American IPA Bee Cave Brewery IPA

[Walking_Target]

The amarillo dry hop really adds an interesting character to this one. Even without the crystal malt, this has great body and it has a thick, creamy head that just won't go away. Lacing in the glass like crazy!

This is definitely a repeatable brew. Just need more hops

 

[paint_it_black]

Daddio and I are brewing this up right now, sticking with the original recipe. Don't think we've ever used either of these hop varieties before, so it's a bit of a mystery brew for us -- pretty excited to see what comes out.

 

[bandt9299]

Just took a little taste @ 6 weeks old. Kegged 2 weeks ago. Very nice, not the west coast hop bomb some would want but a very tasty and balanced beer. Thanks Ed.

 

[Whipskipper]

This beer was awesome went through a keg this weekend camping everyone loved it even my wife who does not typically like IPAs. I added 2oz of hops in the primary for dry hopping one week prior to kegging. Gonna get ingridents today to brew again.

 

[MisterVitser]

I just used this as the base recipe for my first IPA. Though I subbed around the hops a bit as I had Cascades and Galena (Bittering) in the freezer. Ended up dry hopping it with a combo of Cascades and Pallisades. Which I also used to lightly dry hop the Haus pale recipes you provided as well. I've read a lot of mixed reviews on the pallisades, but they have been really good for me. Thanks for providing great basic recipes for us beginners.

 

[dgr]

Bummer. LHBS gave me a substitute for Warrior hops on this. What they gave me isn't even close. I looked through my stash and it looks like I'm brewing this as an all Centennial IPA. It's either that or let it mash overnight

 

[natural]

This is a really stupid question, but this is going to be my first brew ever and it mentions to dry hop in the keg. I'm not putting this in a keg. I'm going to ferment in my primary as it suggests for 10 days, would I then transfer it to a secondary, not transfer it at all and add the dry hops and let it sit there before pulling them out and then bottle?

Sorry!

Also, just to make sure this is being calculated right and i'm not messing something up but i'm coming up with a strike temperature of 167 with 3.9 gallons of water, 12.5lbs of grain to reach 154f according to brew365.com

 

[bandt9299]

You can do it either way, whatever time permits. I dry hop in the primary all the time.
As far a your calculations go that looks right on the money, although the strike temp seems a little low. using my system when I made this recipe I mashed in at 154 degrees using 172 degree strike water. I don't pre heat my mash tun as some others do. I got a little program years ago that gives me my numbers and is always spot on for 5 gallon batches. Good luck.

 

[SevenFields]

Brace yourselves, Here comes another converting to extract question.......

I have read all 25 pages and Edwort mentioned that you can now buy Munich LME to replace the Munich steeping grains. Is One LB of Munich LME all that is needed to replace the 1 lb of Munich grains?
So I would use 6.7 Golden Light DME and 1# Munich LME???

I am going to attempt to use a Belgian Yeast and hope I get close to Stone Cali-Belique

 

[Hunky]

I'm going to attempt my first all-grain with this recipe and I thought I would go for broke with a 11 gal. batch. Have John Palmer's book but not figuring a few things out, like his sparge calcs. I've read on the beginner forum to figure .5 gals per pound of grain for sparge, so with 22# pale, 2# Munich, and 1.5# Crystal, or 25.5# x .5 gals. equals 12.75 gals of sparge water. Some calculators assume I know how many gallons I want for initial boil, which I don't. Does this seem right? (this assumes you throw the crystal grain into the mash too - right?)

Also, EdWort mentions sparging 3 times. I assume that means dividing that 12.75 gallons into roughly 3, or a bit over 4 gallons per sparge? These are probably best answered elsewhere, but since the quantities are sort of recipe specific, hope you don't mind. cheers, JD

[edit] I fired up Brewtarget for the first time to see what I could do with that. (I'm on linux so not so easy to deal with some other softwares). I had it calculate my target boil size with target batch size at 11 gallons and it came up with 12.6 gallons for target boil size. For conversion, it says about 8 gallons and for sparge it says 8.2 gal. That sounds more realistic. Curious if I'm on the right track? thanks much, JD

 

[Zibe]

The eight gallon figure sounds right I was at about 4 and 4 on a 5.5 gallon batch. 12 gallons sounds right for total amount of wort you need to get out of the system to get 11 gallons after the boil.
I always work backwards. If I want 5.5 gallons in primary then I need about 6.5 gal to go in the kettle as I lose about a gallon in the boil. The grain will soak up about .1 gallons per pound that you won't get back I'll round it to 12lbs for 1.2 gallons. 6.5 gallons plus 1.2 gallons equals 7.2 gallons but I round that up to 8 gallons because I leave some in the tun that is below the drain and some in the kettle with the protein break. May take a few batches to learn your system to see though. I probably made no sense and I'm no expert but my volumes usually work my efficiency is another matter. Just put this on tap and it's another edwort awesome recipe.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[newfiebrew]

Looking forward to brewing this and was wondering if leaving this in the primary for a month instead of only 10 days will result in a lower gravity than 1.016 as the recipie states? Im relatively new to brewing was wondering if time in the primary allows the brewer to control the F.G and thus sweetness of the beer?? Longer in primary meaning a lower f.g and a drier beer or shorter meaning a sweeter one??

thanks.

Jamie.

 

[newfiebrew]

This beer is awesome!!!
Debating on this again or a zombie dust clone��

 

[killerjoe]

I haven't yet tried a recipe that has a dry hopping stage. So I'm curious, do you ferment for one week, then dry hop and leave it for another week? Could you please let me know how should I go about that?

