American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

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Any thoughts on swapping out the Cascade hops for a fruity hops as I'm looking for a unique summer pale ale? I'm thinking Galaxy or something similar. Any reason that wouldn't work out?
 
Any thoughts on swapping out the Cascade hops for a fruity hops as I'm looking for a unique summer pale ale? I'm thinking Galaxy or something similar. Any reason that wouldn't work out?

I had the same thoughts and turned this into what will b my house citra pale ale. I fwh Amarillo because I understand citra is not a good bittering hop and Amarillo has nice fruity notes. I then added citra at 15, 10, 5, flameoit and did a whirlpool addition just to try it out. Tried it yesterday after bottling 1 week ago and its delicious, tons of pineapple real smooth bitterness, very drinkable just what I was after.
 
Watch the Nottingham. It goes way too fast, uses a lot of headspace and blows out the tube. The beer tastes like bananas. If I do this again I will make sure that the ferment happens at around 60 degrees.
 
Watch the Nottingham. It goes way too fast, uses a lot of headspace and blows out the tube. The beer tastes like bananas. If I do this again I will make sure that the ferment happens at around 60 degrees.

It seems notty is better at handling the lower temps. I used us-05 on this last batch
 
Hey everyone,
Fairly new to brewing and I haven't done a batch in almost a year....
I want to do a half batch of this and I was wondering if I just take the original recipe and cut everything in half. Any tips are appreciated.
 
Hey everyone,
Fairly new to brewing and I haven't done a batch in almost a year....
I want to do a half batch of this and I was wondering if I just take the original recipe and cut everything in half. Any tips are appreciated.

Yep. That's pretty much it.
 
So I don't have to worry about boil-off volumes? I thought because I'm working with half the amount, that I would need to add more wort to accommodate the same boil off.


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So I don't have to worry about boil-off volumes? I thought because I'm working with half the amount, that I would need to add more wort to accommodate the same boil off.

Boil-off depends on your equipment. Ideally, you would determine your boil-off rate experimentally. If you're using a smaller kettle, boil-off could be less (depends on your boil intensity also).
 
Anyone feel the need to dry hop this? I brewed the original recipe, nailing temps and gravities andI have an extra oz of cascade. Leave it alone, or dry hop it?
 
I wouldn't see why you couldn't. It is not a very hoppy beer, even for a pale ale. That's kinda why I like it in my rotation, but . . .
 
Anyone feel the need to dry hop this? I brewed the original recipe, nailing temps and gravities andI have an extra oz of cascade. Leave it alone, or dry hop it?


1 oz of cascade sounds great. I'd do that the next time making this, probably even sub in a portion of pale ale malt too but then it's almost becoming a Mirror Pond clone.


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So I don't have to worry about boil-off volumes? I thought because I'm working with half the amount, that I would need to add more wort to accommodate the same boil off.

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With regard to scaling recipes, boil-off is a constant gallons per hour number (my rate in my keggle pot in Colorado is right around 2.25 gallons per hour) but is somewhat controllable by intensity of boil. If I do a 5 gallon batch I typically boil 8ish gallons of wort. If I do a 10 gallon batch I boil 13ish gallons. Mash volumes are proportionate but boil volumes have that constant element.
 
1 oz of cascade sounds great. I'd do that the next time making this, probably even sub in a portion of pale ale malt too but then it's almost becoming a Mirror Pond clone.


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I tried that about two years ago using whole Cascade hops. You have to be careful or you'll wind up with grassy beer.
 
I tried that about two years ago using whole Cascade hops. You have to be careful or you'll wind up with grassy beer.

I agree. I limit dry hopping to 5 days and have only used pellets. I dryhopped Edwort's Rye IPA with 1.5 oz of Chinook (5.5 gal batch) and it was perfect. I think this Haus Pale Ale could work with a small dryhop addition and using cascade makes a lot of sense.

Edwort has some great recipes.
 
I love it when a plan comes together.

WP_20140816_009.jpg
 
Planning to brew a small 2.5 gallon of this on Friday. Don't have any c10 on hand, so I'm soaking some 2-row for 30 minutes, roasting @ 350F for 30 minutes. Doing that right now so it can sit for a couple days before mashing. I know most people advocate letting it sit for at least a week, but I don't have the time for that and since it's a light roast, I don't see an issue (and it's only 6% of my grain bill).

Looking forward to my first attempt at this recipe... sounds simple and great!
 
