BIAB 2.5 gallon return brew

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cajunrph

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I returned to brewing Sunday after almost a decade hiatus due to a divorce and moves. I'm brewing in the kitchen as I lost my 50X40 shop in the divorce and decided to start with a smaller 2.5-gallon batch. The current wife doesn't drink beer so a 5-gallon batch would take a while to consume.

I didn't hit my target volume. I started with 2.5 gallons of mash water with a strike temp of 163. The temp held at 151 indicated by a remote BBQ thermometer in the center of the mash. I sparged with 1 gallon of water. I sparged with 170-degree water, one gallon. I know my volumes are off. I should have had a pre-boil volume of 3.75 but only had around 3 gallons, after giving the bag a good squeeze. Looking back my total water was only 3.5 gallons. I chose 2.5 gallons mash water from the 1-1.5qt/lb of grains. I had a total bill of 6.3 grains. My SG pre-boil was 1.046, the target was 1.045. My OG (after the boil) was 1.062 target was 1.067. I had a final volume of around 2 gallons. How much Mash water and sparge water should be used. Also, my bag wasn't big enough for the kettle I had. The opening of the bag was too small. I have another on order. I had one slight dough ball when I took the spent grains out.

I also had issues keeping the boil rolling without having to keep the lid on the pot. Which would cause the wort to foam up and in turn deposit the hops in a ring above the wort line on the kettle walls. I'll use a different burner and see if it makes a difference. The pot I have has a thick metal bottom to it. I might get a thinner pot and see if it helps with the boil. Or does it even matter?

I used an entire package of Nottingham yeast. The fermentation took off within hours after pitching and continued for about 48 hours or so. This morning, about 60 hours after the boil, the airlock has equalized. No activity at all. The beer is clearing up. I had a krausen the first day. It faded away by this morning with just a few patches on the surface of the beer. The temps in the room are around 70. I'll let it clear through the weekend and bottle it depending on the SG. Maybe the minimal Karusen was due to the less than vigours boil? Any thoughts?

I shall not be deterred by the subpar return brew session. I'll brew again soon.
 
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Welcome back to the obsession! Sounds like an eventful first brew day back! Keep at, it at the end of the day you'll have beer!
 
My wife doesn't drink either. I do ten to twelve liter batches on the stove top in a five gallon kettle.

Leaving the lid on partially to maintain a boil isn't a bad thing to do. If steam is getting out so is potential dms.

Hope your beer turns out great. Keep us posted!
 
Welcome back to the obsession! Sounds like an eventful first brew day back! Keep at, it at the end of the day you'll have beer!
It was eventful. I'll knock the brewing rust off and line out my system. I need to get out my grain mill fron the attic. And some bottles. If I was oblivous to my targets all of the days events wouldn't matter. I started at 6:00ish pm sunday evening. Completely done by 10pm. Clean up, brew day notes, and all. Not too bad for a decade long hiatus.

On the strike water volume and sparge water volume, what is the general consensus?
 
It was eventful. I'll knock the brewing rust off and line out my system. I need to get out my grain mill fron the attic. And some bottles. If I was oblivous to my targets all of the days events wouldn't matter. I started at 6:00ish pm sunday evening. Completely done by 10pm. Clean up, brew day notes, and all. Not too bad for a decade long hiatus.

On the strike water volume and sparge water volume, what is the general consensus?

Here's another new BIABer having a similar conversation.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...dure-for-my-first-all-grain-brew-biab.693394/
 
Nottingham yeast does go well, if room temp was 70 the beer will have been warmer.
Worth considering a water bath to control the temp a bit more next time, or use something like kveik which likes higher temperatures.
I have all of the electronics to build a Son of a fermentor. My wife mentioned the ever growing brewing equipment section behind the breakfast table. I'll wait a few before I point out the obvious place for a keezer.
 
It seems I severely undershot my mash volume. The online BIAB calculator shows 4.28 gallon inital mash volume. I'm assuming that's a no sparge method. I was 1.75 gallons under that.
 
Welcome back! I am a huge fan of batches in the 2.5 gallon range. My primary equipment is a 5 gallon kettle, a bag and a 3-gallon Fermonster. I shoot for around 2.6 gallons into the fermenter to get close to filling a 2.5 gallon keg (or I bottle).

If it helps...for a recent batch that used 6 lbs of grain. 3.9 gal strike water > 3.5 gals pre-boil > 2.8 gals post-boil > 2.6 gals in fermenter. That was a 60 minute boil with 0.7 gals per hour boil off rate. I do full volume mashing and tune my recipes around a 70% brewhouse efficiency. I would have to track down the actuals, but the target OG was 1.067 (with 8 oz of sugar added to the boil).
 
It was eventful. I'll knock the brewing rust off and line out my system. I need to get out my grain mill fron the attic. And some bottles. If I was oblivous to my targets all of the days events wouldn't matter. I started at 6:00ish pm sunday evening. Completely done by 10pm. Clean up, brew day notes, and all. Not too bad for a decade long hiatus.

On the strike water volume and sparge water volume, what is the general consensus?

In some respects I am jealous of the time, however I started brewing 12 gallon batches so I don't have to brew as often. Took me 6 hours today start to finish!
 
