Beersmith questions..... HELP!!!!

[MDB]

Just bought it, seems pretty cool, but raising lots of questions:

(1) I just entered 6 extract recipe kits I brewed, none of them hit the numbers the recipe said exactly. I suspect this might be because the LHBS kit recipes are less than precise in what they disclose as measurements, or for some ingredients I had to guess because what was listed in the recipe I cant find exactly on beersmith (i.e. recipe says "liquid extra light extract" -- not on BS, I guessed Pale Liquid Extract). Anyone experince this and anyone know why? Do LHBS often get "vague" with ingredients and measurements? Or is BS not 100% reliable or just limited in the ingredients it offers?

(2) Ranges --why are half my ranges for color, IBU, OG etc in the red? I entered the right style. And I do notice all the fields to the right say "ok" but amI reading BS wrong thinking everything should be in green or yellow?

(3) IBUs. Am I right that the IBU number is not what is important, but rather the "Bitterness ratio"? For example -- I have black IPA I just brewed from a recipe kit. BS puts the IBUs off the charts at 118 (which I dont get I have 1.5 oz columbus at 60 min, .5 oz columbus at 15 min and 1 oz amarillo at flameout???) Anyway the "bitterness ratio says "ok" and that number is is 2.157. So is it that the really important number is the ratio and not the IBUs?? (THis one I really want to know because it was one bitter brew on the taste going into the fermenter, and I'm still supposed to dry hop)

(4) Equipment -- what's up with that? I have a 5 gallon pot, my recipes usually call for a 2.5 to 3 gallon boil. I thought a 5 gallon pot was pretty standard, why is not that an option (at least with my boil size)??

Thanks in advance!!!!

 

[ArcaneXor]

(1) Color and OG/FG should be fairly close. IBUs may differ greatly. If OG/FG is way off, check your batch size - your LHBS may have recipes configured for 5.5 gallons of wort into the fermentor, for instance.

(2) Again, check your batch size. Or your LHBS may not limit itself to the BJCP definitions of styles.

(3) Don't get hung up on IBU numbers. Different formulas will give you totally different results at times. Choose one formula and stick with it throughout your brewing life, keeping in mind that people who post or publish recipes online and in books may use a different formula. Treat the Bitterness Ratio accordingly... the Rager formula may tell you it's 1, while Tinseth tells you it's 0.5... BTW, dry hopping doesn't affect IBUs (though it can affect perceived bitterness).

(4) You need to create a new equipment profile to match what you have. Estimate any numbers as needed, then dial the profile in until the software's estimates match your measurements.

 

[JohnnySardonic]

I'm still getting the hang of the program, but I'll add my $0.02 s anyway.

The numbers that BeerSmith pumps out are dependent on the equipment profile you have set up. Although it took me a while to figure out (I was only on my second batch when I started using it), I stillwould take the time to set a custom profile up for your setup. This includes water volumes throughout the process, which took me a while to figure out.

On the other hand, if you have already done this... I have no idea how to help you. The program still throws me for a loop every once and a while, although it's fairly accurate after I set up my equipment.

Edit: see #4 above

 

[mmonacel]

Well, lots to get into and it's late so I'll take a crack at it. In the meantime however it would greatly help if you post up one of the recipes you have so someone can help / walk you through it. The software takes a little getting used to, but once you understand it, it's a huge tool. Check out the FAQ and videos on the main site.

1: I rarely enter a recipe and get the OG spot on. Usually it's 1-3 points off in some direction or the other. This is due mainly to slight differences in the author's calculations (or the tool they used) and BS's for the grain / extract you selected. If you're within a few points on OG, you're good. For the extract, you probably selected the right one. For liquid extract the potential would be the in the 1.036 to 1.038 range typically. Again, if you're close, you're fine.

2: Will need more info to answer that. A recipe along with what you entered or a screenshot of what you entered would be a big help here.

3: Both are important. Overall IBUs provides a specific bittering value. If the recipe has an IBU listed, I would assume it's using the Tinsenth calculation (see Options > Bitterness). You'll want to be in teh ballpark there (with say 5). This all depends on the amounts and alpha percentage of the hops being entered correctly - ie. the recipe calls for 1oz of 5% Magnum hops and you enter 1oz of 5.8% Magnum hops, your IBUs will be off. You can change the % value when you add it. BU/GU is basically a contextual range which means that it provides a sense of if the beer is bitter or sweet given the OG and IBU numbers. For instance you'd have a hard time swallowing a 60 IBU Pilsner b/c it's so bitter, but a 60 IBU barleywine could taste sweet rather than bitter. For recipe entry, focus on the plain IBU number. Assuming your OG and IBU matches, so will your BU/GU ratio.

4: This really is a great feature in BS and something that takes a few batches to hone down. Basically pick an equipment profile that is close to your own and customize and rename it to mimic your exact system. Once you figure out your boil off rate (amount per hour is more exact than percent per hour), set your volumes (amount your boil kettle can hold, etc.) and your losses (accept the defaults for now) you should be pretty close to getting BS to precisely calculate the starting water volumes and other such things you'll need to hit your numbers spot on. Note that if you edit / tweak your equipment, you'll want to reset the recipe to use that specific equipment profile (set to another profile and then back to yours) so it will incorporate the latest changes. (As a feature, it will keep a "versioned" history of the profile you had when you first selected it in that recipe, so you need to "reset" it).

Good luck. Your $20 was well spent. I may take a few batches to realize it, but stick with it, it'll pay off for sure.

 

[Erroneous]

I think your ibu calculation and og will be off if you set the total batch size to 2.5 instead of 5. Change your equipment profile instead, and it may clear up

 

[william_shakes_beer]

Keep in mind that the software is based on average sugar potential for each malt type. The actual potential sugar can vary from one maltster to another, and within a particular maltster from batch to batch. The factory breweries will get a malt analysis for each batch (read railroad car) of malt they purchase and make adjustments to end up with a repeatable product. Home brewers rarely go to that length.

 

[jbaysurfer]

A) Equipment profile is a very important thing to spend time on in BS. If you're doing a full boil and the recipe is made for a partial boil, you'll get more utilization of the hops (for example)

B) The beersmith profile for each hop (ingredients category) is set to the AAUs (alpha acid units) of one particular hops crop. Hops AAU change every year. So just because you use cascade from the BS profile, doesn't mean it will accurately calculate your IBUs since it may be using an inaccurate crop to calculate it. Check the AA% on the hops you get and make sure you edit the ingredient profile (double click on the ingredient in the recipe list) to reflect the right AA% for the hops you're using.

Lastly, IBUs are computed different ways. Check the computation method of your recipe and be sure BS is set to the same method. Truthfully I don't bother with this, but between utilization (this is a setting in the equipment profile) and AA% of particular hops, you'll take care of the majority of your IBU discrepancies.

Edit: I see an above poster talked about the AA% of your hops already. Lots of good advice above. BS takes a learning curve, but the more you learn, the more powerful you'll realize it really is.

 

[DoubleAught]

I really had a hard time understanding BeerSmith when I first started using it. There are some "How to" videos on the BeerSmith website. I learned a ton from those and use the program pretty easily now. Almost everything is changeable and it works well once you grasp the concept.

Try out those videos, they really help.

http://beersmith.com/video/

 

[MDB]

Thanks folks, I have now spent several hours with the program and in light of the advice here and lights are going on, and I can see tha it will only get better as I go. Very helpful thread