Best kegging equipment available

[JonBoy47]

So im not quite ready to start kegging just yet. I need to save up a few $ first. I plan on building a keezer with a collar. Im interested in finding out what the high quality kegging accessories are. Im looking for taps, shanks, beer line, gas line, keg connections, etc. I have learned that starting with the cheap stuff Is just a waste of money. I would like brand and model numbers. Hopefully I can start picking it up piece by piece so it dosnt hurt so bad all at once. Thanks!

 

[BargainFittings]

Definitely go with stainless steel forward seal perlick brand taps. The shanks should also be stainless steel if possible.

The rest of the gear is up to you but you will be happiest with those taps and they really are not that much more expensive up front.

Go with 3/16" barbs and beer line. Use 1/4" for gas line.

 

[Seven]

I've been happy with the Micromatic C02 regulator

I'd recommend a 20-pound C02 tank since it will allow you to force-carb, etc., a lot between tank refills.

 

[jeffmeh]

+1 to the Perlick forward-sealing faucets and SS shanks. That's probably what matters most.

You may also want to consider the threaded disconnects rather than the barbed ones, as they allow you to remove the gas or liquid line from the disconnect without cutting the hose. Not a big deal, IMO, but something to consider.

CO2 tanks and regulators peform pretty much the same, so there is really no reason I know of to spend more than you must there. If you want to be able to run multiple pressures, you will need a secondary regulator for each separate pressure minus one you can run off of the primary. You will need a gas manifold for multiple gas lines, regardless. The "cadillac" approach would be a bank of secondary regulators.

Obviously, you will need some type of temperature controller to run the freezer at refrigerator temperatures. You can build a DIY version from a Love controller or the like, or buy one already fabricated. Either digital or analog will work fine. If you want to be able to heat as well as cool, make sure you get a true dual-stage one that can be wired to do both. Your choice here is whether to wire it directly to the freezer thermostat system, or just wire it with an outlet into which you plug in your freezer.

Lots of choices. Take a look at Micromatic, Keg Connection, and the like.

 

[CidahMastah]

+ 1 on the perlick 575SS faucets http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037SY90Y/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 - they are awesome. I bought a tower with them (from keg connection) and they are REALLY nice.

You are probably better off buying it all at once, likely you will get a discount on it all like 10%. Doesn't seem like much, but it is when you check your bill afterward

I went with keg connection and went all stainless throughout, except on gas lines.

Best beer line is supposed to be this stuff:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/group-buy-accuflex-bev-seal-ultra-barrier-line-257625/

It is too hard to give you too much detail because you haven't described your set up. You looking for a tower, or just taps in the collar of your keezer, etc.

 

[TheMan]

Obviously, you will need some type of temperature controller to run the freezer at refrigerator temperatures. You can build a DIY version from a Love controller or the like, or buy one already fabricated. Either digital or analog will work fine. If you want to be able to heat as well as cool, make sure you get a true dual-stage one that can be wired to do both. Your choice here is whether to wire it directly to the freezer thermostat system, or just wire it with an outlet into which you plug in your freezer.

I have both an analog and digital. If this is just for holding kegged beer, then the analog is fine and no need to spend extra on the digital. I use my digital controller on my fermentation freezer where the temperatures are much more crucial.

You will not find a single person that regrets perlicks. However, you will find almost everyone agrees that switching to perlicks was the greatest thing they ever did.

 

[JonBoy47]

Definitely go with stainless steel forward seal perlick brand taps. The shanks should also be stainless steel if possible.

This is definately on my list. Can someone tell me the difference between the two models of stainless taps. I saw that one was called a creamer. What does that mean?

 

[JonBoy47]

It is too hard to give you too much detail because you haven't described your set up. You looking for a tower, or just taps in the collar of your keezer, etc.

Initially I will be placing the taps in the collar. In the future (probably a year or two down the road) I would like to build a tower set up on the lid. Im not sure what other info would be helpful. Let me know.

 

[JonBoy47]

Obviously, you will need some type of temperature controller to run the freezer at refrigerator temperatures.

I really like the look of the love controller. Right now I have an analog controller, Johnson I think, that I will probably start off with to save money. I picked it up among a lot of other items when I bought a bundle of equipment on craigslist.

 

[jeffmeh]

This is definately on my list. Can someone tell me the difference between the two models of stainless taps. I saw that one was called a creamer. What does that mean?

The 575 has the creamer, and that is the only difference from the 525, as far as I know. The creamer "simulates" a nitrogen mix by running the beer through a restrictor plate and creating more head. I've never used one, but I am very skeptical that it would even be close to a real nitrogen mix. Not something I am interested in, but YMMV.

 

[JonBoy47]

Me either. I dont want anything called a creamer mixing with my beer! haha I will definately be going with the 525.

