BIAB Brewing (with pics)

[Mysticmead]

I have another BIAB question. I generally use kits for brewing and I have been doing all extract kits up until my last brew which was my first BIAB. But that was a recipe I found on the interweb. I was wondering if I could just order the AG kits from places like NB and brew them using the BIAB method?

yep... BIAB is just another method of AG brewing. no different than a person that fly sparges, no different than a batch sparger.. Of course, as with ANY method of All Grain brewing, you will need to learn your setup and learn what YOU need to adjust for the process and recipe.

 

[thughes]

Yes. BIAB is AG brewing therefore any AG kit will work with any method of AG brewing.

 

[MMJfan]

Very good. That's what I figured, but I just wanted to make sure. Thanks guys!

 

[weeple2000]

Will mash efficiency improve if I use something longer to stir? Like maybe a 5 gallon paint bucket stick? I have been using a large spoon that is slotted. How much should I be stirring?

 

[Mysticmead]

Will mash efficiency improve if I use something longer to stir? Like maybe a 5 gallon paint bucket stick? I have been using a large spoon that is slotted. How much should I be stirring?

everyone has their opinions on stirring and all I can really tell you is to do what works best for you. For me, I stir when I dough in and I stir when raising the heat to mash out after a 90 minute mash. that's it. I get 75-80% efficiency doing it this way with my average sitting at 77%. I also don't adjust the heat during the mash (except when doing a decoction mash) any other time besides mash out. it's what works for ME.

Once you find what works for you, stick with it. Even if someone tells you that you're doing it wrong. if it makes great beer it can't be wrong.

 

[jmd1971]

I'd recommend a large paddle but depends on the size of the vessel. As long as you can stir well to break up clumps, evenly distribute the temp, etc it shouldn't matter. Personally, I stir every 20 mins & check the temp in case I have to add any heat but its not mandatory. Recommended though...

 

[jmd1971]

Amen to MysticMead! Go with what works for YOU regardless of whether others disagree. As long as you are happy with the end result, that's all that should matter.

 

[weeple2000]

I just thought I should ask. I have done 2 batches of BIAB for my all grain attempts thus far. The first batch was a SMASH IPA, and I didn't record how many lbs of grain I milled, so I am not positive what my efficiency was. The second time I did the same as the first, full volume BIAB no sparge, but forgot to raise the temp to 170 for mash out. My efficiency using the calculator online the second time was 57%, which seems very low. I am just getting into this, and I think improvements will still be made to my process. I am using the mill at my LHBS and I suspect I may be getting lower efficiency because of that, but still, lower than 60% seems very low. I sqeezed the bag what I thought was a decent amount. I'm not sure if I could've gotten anything else out of it.

I mashed 16 lbs of grain, so I suspect that part of the efficiency lost may be due to the larger grain bill. I also read that mashing out at 170 doesn't effect efficiency that much. From another poster's advice in my personal thread, I am reading this thread. However, I am only on page 10 or so of the 90+ pages, so if there is anything important past that it will be a couple weeks before I get to it.

Also, the first time I did this I milled my grain twice. The second time (when I did 16 lbs) I only milled once. So it is possible a lower efficiency is due to this as well.

 

[jmd1971]

Probably a combination of only milling once & the larger grain bill is the culprit. With a double crush & grain bills around 11-12#, I've consistently gotten efficiencies in the 80's - some in the low '90's! However, when the grain bill gets higher, my efficiency dropped down into the high '60's-low '70's. For higher grain bills, you probably want to do a sparge on the side & add back to the kettle...

 

[Fastmetal]

I have another BIAB question. I generally use kits for brewing and I have been doing all extract kits up until my last brew which was my first BIAB. But that was a recipe I found on the interweb. I was wondering if I could just order the AG kits from places like NB and brew them using the BIAB method?

Yup.

