BIAB Brewing (with pics)

[ChrisL_]

A small batch in a cold garage will be tricky to hold temperature, BUT, that is not saying it won't work. Conversion can happen very quickly! For small batch brewing, I would mash inside in a warm oven to hold temp., and boil in the garage, or for that matter do it all inside in frosty canada. Towels may not be the best insulation, perhaps zip an old winter parka around the kettle next time.

BIAB typically relies on the mass of grain to hold temp.

Another wild idea I just had would be to mash in your smaller kettle inside your larger kettle acting like a double boiler, this would reduce temp. swing and loss and allow you to gently heat the mash....but add difficulty

The double boiler is interesting, but another level of work which I am hoping to avoid by choosing about BIAB. I will do the sleeping bag wrap and hope it turns out. I have heard of not crying over spilt milk, but what about ruined beer?

 

[ChrisL_]

Also... My advice is to buy the biggest pot you can afford and make the biggest batches it will permit. Airspace is just the absence of beer. I realized quickly that it takes no more effort to brew 5, 10 or 20 gallons than it does to brew 2.5 gallons.

I am not worried about the extra work of a larger batch. I just really don't drink quickly enough and am too old for big parties
The other thing is that I am actually looking forward to the actual brewing process, plus I want to try many different styles and recipes. Having said that, I am giong with a 36qt pot which should allow me to move to a 5gallon batch if desired. Maybe I just need to start drinking more

 

[slcdawg]

I did my second BIAB last night, the Saison kit from Northern Brewer. This time around I got 93% and overshot my OG by 16 points! 1.072 instead of 1.052. Had to add quite a bit of water. I found this hard to believe and measured twice.

The difference between this and my first batch was I mashed for 90 min instead of 60 and sparged with 1 gallon (in addition to a mash out and squeezing).

I def need to work on consistency.

 

[wilserbrewer]

This time around I got 93% and overshot my OG by 16 points! 1.072 instead of 1.052.

Wow...I'm short for words...1.072 is a lot of points and 93%...wow.

 

[ChrisL_]

Well my first ever batch is in the fermenter . A BIAB Punkin Ale (thanks Reno_Envy for the great recipe). It was a busy day as I scrambled around trying not to forget anything. But it worked out. I had about 75 efficiency and it is in the fermentor now. My one worry before starting was not a big deal. I wondered about holding my mash temp but I wrapped my pot in a couple of blankets and held it within 1 degree until the last 5 minutes or so.
Here are a few pics of my brew day.

 

[SFGiantsFan925]

Any idea what would contribute to a "grain" aftertaste??

I have brewed 4 BIAB batches now, and my last 2 (EdWorts Bavarian Hefe, and a Belgian Blonde). Both have a "grain" aftertaste. The beer tastes great, but its almost like a very prominent grain flavor in the finish that seems to last quite a long time. I dont get this in any of the commercial beers I have tried. Not sure what would make this. All my beers have finished under 1.020, around 1.014 or so, and I have been getting low 70% eff.. So, I dont really know what it would be.

Is it due to the Wheat used in the recipes? My Pale Ale using the same BIAB method doesnt have the flavor. Unless its just covered up by the hops in it.

Any idea what would cause this??

 

[slc12312]

I like it. Is that a 10 gallon Blickman (on the original post)? What suggestions does anyone have in terms of basket and brew pot for 10 gallon batches. I'm thinking a 20 gallon pot, but don't know about the basket. Would that Bayou Classic model B144 be large enough to hold the grain bill for a mash? I'm completely new to this, so I really don't know. I will of course be starting with 5 gallon batches, until I know just what in the heck I am doing.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Yes a 20 gallon pot is a nice size for 10 gal BIAB. Using a basket is optional IMHO, I prefer to just use a bag, I have never used a basket and have done many BIAB batches.

 

[FlyDoctor]

Any idea what would contribute to a "grain" aftertaste??

I have brewed 4 BIAB batches now, and my last 2 (EdWorts Bavarian Hefe, and a Belgian Blonde). Both have a "grain" aftertaste. The beer tastes great, but its almost like a very prominent grain flavor in the finish that seems to last quite a long time. I dont get this in any of the commercial beers I have tried. Not sure what would make this. All my beers have finished under 1.020, around 1.014 or so, and I have been getting low 70% eff.. So, I dont really know what it would be.

Is it due to the Wheat used in the recipes? My Pale Ale using the same BIAB method doesnt have the flavor. Unless its just covered up by the hops in it.

Any idea what would cause this??

Not sure I'd this applies - but when I have tastes what I would describe as grain - the beer was young/green - and it dissipated with time in the keg.