 

[CidahMastah]

The 575 has the creamer, and that is the only difference from the 525, as far as I know. The creamer "simulates" a nitrogen mix by running the beer through a restrictor plate and creating more head. I've never used one, but I am very skeptical that it would even be close to a real nitrogen mix. Not something I am interested in, but YMMV.

I have the creamer faucets and they work great (they are the upgrade from the 525).

The creamer faucets pour regularly just like the 525 with the added feature of the creamer (separate functionality). Basically it allows you to put a nice head on a stout or any brew when you serve it. So you pull the tab forward and it pours regular. You push it back past the closing point and it does its creamer thing. I like it, though I don't use it all that often. If you don't like it you never have to use it. I would say if the prices are close, go for the creamer 575ss.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/perlick-creamer-faucet-131264/

 

[heferly]

Indeed, the 575 does not pour like nitro, but it will knock co2 out of suspension...if you're like me and can't afford a nitro setup (yet), the creamer does its job. Anyway you look at it, perlicks are the way to go!

Stainless everything, and at least a dual reg setup for different serving pressures or force carbing.

 

[CidahMastah]

at least a dual reg setup for different serving pressures or force carbing.

+1

absolutely get a dual body (not dual gauge) or more (3 body, 4 body, etc) for your regulator. It is key to be able to at least boost on one line whil serving at another. Or serve a hefe on one line and stout on another.

 

[CidahMastah]

Initially I will be placing the taps in the collar. In the future (probably a year or two down the road) I would like to build a tower set up on the lid. Im not sure what other info would be helpful. Let me know.

I went the opposite as you, did the tower first and plan on putting in some taps in the collar downt eh road. as it turns out, the taps in the collar for my keezer are a bad idea based on the fact that there simply isn't much space.

keg connection has a stainless tower + 575perlicks for like 180 I think. But if you are doing straight in the collar for now you may want to consider saving that cash for a tower set up. i.e. use party taps for now, coiled in the keg. Save for a few months and do the tower full on.

If not just go with the 525s or 575s with a stainless shank mounted in the keezer. You will have to see what size you need based on your keezer set up. I would go with 10ft of beer line per faucet and cut it back as needed. You might want to got 15 ft on one line if you like to serve some higher carbed stuff like hefes, carbed ciders, etc. but you will have to figure that out as you design your set up.


my set up runs from the basement up to my bar in the living room on the first floor.

 

[JonBoy47]

I have the creamer faucets and they work great (they are the upgrade from the 525).

Do you think the creamer faucets will be as reliable long term as the standard faucets? Im just thinking the extra parts and the sealing action may cause a problem later on.

 

[CidahMastah]

Do you think the creamer faucets will be as reliable long term as the standard faucets? Im just thinking the extra parts and the sealing action may cause a problem later on.

absolutely. I hear you on the more parts concern - but look at the mechanism, it is very simple.

 

[RichBenn]

In addition to what others have said, from my own experience:

1. Get a regulator with knobs. Mine adjust with screws, so I'm always looking for a screwdriver and a wrench. (loosen nut, adjust, then re-tighten.)
2. Install a fan. Once you get your system balanced for both pour and carbonation, there is still the problem of "first pour" being foamy. It's due to uneven temperatures between the keg and the line/tap. Second pour doesn't have that problem because the tap cools down. By circulating air, you get less foam on that "first pour".

 

[CidahMastah]

In addition to what others have said, from my own experience:

1. Get a regulator with knobs. Mine adjust with screws, so I'm always looking for a screwdriver and a wrench. (loosen nut, adjust, then re-tighten.)
2. Install a fan. Once you get your system balanced for both pour and carbonation, there is still the problem of "first pour" being foamy. It's due to uneven temperatures between the keg and the line/tap. Second pour doesn't have that problem because the tap cools down. By circulating air, you get less foam on that "first pour".

i.e. get a taprite brand dual body regulator - they sell them at kc

 

[JonBoy47]

2. Install a fan. Once you get your system balanced for both pour and carbonation, there is still the problem of "first pour" being foamy. It's due to uneven temperatures between the keg and the line/tap. Second pour doesn't have that problem because the tap cools down. By circulating air, you get less foam on that "first pour".

With the fans, are PC fans good enough? Or do you need something bigger?

Also do you guys have a preference on brands or types of manifolds? I have seen some that just look like a bunch of valves conected to each other and I have seen some that look like a clean single unit. Other than looks is there any difference in functionality?

 

[RichBenn]

With the fans, are PC fans good enough? Or do you need something bigger?

Depends what kind of kegerator you are building and how the taps come out. I just run a 12V PC fan off of a 9V transformer, but I did have to play around with placement.

 

[JonBoy47]

I would like to have a keezer that will hold 8 kegs. I will only have 4 taps though. Im thinking ill probably end up with a 14 cu ft freezer.

 

[CidahMastah]

I use a PC fan, but mine is only 4 kegs deep.

get a quality manifold. If those things leak, you can kill your entire tank of Co2. You see the ones I have in my keezer, they work great. Make sure they have check valves.