 

[Chris7687]

I just did a 15lb grain (doubled milled), mashed it the whole time at 154, no mash out, squeezed the grain good, and got a 76% effic. Definitely believe from my experience that the double mill is a MUST with BIAB. Haven't ever done mash out temp raises as I am afraid to burn the bag on the bottom. Also, never have done any sparging.

 

[Riseabovebb]

I just did a 15lb grain (doubled milled), mashed it the whole time at 154, no mash out, squeezed the grain good, and got a 76% effic. Definitely believe from my experience that the double mill is a MUST with BIAB. Haven't ever done mash out temp raises as I am afraid to burn the bag on the bottom. Also, never have done any sparging.

I forgot to mash-out one day and had horrible efficiency, ~56% if I remember off hand. I think the mash-out really helps, and I have not burned my bag yet.

When I mash-out, I kind of 'roll the bag'. By that I mean I grab two opposite sides of the bag and gently lift one side up while lower the otherside and then lift the other side up while lowering the other. It keeps the bag moving and helps stir up the grains a bit.

All that said, I double mill, stir the mash very well, mash-out and have never gotten 70% or higher BHE. I'm consistently in the mid to high 60s. I use bottled water, usually deer park or poland springs. Maybe the water chemistry/pH is holding my efficiency down.

 

[jmd1971]

How are you measuring the sample? A refractometer? Have you calibrated it lately? Maybe you're getting false readings. Also, are you measuring you pre-boil gravity accurately? Those two data points will affect your efficiency...

 

[weeple2000]

For those of you getting lower readings for efficiency, are you using the mill at your local store? Apparently there is a conspiracy that they set them for a poor crush.

I found a calculator that measures efficiency and used a sample that was adjusted for temperature from a hydrometer as the input along with the amount and type of grain I used.

Also, if I am brewing 5.5 gallons expecting to lose .5 to trub, do I enter my batch size as 5 or 5.5 into the calculator?

 

[jb1677]

I just completed my first BIAB using EdWorts Bee Cave porter recipe. I mashed just under 14lbs in 8.5 gallons of water in my 10 gallon pot - it was full!. I ended up with 7.5 gallons of wort after squeezing the piss out of the bag, BeerSmith says I hit 76% efficiency pre boil. I did pull the bag after an hour, raised the wort temp and then put the bag in for a 10 minute mashout @170. I used a round grill grate above the kettle to hold the bag while draining, and did I mention I squeezed?

I also learned a few lessons, first don't underestimate the weight of the bag, it's heavy, somewhat awkward and I really should have had another set of hands if only to slide the grate below the bag. Also hitting mash temp is tough,, different calculators gave me different starting temps. Before filling the bag I panicked about having enough space and pulled .5 gallons out. I ended up being low on temp and used that water (after heating in microwave) to help hit my mash temp. Next time I will probably hold back a gallon and have one gallong of boiling water and one of cold ready to adjust temp. I also learned that 14lbs is the absolute limit with my rig, I actually lost a little wort when I put my lid on since it sits about .25 inchesintonthe kettle!

All in all a good day, I have 5.5 gallons of 1.064 beer in the fermenter and used no extact for the first time ever when brewing.

 

[msa8967]

I also learned a few lessons, first don't underestimate the weight of the bag, it's heavy, somewhat awkward and I really should have had another set of hands if only to slide the grate below the bag.

I boought a white plastic food grade bucket from Walmart (5 gallon size are less than $3 in the paint department. I drilled about 20-30 holes in the bottom of this bucket. I lift the bag into the bucket allowing it to drain as I slide the grate onto the top of the kettle.

 

[Uconnrh11]

I boought a white plastic food grade bucket from Walmart (5 gallon size are less than $3 in the paint department. I drilled about 20-30 holes in the bottom of this bucket. I lift the bag into the bucket allowing it to drain as I slide the grate onto the top of the kettle.

Love this idea. Definitely going to use it.

 

[msa8967]

You can also use icing buckets from your local bakery if you don't want to go to wally world. I also will open the top of the bag and stretch it around the opening of the bucket to do some sparging in case my volume is low.