Also, I assume you are no just tasting freshness. What is your base grain? Perhaps a different base will change that? Have all the grain-ey batches been with the same recipe? I assume the wheat you use in a pale ale is in the 5% range - and I can't imagine this doing it, but perhaps if there is more wheat it could.

 

[BeerFather Brewing]

I have used a 15g pot for some normal gravity 10g batches. Pushes the limits, frankly, but it did work. A 20g pot is just a dream for me at this point....

 

[usafbeerlover]

For the grain aftertaste I suggest using a Secondary. Not only did I notice a way clearer beer, the taste cleaned up as well. My primaries would have excessive trub which even being very careful would end up w/ mass sediment during bottling time even with cold crashing
Good luck

 

[djavet]

Yes a 20 gallon pot is a nice size for 10 gal BIAB. Using a basket is optional IMHO, I prefer to just use a bag, I have never used a basket and have done many BIAB batches.

And a 17 us gal/65 liters?
I just buy this brew pot with gaz burner to jump in AG after years of partial mash/extract. 10 gal is realist or it's better to size down the pre-boil volume?

Dom

 

[ssdunn25]

Ok so here is a question for everyone. I have been looking into switching over to all grain from extract brewing for almost a year now and i think i have decided on a modified BIAB setup. My plan is to take my turkey fryer kettle and cut out a hole in the bottom and intall a false bottom to be my mashtun. I have a keggle that I will be using as my kettle, and made the opening large enough for my mashtun to fit through. The frame will simply be a weldless build extending a few feet above the keggle so I can install a pully to lift the mashtun from the kettle. I will use a pump to recirculate the wort into the mashtun to form a decent grain bed. My question here is has anyone seen a build like this before? I havent come accross anything like it other then the traditional BIAB setup. Anyways tell me what your thoughts are with this.

 

[Stauffbier]

Any idea what would contribute to a "grain" aftertaste??

I have brewed 4 BIAB batches now, and my last 2 (EdWorts Bavarian Hefe, and a Belgian Blonde). Both have a "grain" aftertaste. The beer tastes great, but its almost like a very prominent grain flavor in the finish that seems to last quite a long time. I dont get this in any of the commercial beers I have tried. Not sure what would make this. All my beers have finished under 1.020, around 1.014 or so, and I have been getting low 70% eff.. So, I dont really know what it would be.

Is it due to the Wheat used in the recipes? My Pale Ale using the same BIAB method doesnt have the flavor. Unless its just covered up by the hops in it.

Any idea what would cause this??

Back when I first started all grain (also BIAB) I got this on my first amber ale batch. After a lot of brewing experience I later went back to look at the recipe, and it occured to me that the IBU's were kind of low. So I brewed it again with higher IBU's and it balanced it out nicely.

 

[SFGiantsFan925]

Back when I first started all grain (also BIAB) I got this on my first amber ale batch. After a lot of brewing experience I later went back to look at the recipe, and it occured to me that the IBU's were kind of low. So I brewed it again with higher IBU's and it balanced it out nicely.

I get that, but in a sense, its not really solving the problem. It seems that the underlying problem could still be there, but the grainy/ husky flavor would instead be "covered up" by the IBU's/hops. In a Hefe, you dont want high IBU, or a lot of hop flavors. I dont get the flavor on the initial taste, but is after swallowing, in the finish. And it lingers.

I have been doing reading on this, and all signs are pretty much pointing to my crush. It seems I may have milled it oo fine, which would have created a lot of powdery grain to make it into my mash. After reading, this leads to a very grainy/ husky flavor.

At my LHBS, they have 2 mills. One with a tighter mil, the other less tight. I ran the grain through the tighter mill twice, thinking I would get higher efficiency, but instead, Im pretty sure it just gave me this off flavo, and only a few points higher on eff.. So, Ill try it again, but only crushing once, and see if that makes for a cleaner profile.

This is all the fun of brewing! Troubleshooting and perfecting the process. Cheers!!

 

[Antler]

Ok so here is a question for everyone. I have been looking into switching over to all grain from extract brewing for almost a year now and i think i have decided on a modified BIAB setup. My plan is to take my turkey fryer kettle and cut out a hole in the bottom and intall a false bottom to be my mashtun. I have a keggle that I will be using as my kettle, and made the opening large enough for my mashtun to fit through. The frame will simply be a weldless build extending a few feet above the keggle so I can install a pully to lift the mashtun from the kettle. I will use a pump to recirculate the wort into the mashtun to form a decent grain bed. My question here is has anyone seen a build like this before? I havent come accross anything like it other then the traditional BIAB setup. Anyways tell me what your thoughts are with this.

