Best way to aerate wort just prior to pitching yeast

[cwi]

Also, I hope the 2 micron stone will increase the aeration over what I've been doing, or do you think it wont?

Edit: I found this thread where the OP measured 90 seconds of aeration with a 2 micron stone and it was off the charts high:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/o2-results-my-new-o2-meter-318420/

The 2 micron will work with O2, it will just be less efficient. The drawbacks would be higher oxygen use and time, and the resultant increased foaming. As stated previously, depending on your stance on head proteins, this can be either a non-issue, or a deal breaker. That said, the increase in foaming is probably trivial. The increased cost of O2 due to 2 micron vs. .5 micron is also trivial, even with home center bottles, especially if you have to eat shipping otherwise. The ~$20 you spent for the aquarium pump would be a total loss, though, since I doubt you will ever use it again, once you have O2. I found those filters to be a PITA to deal with, mainly for the unknowns after they have been handled a few times.

 

[tre9er]

The 2 micron will work with O2, it will just be less efficient. The drawbacks would be higher oxygen use and time, and the resultant increased foaming. As stated previously, depending on your stance on head proteins, this can be either a non-issue, or a deal breaker. That said, the increase in foaming is probably trivial. The increased cost of O2 due to 2 micron vs. .5 micron is also trivial, even with home center bottles, especially if you have to eat shipping otherwise. The ~$20 you spent for the aquarium pump would be a total loss, though, since I doubt you will ever use it again, once you have O2. I found those filters to be a PITA to deal with, mainly for the unknowns after they have been handled a few times.

Haha, I don't think I'm phrasing the question properly:

Is an aquarium pump capable of aerating at a higher PPM than a stick blender, paint stirrer on a drill, shaking, etc?

 

[cwi]

Thanks, still curious if you think the aquarium pump/2micron stone will oxygenate better than my stick-blender/any other "household" method would? Otherwise I just threw $48 into the ocean.

You can do the math, and see about returning it, or stopping/refusing shipment.

I found the aquarium pump to be a PITA. From the tubing, to the questionable sanitation of the filter, to the foaming, etc. I used mine a few times, and went back to the shake method, or purge and shake, but I use Sankeys. It was difficult to dial in the air pump flow with only a top view and a flashlight. I would not do the shake method with glass carboys, and don't even own any anymore.

I also don't repitch. When/if I do need to aerate to harvest for a repitch, I will use O2 and a stainless wand. I just don't see myself repitching very much, if at all. If just doing it to save money, most brewpubs will fill you up a jug of yeast, usually WLP001 or some Cal Ale strain, for free. If you are doing it for quality reasons, the local brewpub's yeast is probably healthier than the average White Labs vial, and should already be adapted to your local water profile. If you are using some specialty strain, are you really brewing it regularly enough to repitch?

I just don't see the extra effort of repitching to be worth the effort or savings. Maybe if I had a conical, where I could manage the dumps to get the proper segment of the yeast, and didn't have to wash it, like you do with other vessels. You can even harvest enough to for a proper pitch without having to make a starter, from what I read, anyway.

 

[tre9er]

Thanks. I use open head fermenters. I suppose worst case I'm just out the money for the filter and can get the O2 regulator for use with HW store tanks down the road.

 

[cwi]

Haha, I don't think I'm phrasing the question properly:

Is an aquarium pump capable of aerating at a higher PPM than a stick blender, paint stirrer on a drill, shaking, etc?

I think our posts are merely strangers in the night, exchanging glances while they cross in the ether.
Edit: I also didn't bother to see what came in the Williams kit. I assumed the pump did. They are correct that even the cheapest aq pumps will push enough air/pressure. Other stores claim some fancy HP/HV aq pump is needed. That is a bit pricy just for a wand and a ~$2 filter, though.

The aquarium pump is not capable of aerating to the levels most recommend for repitching. How many repitches/generations it will take before it affects your beer is anyone's guess. The tests I have seen are usually all or nothing aeration, or 8ppm vs. 12-15ppm and the resultant health of the next gen.

The pump is also not capable of doing any more than shaking/mixing. The benefits would be purely personal choices, and related to process- easier, safer, quicker, etc.

If you are going to regularly repitch, you best (only?) option is the O2 kit. Whether you keep the current kit, swap it for a true O2 kit, or add a O2 reg and use the air stone, it's a personal choice.

One alternative if you are just wanting to get to 12-15ppm as cheaply as possible is to just buy the O2 bottle from the home center. You can then purge and shake. It will take some rough calcs to determine how many times to purge the headspace, and it may just take one, depending on your vessel and batch size.