You won't regret going bigger, even if you keep only 4 on tap

 

[JonBoy47]

get a quality manifold. If those things leak, you can kill your entire tank of Co2. You see the ones I have in my keezer, they work great. Make sure they have check valves.

Is there a particular brand of manifold that is good? Or is it just that style of manifold?

 

[jeffmeh]

I would like to have a keezer that will hold 8 kegs. I will only have 4 taps though. Im thinking ill probably end up with a 14 cu ft freezer.

How about two 4-way manifolds and a secondary regulator, so you can have two diffrerent pressures?

Primary regulator -> 4-way manifold -> secondary regulator -> 4-way manifold

The first manifold has its pressure regulated by the primary regulator, the second by the secondary.

Of course, you could have more secondary regulators if you wanted more separate pressures. For example, for three different pressures:

Primary regulator -> 4-way manifold -> secondary regulator -> 2-way manifold -> secondary regulator -> 2-way manifold

And you definitely want a check valve on each manifold output, and optionally on the primary and secondary regulator outputs.

Hey, I have been reading that Perlick has been having some manufacturing problems with the 525SS and 575SS, and that some of them are not fitting the stainless shanks. If you are buying the shanks and faucets together, you may want to buy them from someone who is willing to mate each faucet with a shank before sending them your way. Or set up the gas side and serve from some picnic taps until Perlick resolves the problem.

 

[JonBoy47]

How about two 4-way manifolds and a secondary regulator, so you can have two diffrerent pressures?

I definately want to be able to carb/ serve at different pressures. Do you think that there would be any need to have larger manifolds? Like two 6 way manifolds? I was just thinking that way I wouldnt be stuck only putting 4 kegs at a certain pressure. Might be overkill though.

 

[jeffmeh]

I definately want to be able to carb/ serve at different pressures. Do you think that there would be any need to have larger manifolds? Like two 6 way manifolds? I was just thinking that way I wouldnt be stuck only putting 4 kegs at a certain pressure. Might be overkill though.

I'm not sure that I would define any of this as a matter of need, lol.

I think the key question is, what do you really plan to do regarding separate pressures? Personally, I would keep it fairly simple to start. You can buy in a way that would allow you to expand without paying much of a penalty. For example,

If you bought 2 4-way manifolds, you could chain them and have one pressure.

If you decided you wanted 2 pressures, you could put a secondary regulator between them.

If you then decided that 2 pressures were fine, but you wanted more than 4 kegs at the same pressure, you could buy another 4-way manifold and chain two of them together.

If you then decided that you really wanted 3 pressures, you could buy another secondary regulator to put between the chained manifolds.

If you get the check valves with flare fittings, you can move your gas lines from one manifold to another and close the check valves where there is no line (that would be the best way to have more gas ports than you can fit kegs, rather than having more gas lines and keg disconnects).

Start somewhere with 1 or 2 pressures, and learn what you will really value.

 

[JonBoy47]

I can definately see the advantage of having 2 pressures. Not sure that I would ever need 3. I think you are right about starting smaller and building up to your needs.

If you get the check valves with flare fittings, you can move your gas lines from one manifold to another and close the check valves where there is no

Sorry for being ignorant but what does a flare fitting do for you?

 

[tesilential]

I know the main purpose of this thread is to get it setup right the first time, so here's my advice:

I got a 4 way manifold and single reg. Knowing what I know I would have got a secondary reg (KC sells an add-a-body for $38) and two 2-way manifolds, or just two T splitters w/ in hose check valves.

I brew many different style beers, and now I'm wishing I could carb them up differently, I'll end up getting a secondary reg and T splitter, allowing me to serve 4 kegs at normal pressure and 2 at a higher or lower pressure.

 

[JuanMoore]

Sorry for being ignorant but what does a flare fitting do for you?

It makes changing the lines around way quicker and easier than using hose barbs with hose clamps.

 

[CidahMastah]

I personally would never recc starting with a single gauge regulator. Having two pressures (2 body) or even 3 pressure (3 body) to use is VERY convenient. Whether that would be for boost carbing, or just serving pressures. Or if you ever hook up a bottle gun. I would never go less than 2 pressures unless you plan to drink the same style of beer often, or don't care about varying carb temps on beers. I thought I wouldn't care about carying them, but now I do it all the time. There is a reason it is done like that, it really improves the chracteristics of the brew.

I think if you plan on having 4 taps, get 2 maifolds with 4 ports on each - this will be all you need. I have two manifolds, one with 2 and 1 with 3 ports. I am never boost carbing 4 kegs, so I don't need the extra ports. However if I upgrade my keezer to hold say 8 kegs or so, it would be a nice feature to have.

 

[CidahMastah]

Is there a particular brand of manifold that is good? Or is it just that style of manifold?

any from KC or another reputable vendor should be fine.

I have read a lot of threads on here where people try to build them to save money. I am a DIYer, but for these, IMO - buy the suckers premade.