This idea is fairly common, but most people just use the basket that comes with the turkey fryer, instead of another pot inside the kettle.

What your calling a "mash tun" is really a mash tun. Your just replacing your grain bag with another pot. You could just use a basket, or drill ALOT of holes in the turkey pot. Your gonna want a lot of flow through that grain, and your still gonna need a grain bag inside.

Just a lot of extra work I think, when you could do exactly want with just the grain bag in the keggle.

 

[ssdunn25]

OK that's pretty much what I needed to hear. I have enough equipment for a three vessel setup, I was just looking for something that would be smaller and still be able to produce a decent amount per batch since I live in an apartment and only have a patio space.

 

[Stauffbier]

I have been doing reading on this, and all signs are pretty much pointing to my crush. It seems I may have milled it oo fine, which would have created a lot of powdery grain to make it into my mash. After reading, this leads to a very grainy/ husky flavor.



This is all the fun of brewing! Troubleshooting and perfecting the process. Cheers!!

I'm not sure about crush. I use a Corona mill and I crush pretty fine. I get a lot of flour, and I have an extremely low run-off. I can't say I've ever noticed an overly grainy character in my beer (outside of the batch I mentioned in my previous post). I do like a lot of malt character though, which might be part of the problem you're having. Maybe you're just not a fan of the malt. It could also have something to do with the particular grains you're using. Some leave more bicuity, grainy, malt flavors than others. What base malt do you use typically?

I agree with perfecting and troubleshooting as being part of what makes the hobby fun. The biggest variable in that is the fact we all have different tastes. I'm sure you'll tweak out your brew to be exactly what you want it to be.

 

[SFGiantsFan925]

As you can see from a previous post its a rather simple recipe. Here it is:

7 lbs Wheat
4 lbs. Pilsner
.75 oz. Hallertauer (45 min.)
.25 Hallertauer (15 min.)
Wyeast 3068

Fermented only in primary, for about 3 weeks, at temps ranging from 59-68 (room temp). Tried to keep the temps at 64 in the carboy, with the fermometer on the carboy.

The beer has a very strong clove flavor with little if any banana flavor/ aroma. I would have like a more balanced clove/ banana flavor. The grain flavor is coming through only really in the finish. Its a very drinkable and good beer. Wife and friends like it, but I am getting the strong after taste. Just wanted to know how to prevent the flavor in the future.

 

[SFGiantsFan925]

Here is what I found in a guide for troubleshooting off flavors in a beer:

HUSKY-GRAINY

CHARACTERISTICS: A taste spectrum that includes astringent tastes, cereal or grainy tastes, and husky tastes. Generally the grainy notes may or may not be desirable, depending on the style, but the husky astringent tastes are undesired. Husky-grainy is generally perceived as a taste, although grain notes can be present in the aroma.

CAUSES: Tannins from grain husks causes the astringent huskiness, while the graininess comes from the starches in the barley malt.

INCREASE DUE TO PROCESS: Excessive grain crushing; powdering the malt during crushing; sparge temperature in excess of 170 degrees; excessive sparging; high pH during sparging (above 6.0); boiling grains; improper decoction mashing; improper wetting of grist during mash-in; direct-firing of mash tun without proper stirring; old beer; too many salts in water (sodium, magnesium, sulfate, chloride); iron in water.

DECREASE DUE TO PROCESS: Proper crush; slow mash-in; lautering temperatures between 164-170 degrees; monitoring pH of runoff and adding gypsum to keep pH below 6; proper sparge amounts; temperature controlled or infusion mash; steeping adjunct grains (such as crystal malt added to extract brews) below 170 degrees instead of bringing to boil; water appropriate to style; iron-free water.

EXAMPLES: Grainy (appropriate): Stoneys, many Midwestern regional lagers

Unless it was in my water (too high/ low pH, or too many salts), it kinda points to my crush. My mash temp was right on. If I remember correctly, i fired the mash tun for a minute or two, to increase my temps, but was stirring at the same time. Can BIAB be considered "excessive sparging"?? I dont do batch or dunk sparges with my BIAB.

 

[Mysticmead]

As you can see from a previous post its a rather simple recipe. Here it is:

7 lbs Wheat
4 lbs. Pilsner
.75 oz. Hallertauer (45 min.)
.25 Hallertauer (15 min.)
Wyeast 3068

Fermented only in primary, for about 3 weeks, at temps ranging from 59-68 (room temp). Tried to keep the temps at 64 in the carboy, with the fermometer on the carboy.

