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Best source(s) for Tri-Clamp fittings

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okiedog

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Lately I've been looking at 1.5 inch tri-clamp fittings for kettle set-up/retrofit. It seems there are many sources for tri-clamp fittings, including weld on ferrules. Some sources such as those from China may be questionable, so I am trying to avoid those. I want to make sure and select sanitary 304 stainless with silicone gaskets.

Can someone point me in the right direction?
 
Thanks for the input y'all! I currently don't have a TIG welder, so I'm planning on silver soldering. I've had a lot of experience silver soldering 1-1/2 and 2 inch copper pipe and copper and brass fittings. Has anyone had issues silver soldering SS TC fittings onto a SS brew kettle?
 
You could always check out Bobby M. He has a couple videos up on youtube regarding the steps he takes to silver solder on SS couplings.
 
You want 1" and even then it's oversized for homebrew systems. All of the affordable fittings are from China, they probably all come from the same factories. On the cheapest ones the quality can be hit or miss. If you can wait you can always order samples first.
 
Most of the fittings I have bought are from Taiwan. They are good quality.

I use 1.5" ferrules on everything but smaller valves and such. A 1.5" ferrule will fit a heating element. Smaller won't.
 
The 1" and 1.5" TC fittings look to be the same size externally. Anyway, I could attach hose barb or threaded fittings down to 1/2" if I want. I'm looking at putting them on 15 to 20 gallon kettles, or half barrel kegs. I'm a ways from getting my system configuration and size nailed down, and my limited budget will stretch the build out several months. But, I love the simplicity and flexibility of the TC fittings, and do want them on my system.
 
You can get 3/4" ball valves and such in a 1.5" triclamp flange. For your hose barbs I would recommend 5/8" barbs so that you do not need a hose clamp to hold the silicone hose in place.

The advantage of triclamp is that you can connect anything to anything since there is no polarity. They do make a bit of a mess each time you disconnect them. I have everything in my brewery standardized to 1.5" clamps.
 
I've been silver soldering ss/brass/cu in all combinations for a while. They all work great for me. Only disadvantage is that solder needs a very close fit. it just won't bridge gaps of more than maybe 0.010".

If I have sloppy fits, I break out the acetylene/oxy and silver braze.
 
My experience is with silver brazing. It is a good fairly good gap filler, and also has a higher melting point than silver bearing solder. I don't have access now to oxy acetylene, so I'll probably have to stick with silver bearing solder.
 
The silver soldering on stainless works really well. I soldered some fittings on one of my kettles. As you know just clean and prep well and use the right flux. I use harris stay clean. It works really good, just puts off some bad fumes. The way i got a good fit was drill a hole a little smaller than the fitting. Put a socket that is a little larger than the od of the fitting on one side of the pot run all-thread through the socket pot and fitting with washers on both ends and draw the fitting through the hole. Turned out quite well. Hope this helps okiedog.

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Everything helps, thanks. I have no problem soldering or brazing, but have no experience with stainless steel. I guess I'll just have to practice on SS before I start soldering fittings on a pot.
 

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