 

[Antler]

I just completed my first BIAB using EdWorts Bee Cave porter recipe. I mashed just under 14lbs in 8.5 gallons of water in my 10 gallon pot - it was full!. I ended up with 7.5 gallons of wort after squeezing the piss out of the bag, BeerSmith says I hit 76% efficiency pre boil. I did pull the bag after an hour, raised the wort temp and then put the bag in for a 10 minute mashout @170. I used a round grill grate above the kettle to hold the bag while draining, and did I mention I squeezed?

I also learned a few lessons, first don't underestimate the weight of the bag, it's heavy, somewhat awkward and I really should have had another set of hands if only to slide the grate below the bag. Also hitting mash temp is tough,, different calculators gave me different starting temps. Before filling the bag I panicked about having enough space and pulled .5 gallons out. I ended up being low on temp and used that water (after heating in microwave) to help hit my mash temp. Next time I will probably hold back a gallon and have one gallong of boiling water and one of cold ready to adjust temp. I also learned that 14lbs is the absolute limit with my rig, I actually lost a little wort when I put my lid on since it sits about .25 inchesintonthe kettle!

All in all a good day, I have 5.5 gallons of 1.064 beer in the fermenter and used no extact for the first time ever when brewing.

Congrats on the brew, I'm sure it will be great. I've never mashed 14lbs in my 10g kettle but I've done 12lbs. I wouldn't suggest leaving out the gallon of water. Just get you water 5 to 6 degrees higher than your desired mash temps before dough in.

With my Irish red ales I usually want a mash temp of 155. So I heat my water to 161 degrees, stir in my grains and temps are spot on.

 

[C-Rider]

Just did a Black Am. IPA. 4.8 lbs grain for a 1.75 gallon planned post boil vol.

I use a 5 gallon Colman Cooler to mash.

Mashed for 45 min w/about 1.8 gallons of water with the 2 row, then added the dark grains in the last 15 minutes.

Drained the cooler and slipped the bag into a collendar and using 2 coffee cups squeezed every last drop out.

Then put the bag back in the cooler and slowly added 1.25 gallons of water at about 170*. Did the same squeezing as above.

Wound up w/about 2.75 gallons pre boil and 1.7 post boil.

Funny thing this time this calculator http://www.brewersfriend.com/brewhouse-efficiency/ gave me 91% efficiency . The last time I did same brew w/o the sparge I only got about 70% but I don't think I squeezed every last drop out that time.

Beer Smith estimated OG at 73 and I got 71 w/my refractometer. I'm a happy camper.

 

[Brewitt]

Yep. BIAB is great. A few obstacles to overcome. Biggest ones are having sufficient volume and dealing with pulling and squeezing the bag. Most recently I have done the holes in a bucket routine but my drilled bucket sits nicely in another bucket with space for wort underneath. So, I just lift the bag into the bucket, squeeze by pressing. Set aside and dump the wort into the pot. If I have to little space in my pot for everything to mash, I leave out some of the water during the mash and then sparge right through the grain in the drilled bucket. Works great.

Now mash on temp is a whole other story.....

 

[C-Rider]

This is the way I get the last few drops out of my grain.

 

[mrgstiffler]

Yep. BIAB is great. A few obstacles to overcome. Biggest ones are having sufficient volume and dealing with pulling and squeezing the bag. Most recently I have done the holes in a bucket routine but my drilled bucket sits nicely in another bucket with space for wort underneath. So, I just lift the bag into the bucket, squeeze by pressing. Set aside and dump the wort into the pot. If I have to little space in my pot for everything to mash, I leave out some of the water during the mash and then sparge right through the grain in the drilled bucket. Works great.

Now mash on temp is a whole other story.....

If you mash in a separate vessel, you're going to lose temperature from transferring on top of the equalized temp from the grains and strike water. I lose an extra 4-5F when I transfer from my kettle to the cooler.