The beer has a very strong clove flavor with little if any banana flavor/ aroma. I would have like a more balanced clove/ banana flavor. The grain flavor is coming through only really in the finish. Its a very drinkable and good beer. Wife and friends like it, but I am getting the strong after taste. Just wanted to know how to prevent the flavor in the future.

Are you boiling for 90 minutes? If not try that when using pilsner malt. You could also switch to pale malt and stick to 60 minutes

 

[Antler]

OK that's pretty much what I needed to hear. I have enough equipment for a three vessel setup, I was just looking for something that would be smaller and still be able to produce a decent amount per batch since I live in an apartment and only have a patio space.

You can do 10g BIAB in a keggle!

 

[Brewitt]

I have been routinely doing 10 gallon brews in a keggle. If the brew is over about 5% ABV I withhold about 2 gallons of water from the mash and do a sparge of my grain at the end, adding that back to the keggle after the grain removal. Has been working out great. Just did a 6.7% ABV IPA. I split the grain into two bags making it a little easier to lift out after the mash. I sparge each one separately in my nested bucket arrangement. After dumping my sparge back into the keggle I finished the boil with 11 gallons of wort. Ended up with about 9.5 gallons in bottles after losing some to trub and whole leaf dry hopping.

I'm planning a really big stout (9.5% ABV), so for that I only do 7 gallons. Even that takes over 30 lbs of grain.

 

[Stauffbier]

Unless it was in my water (too high/ low pH, or too many salts), it kinda points to my crush. My mash temp was right on. If I remember correctly, i fired the mash tun for a minute or two, to increase my temps, but was stirring at the same time. Can BIAB be considered "excessive sparging"?? I dont do batch or dunk sparges with my BIAB.

pH and tannin extraction was my next prediction. I don't consider a fine crush as an issue unless pH is off. If conditions for tannin extraction exist, then a fine crush will compound the problem. I definitely wouldn't consider BIAB as excessive sparging. That occurs more with fly sparging as the pH changes and the gravity drops. You really don't get that with BIAB.

Do you treat your water or check mash pH?

 

[MMJfan]

pH and tannin extraction was my next prediction. I don't consider a fine crush as an issue unless pH is off. If conditions for tannin extraction exist, then a fine crush will compound the problem. I definitely wouldn't consider BIAB as excessive sparging. That occurs more with fly sparging as the pH changes and the gravity drops. You really don't get that with BIAB.

Do you treat your water or check mash pH?

I was wondering if fine crush was an issue. From all I've heard and read regarding BIAB, the finer the crush the better. I have a carona mill I use to grind my grains and my crush is always powdery/floury and I have never had any issues with grainy tasting brews.

 

[Mysticmead]

I was wondering if fine crush was an issue. From all I've heard and read regarding BIAB, the finer the crush the better. I have a carona mill I use to grind my grains and my crush is always powdery/floury and I have never had any issues with grainy tasting brews.

I crush fine and don't experience any off flavors or tannin extraction. PH is the biggest factor in tannin extraction.

Now is did notice in the recipe posted, Pilsner malt was used. that can have a grainy flavor on its own. For a hefe wheat/pale works great and less likely to have a grainy flavor.

 

[Brewitt]

I do a double crush at my LHBS and it works out great with no off flavors. I do end up with a fair amount of trub since I have been doing that but it doesn't seem to be hurting anything and it definitely helps the efficiency.

 

[SFGiantsFan925]

I am thinking that if I didnt use the Pilsner malt, went with the pale malt, and still did a double crush, I would probably have abetter finish on the beer. Ill try the recipe again once this keg kicks and see if thats it. Never worked with Pilsner malt before. i did do a 90 minute boil too. So, we shall see.

 

[hiphopperforever]

Hello and thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. After ten plus years absence from brewing I got back into it last month and have done three BIAB batches. I started with an english brown ale, am drinking Biermuncher's Black Pearl Porter (wow that is good) and am fermenting a Stone Arrogant Bastard Clone. Each batch has progressed higher and higher in original gravity.

What is the secret to really big high gravity beers? I am brewing in a keggle doing five gallon batches. The Stone clone was 1.066 OG. Can you go much higher than that? Just wondering if its a matter of a longer sparge, or getting the last drop out of the squeezed bag. I was wondering if some kind of a press to get the liquid out of the bag would help.

I am guessing this may have been answered before, but there are a lot of pages in this thread and there doesn't seem to be a way to search contents of a thread.

 

[Brewitt]

hiphopperforever: My Old Rasputin clone has an OG of about 1.090 which I hit without much problem. I do a 90 minute boil so start out with extra volume and my efficiency is about 70%. I find a drop in efficiency at these high OGs. Nevertheless, I'm sure you can get to 1.1 without losing too much.