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If this is a problem it should be your first priority. One of the GE under the sink filters worked for me. In the long run, it will save you money that you can spend on equipment and ingredients.

I don't mind buying water for it.. It adds about $6 to the cost of brewing a batch, but it guarantees that I have tasty water to start with.
 
Well, the other factor here is that my sink doesn't have anything that will connect to a wort chiller. I guess I could go out into the garage to do it, but that seems like a lot of hassle, and a hotbed for contamination. I'm usually getting the temp down to 140 in about 20-30 minutes using the sink method (I have an aluminum pot, so it loses heat very quickly). Is that quick enough to prevent this problem? Also, what exactly is DMS?

I find it really strange that your faucet doesn't have a threaded part under the aerator. 99% of the Faucets in the world do, then you hook the faucet to garden hose adaptor onto the threads.

I bet you you have one and don't know it, a lot of folks don't realize the the tip of the faucet is threaded and there is an aerator on it.

20021001_You_Can_Fix_It_page001img002.jpg


sink-aerator.jpg


You can usually unscrew it by hand.

Then you screw something like this on

633892508582375686.jpg


Which you can get with your wort chiller, or any hardware store.
 
I find it really strange that your faucet doesn't have a threaded part under the aerator. 99% of the Faucets in the world do, then you hook the faucet to garden hose adaptor onto the threads.

I bet you you have one and don't know it, a lot of folks don't realize the the tip of the faucet is threaded and there is an aerator on it.

I have a weird specialty faucet head... It's somewhat similar to the movable shower heads you sometimes see in showers. My wife and I have talked about replacing it, as it annoys the hell out of us, but that probably won't happen until we get a new sink, which won't happen until we get new countertops, etc.

I guess I could move it into the bathroom though. I think it has a pretty standard sink.
 
Well, the other factor here is that my sink doesn't have anything that will connect to a wort chiller. I guess I could go out into the garage to do it, but that seems like a lot of hassle, and a hotbed for contamination. I'm usually getting the temp down to 140 in about 20-30 minutes using the sink method (I have an aluminum pot, so it loses heat very quickly). Is that quick enough to prevent this problem? Also, what exactly is DMS?

DMS = Dimethyl sulfides

Does your sink have an aerator that threads on to the end of the faucet? If so the there are adapters that will allow you to hook up a chiller. I generally brew out doors or in the garage when it's cold. I use a propane burner. I cool with the garden hose, an immersion chiller and stir with a spoon. Stirring makes a world of difference when using and IC. I do everything outside, except in the freezing winter when the hose is frozen. Then I hook it up to the kitchen sink.
 
I have a weird specialty faucet head... It's somewhat similar to the movable shower heads you sometimes see in showers. My wife and I have talked about replacing it, as it annoys the hell out of us, but that probably won't happen until we get a new sink, which won't happen until we get new countertops, etc.

I guess I could move it into the bathroom though. I think it has a pretty standard sink.

Is the funky head screwed in? If so then it is threaded to what you want.
 
DMS = Dimethyl sulfides

Does your sink have an aerator that threads on to the end of the faucet? If so the there are adapters that will allow you to hook up a chiller. I generally brew out doors or in the garage when it's cold. I use a propane burner. I cool with the garden hose, an immersion chiller and stir with a spoon. Stirring makes a world of difference when using and IC. I do everything outside, except in the freezing winter when the hose is frozen. Then I hook it up to the kitchen sink.

Arg.. It looks like I might have more to worry about because I have to cover the brew kettle almost completely to get it up to boiling temperature.. This hobby is going to get really expensive.
 
Arg.. It looks like I might have more to worry about because I have to cover the brew kettle almost completely to get it up to boiling temperature.. This hobby is going to get really expensive.

Keep in mind that getting water to boiling temperature takes a lot more energy than keeping water at boiling temperature. The only stovetop brewer I personally know covers to get to boil but has no problem keeping a decent rolling boil uncovered.
 
I have a weird specialty faucet head... It's somewhat similar to the movable shower heads you sometimes see in showers. My wife and I have talked about replacing it, as it annoys the hell out of us, but that probably won't happen until we get a new sink, which won't happen until we get new countertops, etc.

I guess I could move it into the bathroom though. I think it has a pretty standard sink.


I have the same type of faucet. It doubles as the sprayer and the head of the faucet can be detached from the base to use as a wand. It does not have threads to attach adapters.
 
1.You are not doing all grain, so why are you doing
full boils? Cut the volume of the boil to 2 gallons
and you can cool quickly in the sink with a smaller pot.

2. You don't need much high tech equipment, you need the
proper yeast for the style, and the proper temperature
for the fermentation and aging. You can control
the temp somewhat with cold water in a bucket but
that is not practical for conditioning over 2-4
weeks. You really need a second fridge and a
temperature controller, but it may not be an
absolute necessity in winter with a cool cellar.

3. I wouldn't worry about the all grain hype. Malt
extract is made with all grain methods, so it's
exactly the same thing. AG will save you money in
the very long run, but I wouldn't worry about
that or all the equipment that goes with it. You can
buy light dry malt extract cheap in bulk, and
with that you can make most beers with the
steeping method or partial mashes.

4. You don't need a stirrer to make a yeast starter
unless you are making huge starters for lager,
but if you are making lagers then you definitely
need temperature control, with fermentation
around 45F then lager at about 32F. You can make
the necessary starter with a quart bottle and
a small cork that fits with a hole in it for
an airlock. You only need half a quart, and
in fact I've made great beer by just emptying
the foil pack a day after initiating it, but
mind you, this was with *proper temperature
control*. In fact, Wyeast sells starter packs
that already have the proper amount of
yeast in them. Buy one of these, then
propagate it to your next batch.
www.wyeastlab.com

Figure out a way with your stuff to control
the temp, use a liquid yeast and your battle
is 99% won as far as process goes. Now, learning
how the ingredients affect the taste is another
story.
Jim:mug:
 
Figure out a way with your stuff to control
the temp, use a liquid yeast and your battle
is 99% won as far as process goes. Now, learning
how the ingredients affect the taste is another
story.
Jim:mug:

All good advice. I'll add one thing. Pitching colder is a great way to help control fermentation temps and a chiller is a great tool to help get the wort cool for pitching.

But a dedicated fermentation fridge with digital controler is the bomb!
 

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