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Specialty IPA: Rye IPA Bee Cave Brewery Rye IPA

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I just ordered this kit from Brewmasters. This will be my second AG brew and I am excited. I do have a few questions about this recipe pertaining to my system.
I am using a 10gal Cooler with a false bottom....

I am assuming this recipe calls for a "Batch Sparge" like the Haus Pale Ale. For Ed's Haus Pale Ale I ended up with more pre-boil volume than expected (7gal instead of 6.5gal) and missed my OG a little low.
After mashing should you stir prior to adding the 180 degree water or after or both?
Do you repeat this after adding sparge water? The HPA recipe had it sit with the 175 degree sparge water for 15 minutes. Should I stir after this 15 minutes?

My kit came with a Fly Sparge system but I have yet to use it. Batch Sparging seems so easy but I fear I am leaving some sugar behind somehow, somewhere.

Thanks......
 
nope sorry. Rye needs mashed and so does the crushed barley. Check out deathbrewer's partial mash method and see if you can manage that setup. It's pretty simple really. You're probably able to do it if you get a strainer bag.
 
Has anybody ever tried dry-hopping this? I brewed it with chinook and saaz and have a couple ounces of chinook left that I'm planning on dry hopping it with. Not sure how much to use though?
 
Brewed this last Friday, came out with an OG of 1.080 lol, 80% efficiency. This should turn out great, thanks for the recipe.
 
I am brewing this tomorrow but I am going to kind of wing it when it comes to the hops. I have some random hops in the freezer at the moment.
 
Just planning to make an IPA with some first wort hoppage. Came in here to see if anyone else had the same idea and lo and behold, I find this gem!

I'll be using mash hops (Hersbrucker), FWH (Northern Brewer), flavor/aroma additions of Amarillo and Palisade, and dry hopping with East Kent Golding...I'm shooting for more of an English IPA.

I'm not sure about bittering yet...maybe Amarillo? Anyway, looks good, Ed. Similar to my grain bill...I'm using munich and british 50/60. Maybe I'll throw some flaked barley in there, too...thanks for the post.
 
I have been drinking this the past couple days. By far my best brew. Ed's description is dead on - "Spicy, malty, & very tasty!"

I get great lacing and a nitro pour like effect, but no good head retention. Seems to be common across the board with me. I think I need to balance my lines properly, rather than relying on a swizzle stick in the dip tube.
 
This was my first AG batch I did and I love it, though would prefer a little more hoppiness personally. Getting set to do batch #2 of it and will be using chinook and centennial. Thanks for the recipe Ed.
 
Whoops, accidentally order Nottingham instead of the US-05. What difference will it make to just use the Notty?
 
So I'm thinking to brew this, but I have a couple hops I want to use up.
I have 1oz Warrior, 1oz Centennial, 1oz Crystal, 1oz Chinook, & 2oz Cascade.

I like hoppy beers so I was thinking:

10# 2-row
2# Vienna
2# 8oz Rye Malt
8oz Flaked Barley
8oz Crystal 10
6oz Crystal 60

1oz Crystal - FWH
0.5oz Warrior - 60 min
0.5oz Warrior - 20 min
0.5oz Chinook - 20 min
0.5oz Cascade - 10 min
0.5oz Chinook - 1 min
0.5oz Cascade - 1 min
1oz Cascade - 7day Dry Hop

Yeast - White Labs Cali Ale 001 slurry


I know this would change it, but would it muddy the hops & the rye?
 
Two quick questions:
1) What difference is there between using the flaked barley for head/body vs. using carapils/dextrine?
2) when I enter this into beersmith I get much higher IBUs than you enter here, I get 84.4 using Tinseth method, any idea where the discrepancy could be?

Thanks
 
Two quick questions:
1) What difference is there between using the flaked barley for head/body vs. using carapils/dextrine?
2) when I enter this into beersmith I get much higher IBUs than you enter here, I get 84.4 using Tinseth method, any idea where the discrepancy could be?

Thanks

1- I'd say the body is similar but the head retention is different in that the flaked barley makes the head last forever and be very chunky. So stiff that it is like beaten egg whites. You can actually get it to hold a peak. Though this didn't happen until a month in the bottle.

2- maybe your expected FG is lower than Ed's. A lower FG will result in Higher IBU. Also could be pellet vs whole hops.
 
Oh yeah, and this beer is by far my favorite out of all my brews. I like to tweak it just a bit for subtle differences. The one thing I won't change is the amount of flaked barley. Damn it's good!
 
I've got a pound of Cascade and a pound of Chinook that I'm trying to put to use. Could I sub either of these in for the Tettnanger addition, or would it be drastically different?
 
Anyone dry hop this one? Sounds like it doesnt need it but was wondering if anyone had success...

Denny Conn's Wry Smile Rye IPA and Hop Rod Rye are both dry hopped, so I see no reason why you couldn't do the same with this recipe.
 
I just brewed this Saturday and I can't wait to try it. I'd like to try dry hopping for the first time. Should I go with more Chinook, or use Cascade? Those are the two I have on hand.
 
I dry hopped it with an oz. of cascade pellets. I bottled it 10 days ago and am planning on trying my first one on Christmas eve. Ill let ya know how it turns out.
 
Well, I took gravity reading at day 8 and showed 1.015. My OG was 1.06 going in to the fridge. I'm thinking my FG should come in just below 1.01 since my OG was a bit lower than the recipe. My t-stat is set to 62, but the fridge is in my garage which has been pretty cool lately. My fridge temps for the first few days bounced between 59 and 63. I read the lower range for the Safale 05 is 59, so I figured no problem. Now it's freezing outside, and I checked my fridge temps yesterday and it was 52. I planned on leaving it alone for 3 weeks, cold crashing, and kegging, but now I'm wondering if the yeast will be able to finish the job (Assuming it should end up below 1.01).

I thought about bringing it inside for a week to get the temp up a bit (house is anywhere from 67 to 74), but I'd rather just leave it be so I don't slosh it around moving it. The forecast looks like this next week is going to stay pretty cold. I can't decide if I should just leave it alone, or shake it a bit to rouse the yeast, or bring it inside maybe...

Any advise?:confused:

By the way bjzelectric, how'd the dry hopping with Cascade come out?
 
Leave it sit for 3-4weeks then check gravity and package it. Should be done by then. Contrary to what many kit instructions tell you, one week is not long enough for the yeast to finish their work.
 
Leave it sit for 3-4weeks then check gravity and package it. Should be done by then. Contrary to what many kit instructions tell you, one week is not long enough for the yeast to finish their work.

I'm planning to ferment for at least 3 weeks like you recommend, I'm just afraid the yeast will go dormant since I'm several degrees below the ferment range listed for that yeast. The timing isn't what worries me, it's the temp I'm debating on.
 
I tried my first bottle of this the other day. MMMM! Im not good at describing beers but I must say that this one has a nice "bite" to it. Hop and rye bite. The chinook dominate the front while the rye comes thru @ the end and the cascade definately add a nice finish to it. This batch had only been bottled for 2 weeks so it was definately undercarbed and "green" yet delicious. I def recommend dry hopping but Im sure the original is great too.
 
Just curious what you guys are carbing and serving this at. I read that IPAs are generally carbed lower than a regular pale ale, but wheat and rye beers seem to be higher.

How much are you folks carbing this Rye IPA?

And at what serving temps?

Mine turned out great by the way (even with the minimal carbonation has so far).:ban:
 
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