need the 50a for the stove - if not, you can replace the breaker in the main breaker panel).
 
kenh said:
Plugging a 30 Amp brewery into a 50 Amp circuit is dangerous. You need to protect the brewery with a 30 Amp breaker.
Click to expand...

What's the reasoning for that? Like in my kitchen I have a 20A circuit and outlet, how come I can plug dinky devices not rated anywhere near 20A into it?
 
I replaced the blade. I'm putting everything together on Saturday for a test run, and if all goes well I'll be brewing on Sunday.
 
meangreen83 said:
My brewery showed up in the mail. The only problem I have is the ground doesn't align with my outlet. The outlet is for my electric stove. I took the male plug apart and it looks like it should be easy to replace the ground. Is this safe? Can I buy the part at a RadioShack?
Click to expand...

Looks like you have virtually the same setup going as me. I simply switched out the the neutral blade for a straight one.

I recently bought a spa panel for GFCI protection; you can see my ongoing thread here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/help-time-gfi-protection-440903/

I also bought a 30A breaker for the dryer circuit that I need to put in the panel this week (the current breaker is a 40A breaker for some inexplicable reason), and I still need to wire up the spa panel outlet, then I'll be ready to brew more safely.

Happy brewing!
 
iijakii said:
What's the reasoning for that? Like in my kitchen I have a 20A circuit and outlet, how come I can plug dinky devices not rated anywhere near 20A into it?
Click to expand...

The purpose of a circuit breaker is to protect the wiring from overheating and causing a fire. A "dinky" device that one plugs into a 20a outlet, let's say with wire rated for 10a, could overheat and catch fire before reaching the 20a necessary to throw the breaker. Now, perhaps the device has some type of fuse or breaker internally to protect its own wire, in which case the device fuse would blow.

Putting a 30a breaker in the brewery control panel would allow it to be used safely with a 50a circuit. Without that breaker, the panel should be run on a 30a circuit.
 
It didn't go as smooth as I had imagined. I made the mistake of inviting over too many people and watching football during the brew. I live in a small apartment so it turned into a cluster f**k. It took me awhile to get the mash temp to stabilize. The temps were all over the place at first, which will most likely affect the final brew. The recipe I used required 16.5 lbs of of grain, which I sent through the homebrew shop's grinder three times. I think this may be around the limit for grain for this type of bag or brewery. At the end of the mash I had to stir almost constantly to keep enough wort circulating through the grain to fill the pump. When I pulled the bag up after the mash I found quite a few small holes. These could have been due to my vigorous stirring.

In retrospect I should have chosen an easier beer for the first attempt with a new system. All in all, I love this brewery and I can see how it will make my brew days go much smoother, but it will take a little to get used too.

I couldn't get an efficiency since my hydrometer doesn't go up to 1.081 (something I found out on brew day).
 
Has anyone here bought the 44 Qt version? It seems like everyone is pretty happy with the 62 qt system, but that is bigger than I need. I plan to do no bigger than 5 gallons batches with some 2.5 to 3 gallon batches. I emailed High Gravity and they said the 44 Qt pot was great for that range. I currently use a 44Qt pot for BIAB and am happy with that size. I guess the question is - anyone having issues with the 44 quart system? Element placement, steamer basket, etc. all fit ok?
 
blizzard said:
Has anyone here bought the 44 Qt version? It seems like everyone is pretty happy with the 62 qt system, but that is bigger than I need. I plan to do no bigger than 5 gallons batches with some 2.5 to 3 gallon batches. I emailed High Gravity and they said the 44 Qt pot was great for that range. I currently use a 44Qt pot for BIAB and am happy with that size. I guess the question is - anyone having issues with the 44 quart system? Element placement, steamer basket, etc. all fit ok?
Click to expand...

Here's one I remember seeing, https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/how-build-5-gal-110v-ebiab-kettle-304914/

I know there are more 120v guys running them as well.
 
blizzard said:
Has anyone here bought the 44 Qt version? It seems like everyone is pretty happy with the 62 qt system, but that is bigger than I need. I plan to do no bigger than 5 gallons batches with some 2.5 to 3 gallon batches. I emailed High Gravity and they said the 44 Qt pot was great for that range. I currently use a 44Qt pot for BIAB and am happy with that size. I guess the question is - anyone having issues with the 44 quart system? Element placement, steamer basket, etc. all fit ok?
Click to expand...


I'm using the High Gravity 44qt system. I pretty much only do 5gal batches, so I can't speak about 2.5 or 3gal batches. The largest grain bill I've brewed so far was 14lbs and I'm betting it will do larger grain bills with no real problems. I am more than happy with the system.
 
Wrecked said:
I'm using the High Gravity 44qt system. I pretty much only do 5gal batches, so I can't speak about 2.5 or 3gal batches. The largest grain bill I've brewed so far was 14lbs and I'm betting it will do larger grain bills with no real problems. I am more than happy with the system.
Click to expand...

Thanks wrecked!
 
I have the Highgravity system, & have two batches in fermenters. In another thread, the issue of avoiding aeration during sparge/mash was mentioned. Anyone have links/info re: this issue? The nozzle setup in this system would seem to promote aeration prior to boil.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
Hot side aeration! It is unlikely to cause any detectable (taste) issues in your configuration and scale, but it is a matter of degree, moreso for something like a light beer than a malt or hop-forward one. I wouldn't worry about it unless you can perceive it in the finished product, which, again, is not likely.
 
Alright HBT, I need your help. I am planning to get the high gravity system. Currently I BIAB with heat sticks in a 44-QT pot that does not have a steamer basket. That size has worked well. I generally brew 5 gallon batches. Occasionally I will brew a 3 gallon batch (mainly to make starter wort) and sometimes I brew a 5-gallon batch with a huge grain bill (up to 24 pounds of grain). Questions:

Is the 44-Qt High Gravity system too small with the steamer basket to do huge grain bills? What is the largest grain bill that basket can hold?

Is the 62-Qt system too big to run a 2.5 to 3-gallon batch? Not sure how many gallons are needed to cover the element.

Having to choose between the two, I can probably forgo making the starter wort, but I'd really like to "have it all" if that's possible.

Any opinions on these issues? Thanks.
 
I have the 62-qt system and would not want to brew a big 5 gallon batch in a smaller pot. Do you make all grain biab starters? I'm fairly certain you could make a dme starter without the basket in the 62-qt pot. But, I would personally just use a stove at that point. I'll measure the volume to the top of my element if nobody else replies soon.
 
shellerb said:
I have the 62-qt system and would not want to brew a big 5 gallon batch in a smaller pot. Do you make all grain biab starters? I'm fairly certain you could make a dme starter without the basket in the 62-qt pot. But, I would personally just use a stove at that point. I'll measure the volume to the top of my element if nobody else replies soon.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the thought. I brew all grain BIAB starters. I make 3 gallons at a time so it's always available when I need it. If the 62-qt system is too big for that, I could switch to stovetop DME starters or just brew up an extra gallon of whatever I'm making at the moment. But, I like the way I do it now, so if I can keep doing that, I will.

Thanks again for your thoughts on big beers. That really helps.
 

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