Bent lid opening? Worth trying to salvage?

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Cider Wraith

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Didn't follow protocol attempted to put this into service without pressure test. Overnight with PBW, thorough rinses, new O-rings all-around. Warm water w/ Starsan closed lid to shake, held over sink, water pouring out. Inspection seems to point to a slightly deformed lid opening? Tried another lid with same results. Thoughts?

Hadn't thought about it at the time but if wanted to take the time to put it back together could try to hit it with a couple PSI and spray Starsan around to look for bubbling.

But ... is it worth it? Have you had success with reforming a deformed lid opening (if that's what it is)? It does hold water up to the rim so what other uses are there for something like this? Thanks for reading -
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Well, if your saying you can't use it the way it is, then I would say it's worth trying to fix. Find some body work hammers and tools to try to beat it into place. Put the lid back on when you start so you can see your progress as you work it. Work slow and you should be able to get it back into working order.
 
I just returned a used keg I'd bought that had similar damage.... the best seal I could get, leaked out over a few hours. I felt bad returning it, because it seemed to me that with vise-grips or a clamp and some wood shims I should be able to gently bend it back... Given that it's a critical part and owing to injury I can longer regard myself as completely reliable, I chose to just exchange it. If thats not an option, then you could try shaping a couple pieces of hardwood (using another keg as a guide) and slowly try and bend it back into shape. Otherwise, there's the obvious use as a non-pressurized fermenter or storage vessel.
Best of luck.
 
Yeah, there are just times when no matter how hard one tries getting metal back into it's original form it's a lost cause, too many variables. To hold again I might guess the curvature couldn't have the tiniest imperfection. Or, maybe I'm all washed up and it's easy. :) Anyone every tried and succeeded?
 
Yes it is, the reason for body work tools is that most are rounded edges that won't dent or cut as easy.
Still need to be gentle with stainless though, it's much harder than sheet steel using for automotive work.... fine to pound parts that won't forming a precise function, not always a good idea for an already stamped fine curve. :bigmug:
 
I see a small cut on edge. If I bought local, I'd take back. If on line, I'd be contacting seller. But if it holds pressure, no issue. I would not think you are going to move it back where it was originally. It will distort in another area if you start banging on it. If you keep, I'd file that sharp point off. Btw. The gaskets can conform to a lot...
 
It was received several years ago as part of a shipment of four. Hadn't looked closely at it until couple months ago. It must have received a severe blow around the top, I remember straightening out the locking mechanism hinge. Stupidly didn't try a pressure test. Probably a lost cause but maybe someday I'll fool with it again. If it could marginally hold pressure it could possibly be a fermenter. Trying to clean up old kegs is sometimes like trying to restore an old car that's too far gone. Also, the price for a pair of my favorite AEBs just went down $20 so only about double the price to get a spanking new keg with new o-rings compare to a battered oldie
 
I can't tell from your pictures how badly deformed the edge is. If it's not too much deformed you should be able to gently coax it back enough (using a piece of hardwood and a hammer) so the 2 mating flanges, the keg opening and the lid's, become relatively parallel.

They sell thicker lid o-rings that may help getting a better seal too. Or try a silicone o-ring, if you have one, they're much more pliable.

Also make sure the bail puts on enough tension, all the way around. You can stick a dime or penny under one of both of the bail's legs.
 
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