For making your own crystal malt I think you want to soak it for more like 2 hours+ This is a really good resource: http://barleypopmaker.info/2009/12/08/home-roasting-your-malts/

Also, you have to keep it at a lower temp than 350 because you basically want to mash in the husk. Then after that time you can dry it out/roast it. But as far as waiting 1-2 weeks, not necessary in my experience unless you're using darker roasts.
 
For making your own crystal malt I think you want to soak it for more like 2 hours+ This is a really good resource: http://barleypopmaker.info/2009/12/08/home-roasting-your-malts/

Also, you have to keep it at a lower temp than 350 because you basically want to mash in the husk. Then after that time you can dry it out/roast it. But as far as waiting 1-2 weeks, not necessary in my experience unless you're using darker roasts.

Yeah, I read that website, as well as a few other sources. Ultimately, I went with my John Palmer book because it seemed easiest, but shorter times because I'm impatient and I'm a rebel :rockin:. I realize I'm not getting crystal malt out of it, but I don't care :drunk:
 
Brewed this last night. Had a few issues:

Mashed a little warm. I mash BIAB style and last night I was experimenting with keeping the mash warm in my oven. Next time I'll just wrap the pot in blankets.

Over sparged a little and when the boil was done my final volume was just a shade under six gallons.

According to my hydrometer my OG was 1.055.

I'm sure the beer will still be good (hopefully) but it's not going to be a true representation of the recipe. Regardless of outcome I will try to remember to post my results (in about 7 weeks).

Trying a couple of glasses tonight. Despite the issues I had brewing this beer it still turned out pretty good. How good would it have been if I had brewed it properly? I'll try it again sometime soon and find out.

Thanks for posting the recipe Edwort.
 
Starting the boil on this now. Last brew for a friends wedding on the 20th. Slimmed the 2row down a bit, and 5G instead of 5.5 in order to make it ferment a bit faster (slightly less volume, and lower OG) so it'll pitch a bit more and hopefully finish up a bit quicker.

Og is expected to be about 1.045 or so. Not sure if I'm going to do nochill overnight, or chill to 80 and pitch tomorrow. Depends on the time I'm done, and how impatient the gf is getting.

I'll be doing reapers mild tomorrow morning in either case, and bottling about 12 gallons after that. Maybe just bottling, depending on when time schedule as the finished beer is sitting in my parents garage which is up for sale so need to time bottling between viewings...
 
I brewed this a few weeks ago and shared some with my father in law who said it was the best beer he has drank in a long time. I told him where I found the recipe and he said I should write Ed Wort a letter thanking him.

Awesome brew thank you Ed Wort!
 
I GOTTA brew this again...I put a different pale ale on tap and man...it's just not the same. You win.
 
hows the head retention of this beer for everyone??
its been 3 weeks bottle carbing and it gets a quarter inch head that goes after a bit. =/
Think it just needs more time?
 
Just brewed a BIAB batch of this today! This was my first attempt at building water (used distilled water, calcium chloride, gypsum, and acidulated malt) because my previous AG had a funky flavor that I attributed to bad water/bad pH. I really hope it goes well!

I lost a few degrees during the mash. It started at 152, finished at 149 but after I stirred it at the end it was at 143. So maybe this beer will just have a lower FG than planned. It was supposed to be a 2.5 gallon batch but it ended up at just a hair over 2.75 gallons, so my OG was 1.048 instead of 1.051. But all in all I think brewday went pretty well! I pitched rehydrated Notty in it and the swamp cooler is sitting around 55 degrees right now so I'm hoping to ferment this one on the cool side of Notty's range for a clean brew. Here are some pics of my hydro sample:

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Just brewed my first batch of this last night. All went well and pitched a pack of notty directly on top
Of wort like Ed said on first page. No signs of fermenting after 24 hours. At what point should I repitch if fermenting dosent start?
 
It will start. It could take a day or two. Notty is a beast in this beer. The times I have made it with Notty, the fermentation has been violent, but it took a couple of days to take off.
 
This will be my first batch with my new equipment! Received my first grain mill and 110 lbs of grain (55 each of 2 row and MO) for Christmas!

Looking forward to reporting back with results.
 
This is my first try with this extract recipe. I messed up and put in 2# of Munich instead of 1.5, how will this change this beer?
 
This is my first try with this extract recipe. I messed up and put in 2# of Munich instead of 1.5, how will this change this beer?


Minimally. Maybe slightly higher OG and a little more color and breadyness. It'll still be good. Don't sweat the small stuff.
 
I brewed my first batch of this yesterday. Undershot my gravity by 5 points, but it should still come out at a great beer. Looking forward to it.
 
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