 

[divrguy]

I brew big beers, usually 18 to 23 pounds grain and 8 to 10% ABV using dry yeast only. Have been reading about aerating big beer wort to give the yeast enough oxygen but does this apply to dry yeast?

From the Danstar FAQ:
Quote:
I always aerate my wort when using liquid yeast. Do I need to aerate the wort before pitching dry yeast?
No, there is no need to aerate the wort but it does not harm the yeast either. During its aerobic production, dry yeast accumulates sufficient amounts of unsaturated fatty acids and sterols to produce enough biomass in the first stage of fermentation. The only reason to aerate the wort when using wet yeast is to provide the yeast with oxygen so that it can produce sterols and unsaturated fatty acids which are important parts of the cell membrane and therefore essential for biomass production.

If the slurry from dry yeast fermentation is re-pitched from one batch of beer to another, the wort has to be aerated as with any liquid yeast.

Does the above apply to big beers or is it better to aerate? I typically hold drain tube from cooled wort in brew pot well above the wort level in the fermenting bucket. Is further aerating necessary for big beers? If so, how to aerate? An aquarium pump for a 5 gal tank and a small stone cost $10. Devises that use oxygen cylinders are faster and provide more oxygen but they cost $40 and more. If you aerate what do you use. Can a small fuel filter be used to trap impurities from the air?

Well, no is the real answer if you strictly use dry yeast. Even the manufacturer states that but..... Since I am a rebel and I do both and sometimes do big beers.. I got into the habit early to aerate and now I just aerate dry or wet and haven't had a stuck one yet (knock on wood)

EDIT: I brew a lot and have never done anything other than use a paint spinner. As far as I'm concerned, it aerated the heck out of the wort in a 3-5 min spin.

 

[cwi]

Thanks. I use open head fermenters. I suppose worst case I'm just out the money for the filter and can get the O2 regulator for use with HW store tanks down the road.

I see Williams doesn't offer a wand with a .5 micron stone. There are other places that do, and for much cheaper from what I remember. I remember one place with 1/4 NPT stones and wands. Makes cleaning simpler.

If you foresee going to O2 for yeast harvest reasons, I would bite the bullet and return it. You will more than likely not want or need the $10 filter, or the ~$10 aquarium pump you will have to buy to use it, once you try O2, even when it isn't strictly needed for repitching. It's just less time and fuss, even if just for purging and shaking.

 

[tre9er]

I see Williams doesn't offer a wand with a .5 micron stone. There are other places that do, and for much cheaper from what I remember. I remember one place with 1/4 NPT stones and wands. Makes cleaning simpler.

If you foresee going to O2 for yeast harvest reasons, I would bite the bullet and return it. You will more than likely not want or need the $10 filter, or the ~$10 aquarium pump you will have to buy to use it, once you try O2, even when it isn't strictly needed for repitching. It's just less time and fuss, even if just for purging and shaking.

I've cancelled my order.

Edit: I just got the little regulator thing instead. I'm ordering a 0.5micron stone also. I wish it came with the SS wand, but I can figure something out to weigh it down I'm sure.

OP, sorry to hijack your thread, but it was on topic at least!

Now, how do you guys keep the stone on the bottom (those of you that don't have the SS wand)? Also, what are your handling practices/tips?

 

[cwi]

I've cancelled my order.

Edit: I just got the little regulator thing instead. I'm ordering a 0.5micron stone also. I wish it came with the SS wand, but I can figure something out to weigh it down I'm sure.

OP, sorry to hijack your thread, but it was on topic at least!

Now, how do you guys keep the stone on the bottom (those of you that don't have the SS wand)? Also, what are your handling practices/tips?

The stiff wand is key. Using soft plastic hoses/tubing is a nightmare.
The stone you ordered has a barb for attaching the gas, and 1/2NPT threads for the inline injector setup (which is a gadget that is a bit overcomplicated/imprecise). You will need to find some stiff tubing to couple the stone to the wand, or solder a SS tube onto/over the barb. It should be workable, though. Most two part wands use ~1/4NPT fittings on the stone, and then have a ~1/4NPT compression or soldered fitting on the tube/wand. Some use tube/tube compression on the wand and stone, which might work if the barb is a size that happens to fit a compression fitting.

 

[tre9er]

I got the stone from norcal which just has the hose barb, so I will have to figure something out. I'm crafty though

 

[Mb2658]

+1 for the oxygen canister kit from Williams Brewing. It is well worth the money.

 

[yellowrv]

I went to my local DME (durable medical equipment) dealer and got an O2 tank. Connected it via tubing to my bottling wand and and gave it about a minutes worth at 4L/minute. Had bubbling and foam 8hrs later.