 

[weeple2000]

If I sparge in a separate 5 gallon pot, how much water should I use for it? Should it be heated to 170? Is there a calculator that will help me hit my mash temp with a volume that isn't full volume biab? I have been using the online tools for my brewing.

It seems like this would be an improvement to the process.

If I do this, should I heat the mashed grain to 170 for mash out before the sparge?

 

[Halbrust]

This is the way I get the last few drops out of my grain.

Barefoot brewing. Love it!

 

[Mysticmead]

If I sparge in a separate 5 gallon pot, how much water should I use for it? Should it be heated to 170? Is there a calculator that will help me hit my mash temp with a volume that isn't full volume biab? I have been using the online tools for my brewing.

It seems like this would be an improvement to the process.

If I do this, should I heat the mashed grain to 170 for mash out before the sparge?

its not really an improvement to the process unless you can't do full volume mashing due to pot size limitations. it's just another pot to clean out after you're done. as far as tools to determine strike temps.. most tools out there allow for the amount of water used to be included. If you have an android based phone check out Brewzor pro (its free). the strike tool in there works great. it allows for your input of water volume, grain weight and grain temp as well as desired mash temp.. fairly accurate too.

 

[weeple2000]

its not really an improvement to the process unless you can't do full volume mashing due to pot size limitations. it's just another pot to clean out after you're done. as far as tools to determine strike temps.. most tools out there allow for the amount of water used to be included. If you have an android based phone check out Brewzor pro (its free). the strike tool in there works great. it allows for your input of water volume, grain weight and grain temp as well as desired mash temp.. fairly accurate too.

How about for higher gravities? Like, say I'm mashing 16 lbs of grain in an 11 gallon pot. Our if it was even more gain than that...

I've only done a couple biab's so I'm looking for advice, the second attempt I took better records but didn't break 60% efficiency for a 16 lb grain bill. I also forgot to heat for mash out.

Thanks for the app advice, I have android.

 

[jmd1971]

I think for higher grain bills, you really need to sparge. Too many residual sugars remain in the grain. At least that's been my experience. Don't mash with as much water, then heat water on the side to 168-170 & sparge until at your expected pre boil volume.

 

[Mysticmead]

How about for higher gravities? Like, say I'm mashing 16 lbs of grain in an 11 gallon pot. Our if it was even more gain than that...

I've only done a couple biab's so I'm looking for advice, the second attempt I took better records but didn't break 60% efficiency for a 16 lb grain bill. I also forgot to heat for mash out.

Thanks for the app advice, I have android.

crush the grains extra fine. I have my barley crusher set to .034 (factory is .039) and for a large grain bill I run it through twice. mash it for 90 and do a mash out. Then squeeze the bag for all the sweet wort. doing that I still break 70% on larger grain bills.

that said its really up to you and how you do with your equipment. if you want to do a dunk sparge or even pour some hot water through the grains its up to you. if doing that I would hold 2-3 gallons back for that purpose (maybe even have some extra hot water on hand just in case you need to add more to reach your boil volume)

 

[MMJfan]

its not really an improvement to the process unless you can't do full volume mashing due to pot size limitations. it's just another pot to clean out after you're done. as far as tools to determine strike temps.. most tools out there allow for the amount of water used to be included. If you have an android based phone check out Brewzor pro (its free). the strike tool in there works great. it allows for your input of water volume, grain weight and grain temp as well as desired mash temp.. fairly accurate too.

This is my problem. I only have a 7.5 gal. kettle and in my first attempt at BIAB, not only did I not have my grains double milled (found out after the fact that this is recommended) but I was told to just top off my fermenter with tap water to get my desired 5 gal. The result was a very weak and watered down version of the beer I was hoping to brew.

I have since learned that double milling is a must and I have also come across a 5 gal. kettle that I am going to use to sparge with. I'm going to mash in about 6.5 gal of water in my larger kettle just like I did in my first batch, and then I'm going to go ahead and sparge the grains in about 3 gal. of water in the 5 gal. kettle and then combine the two back into the 7.5 gal kettle for the boil and see how that turns out.