Second Brew under the belt. Whipped up a batch of Scottish Ale on Sunday. This time I started even later. Close to 7 pm. I was showered and in bed before 11 pm. If nothing these late starts are encouraging a brewing day that utilizes my time in the most efficient way.

As to my brewhouse efficiency, that's another story. The first one was about 54ish%. This time it was 68%. Post boil SG target was 1.091 I hit 1.082. I did get 2.5 gallons vs 2 gallons last time. Both times I had the LHBS mill my grain. Twice. I have a Multmuncher three roll mill headed this way for the next brew. I will see if I can hit the mid 70's next time with a finer grind.

I moved outside to a propane burner due to the fact that my stove will simply not boil 4 gallons. Much less the 5 gallons this heavy all-grain recipe called for. I spent half the day looking for a propane burner. Only one in the whole city. I assembled it and almost didn't brew. If my grains were not crushed the previous day I would have put it off. I got a new BIAB from @wilserbrewer for my pot and by luck, it fit my 15-inch pot as well.

This time my mash temps didn't hold rock steady like inside. Which is odd as I was outside in a much warmer environment than the house. It wasn't bad. Strike temp was 164 and after mashing in it settled down to 154. The temps dropped to 150 over the 60 minutes. Sparge water was 170ish which I poured over the bag while it was suspended over the kettle with a ratcheting pully from Wilserbrewer. I don't know how well that works. Seems to me like plenty of water will just roll off the bag. Next time I'll get an 18-inch bbq grate and set it on the kettle then set the bag on it so I'll have a greater surface area when I sparge. Also to hold the temps better I'll cut a piece of reflectit to go around the kettle before I put the towels around and over it. I used an aluminum foil cap like before.

All in all a good brew day. Next time I'll start earlier. I may or may not stick with 2.5-gallon batches. If I go to 5 gallons I'll need a bigger pot. 15 gallons for all-grain brewing. I'll find a more powerful burner and see how that helps. It wasn't too bad outside. And I was able to go indoors most of the time with such a big pot for the batch size.
 
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Excellent! Are you using any software? If not I would recommend starting. I recently made the switch to Brewers Friend and am very much enjoying it. That may help you get your numbers more dialed in.
 
Excellent! Are you using any software? If not I would recommend starting. I recently made the switch to Brewers Friend and am very much enjoying it. That may help you get your numbers more dialed in.
I am not at the moment. For the moment I'm relying on the LHBS for the recipes. I did double-check the numbers on the BIAB Calculator. BIAB calculator is a no-sparge calculation website. I have longhand checked the Brewhouse efficiency off of the expected SG from the LHBS. I'll check out Brewer's friend.
 
I am not at the moment. For the moment I'm relying on the LHBS for the recipes. I did double-check the numbers on the BIAB Calculator. BIAB calculator is a no-sparge calculation website. I have longhand checked the Brewhouse efficiency off of the expected SG from the LHBS. I'll check out Brewer's friend.

I would definitely recommend using some software whether its BF, Beersmith or any of the excel sheets that are currently floating around. It will help keep track of numbers and make the long math a thing of the past!
 
strike water volume and sparge water volume, what is the general consensus?

If you're doing BIAB, try this Priceless calc. I corona mill my grain very fine and use absorption of 0.077875 gal/pound of grain. I use full volume mash, it holds temp better that way also.
 
This time my mash temps didn't hold rock steady like inside. Which is odd as I was outside in a much warmer environment than the house. It wasn't bad.
I use 3 layers of Reflectix around the kettle as well as the lid. I also cover the whole works with an old bed pillow and a moving blanket. Temps hold well.
 
I’ve been doing 3 gallon batches for a long time. My wife rarely drinks beer and when she does its only stout and she only wants 1 or 2. Few and far between. I am the only one in my house who drinks beer and 5 gallon batches got to be too much a long time ago. I can’t go through 10 cases from 5 brews.

I have the Anvil Foundry 6.5 which is awesome. Only downside to it is that it has an 8 lb grain capacity. Fine for many recipes, but not for barleywines, imperial stouts, etc unless you supplement with extract. It runs great on regular house current.

I use a 5 gallon carboy as a fermenter. I have 3 gallon carboys I can secondary or dry hop or wood age in. I have 3 gallon kegs too. If I bottle, it’s 30 bottles - a case plus a 6 pack.

I don’t BIAB but I guess the Foundry is similar. I start by putting 1 gallon of water in the bottom because that is the dead space under the basket. That water will not touch the grain except by recirculation. Then I add 1.5 qt per pound on top of that. Heat to temp, dough in, recirculate using their pump. I never seem to quite get the water loss to grain right. I think its a pint per pound? That’s how I have been figuring it.

So 8 lbs of grain * 1.5 = 12 quarts or 3 gallons. At this point I have 4 gallons in the Anvil. If the loss to grain is 8 pints, thats 1 gallon sparge water to get me to the 4 gallons I need to collect. My recipes are all figured as 3.5 gallons, collect 4, boil down to 3.5 so that I actually get at least 3 gallons into the fermenter after trub and waste losses.

The big variable is efficiency. That will determine how much grain you need to use for each recipe. Each system is different.
 
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