 

[newfiebrew]

I haven't yet tried a recipe that has a dry hopping stage. So I'm curious, do you ferment for one week, then dry hop and leave it for another week? Could you please let me know how should I go about that?

I usually leave alone for 3weeks then dry hop for another week.you want the primary fermentation to be over before you dry hop.

 

[JohnSand]

Another contender for my next brew. A big plus is already having the ingredients on hand.

 

[grevengrevs]

Added to the "to brew" list

 

[JayMtl]

This beer was amazing when I brewed it right following every detail in the recipe. It barely lasted more than 3 weeks in the keg. Will do it again. Wish I had taken a picture.
Jason

 

[janox]

This beer is the best i have ever brewed, without a doubt.
Was doubtful when it was green but after a few weeks it really shines!

Edit: for everyone a bit afraid of the hops in this one (i cant stand all to hoppy beer) no need to back down on the ibu's the body carries it well!

edit 2: Really, do NOT cut back on the hops, i did so by just a little bit and it finished a bit to sweet for me.
Still a great brew!

 

[kingmatt]

Brewing my version of this again today to enter into the NHC...fingers crossed!

 

[Bobcatbrewing42]

Another winner from Bee Cave! Ed comes up with the tastiest recipes that are so simple, that they don't seem right. I did this brew scaled up to 12 gallons and the only brew-day modification was I added an extra oz. Of Summit hops (17%) to the Warrior. All of the numbers came out as he predicted. I kegged 2 corny's. One I dry hopped per Ed's recipe, the other DH with Mosaic as an experiment. The problem is... I had a taste of the first keg when I was checking carbonation, after 3 days. Big mistake! It is so good that I and friends have almost drained that keg long before its' reaching its' peak. I do like the extra bitterness from the Summit. It sneaks up on the back of your tongue and stays there.

 

[Zippox]

I've noticed a few others saying that this beer was a little less hoppy then they had hoped. I am also pretty slow to finish off all the beers from a batch so are there any suggestions on bumping up the IBUs a bit so that it will still be nice and hoppy around the 4 month mark in the bottle?

I saw one poster said that he threw in 1 oz. of Summit hops along side the Warrior. Is that crazy or is that what y'all would recommend?

 

[Zibe]

I guess it depends on what you mean by hoppy. If you want more bitterness then adding to the warrior would be right but you probably want more hop flavor. My recommendation would be maybe just add another ounce of centennial and split it so add .5 oz extra at 5 min and an extra .5 oz in the dry hop. Just my opinion I'm no hop head and I've only brewed it once (thought it was excellent as is)

 

[Zippox]

I guess it depends on what you mean by hoppy. If you want more bitterness then adding to the warrior would be right but you probably want more hop flavor. My recommendation would be maybe just add another ounce of centennial and split it so add .5 oz extra at 5 min and an extra .5 oz in the dry hop. Just my opinion I'm no hop head and I've only brewed it once (thought it was excellent as is)

Thanks Zibe for the idea. Bitterness is my main concern. I recently cracked open a bottle of Summit True Brit which I believe has 61 IBUs -- It was far too mild in bitterness for me. I only worry that 80 may be a bit mild too. Though I do think Summit Saga (approx 80 IBUs) is pretty good but I definitely wouldn't mind just a bit more of a bitterness punch.

It's quite likely I'll make this recipe as-is as many others really enjoy this recipe. Though it's hard not to want to deviate to what I think may strike my fancy more.

 

[Zibe]

Yeah taste is subjective but ibu numbers may not tell the whole story the malt bill backing up the ibu's will make a big difference. Lake Erie Monster from Great Lakes is a double ipa with 80 ibu's but it's sweet not bitter yet I've had pale ales with far lower ibus that I thought were too bitter. I think you're right in just brewing it as is first and adjust from there I don't think you'll be disappointed.

 

[Zibe]

Also the poster that recommended the oz of summit was brewing 12 gallons so if you go that route and only brew 5 gallons i'd half it although if you don't you'll definitely have some high ibus

 

[MongooseMan]

Came out a bit stronger than expected (1.085 for 9.5%), so was a IIPA for me [emoji1]

Really, really good though. Great balance between malt, bitterness and hops.

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[rrhoads]

Gonna try this soon. The recipes I've tried from this brewer have been really good. Nice balance of traditional styles and easy to brew methods. Awesome label/glass by the way.

 

[Zibe]

Just switched to BIAB after batch sparging for years. First BIAB went well tried this as my second and screwed up. Ended up mashing in way to high at 158deg and undershot my gravity so ended at 1.052 OG instead of .065 (didn't have any DME to bump). It's only been 24 hours anything I should do or just let it ride. I've brewed this recipe before batch sparging and it was awesome worried now about 80 ibu's in a 1.052 beer and i mash all my beers at 152 and always have not sure what 158 is gonna do. Oh I also switched the munich for vienna cause I like it better. Any ideas?

 

[Bobcatbrewing42]

Ed's recipes are great in my experience. They look too simple on the face to be that good. I've done this recipe a couple of times and dry hopped with Centennial, Mosaic and Amarillo and all three were terrific. Ed Wort for president!
I usually brew a little over 12 gallons at a time. That is about the most I can do in my keggles to keep boil-overs from messing up the day. Then I use 3, 5 gal carboys for fermenting. With a little more headspace, I don't get yeast overflow anymore. That gives me 3 corny kegs with 4 gal each. I almost always experiment with different yeasts and dry hopping in the three different kegs.