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Brewing a 10 gallon variation on this today - keeping it all cascade (Mine are 8.8% AA), but most of my IBU's from late hops and using grains I have on hand.

1.051
40.4 IBU
5.7 SRM

14lbs Maris Otter Pale Malt
3lbs 8oz Vienna Malt
1lb 4oz Crystal 20
8oz Cara-Pils

.25oz Cascade @ FWH
1.5oz @ 30 min
1.75 @ 15 min
1.75 @ 5 min

Gonna split with Nottingham and US-05

How did this turn out for you? I am doing the same hop schedule as I am a little unsure about a full ounce at 60. I hate bitter beers.
 
I need some help on this recipe, I want to follow the origonal hop schedule, but I'm not a big fan of bitter beers, hops yes, I like ipa's.

I dont want this to turn out to be an ipa and im wondering how you liked the original hop schedule. please reply with your beer & hop preferances and any info is good info at this point,
 
I need some help on this recipe, I want to follow the origonal hop schedule, but I'm not a big fan of bitter beers, hops yes, I like ipa's.

I dont want this to turn out to be an ipa and im wondering how you liked the original hop schedule. please reply with your beer & hop preferances and any info is good info at this point,


I wanted to brew this just as the original recipe. I finished brewing it about an hour ago and the gravity sample tasted great.

One thing I thought of doing in the future is more of a hop bursted variation and still use just 2oz total.

0.5oz 60min
1oz 30 min
0.5oz 10min

Not sure of the IBU, but I think you'd get some great flavor from that 30 minute addition.

OR

0.5oz 60min
0.75oz 30min
0.75oz 15min

1oz dry hop for some aroma.


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I wanted to brew this just as the original recipe. I finished brewing it about an hour ago and the gravity sample tasted great.

One thing I thought of doing in the future is more of a hop bursted variation and still use just 2oz total.

0.5oz 60min
1oz 30 min
0.5oz 10min

Not sure of the IBU, but I think you'd get some great flavor from that 30 minute addition.

OR

0.5oz 60min
0.75oz 30min
0.75oz 15min

1oz dry hop for some aroma.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

brew target is calculating it at 15.5 IBU's I am chilling it right now, and getting a fermentor ready! I'll give my 3 cents when finished!
 
Just finished putting 5.5 gallons in the fermentor, my OG using orgonal grain bill was 1.054 @ 65 degrees. the taste was okay, I never can tell until carbbed but it did seem to have some bitterness or astringency to it, very slight hop flavor and that was expected for 15.5 IBU's did a 90 minute boil with cascade hops at this schedule .25 = 60 .25 =45 1.00=30 .5 =15

ferment chamber is set to 68 degrees and thats where itll go for 7-10 days, dont know if I'll secondary, but it'll get cold crashed and kegged.

I used the nottingham, I usually use uso5 but I figured I'd five this a try, I followed the batch sparge in origonal with one difference. I started my mashin at 4:30 am and went to bed, woke at 10 am and finished, my mashin temp was 150-151 and by 10 am it was at 138 degrees. water for 2nd runnings was 175 degrees but was deduced to 150-155 when added,

This is one of the first times I was carful not to disturb the grain bed on the vorloff,

one other note: I used crystal 20 rather than 10, also as the room temp rises in my house the hyd sample is reading 1.056 Dang! this might be a big one!
 
I hit 1.056 on about 5.3 gallons into the fermentor. I followed the original recipe exactly except I used 05 instead of notty since the brew shop didn't have it. Should be fun to compare ours in a few weeks


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I hit 1.056 on about 5.3 gallons into the fermentor. I followed the original recipe exactly except I used 05 instead of notty since the brew shop didn't have it. Should be fun to compare ours in a few weeks


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sounds great! 10 am today, I checked on it and we have lift off! airlock was active. as of 7pm it was very active!:ban:

A little bit of matter was working its way into the airlock. I may have to add a blow off tube since there was only aprox 3 inches of head space in the fermentor, but I hope I dont have to. :smack::smack::smack:
 
sounds great! 10 am today, I checked on it and we have lift off! airlock was active. as of 7pm it was very active!:ban:



A little bit of matter was working its way into the airlock. I may have to add a blow off tube since there was only aprox 3 inches of head space in the fermentor, but I hope I dont have to. :smack::smack::smack:


Same with mine. Not extremely vigorous as I'm fermenting in my crawl space so it's pretty cool (about 60). But I'm hoping for a nice, clean fermentation from it.


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Same with mine. Not extremely vigorous as I'm fermenting in my crawl space so it's pretty cool (about 60). But I'm hoping for a nice, clean fermentation from it.


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Came home this morning to the lid blown off! lol! alleast it was in the temp controled mini with a floor pan. I learned from the last blow out! ha ha]

IMG_20140414_082832.jpg
 
Brewing this today, now that it's "spring" here in Massachusetts...woke up to snow on my car...oh Nature...

Cheers for the recipe Edwort, always been your fan.
 
Question??? I just recently brewed this beer and let it sit for 9 days in primary and then kegged. Been in the kegerator for 15 days at 12psi and 39F. Not sure if this is supposed to taste like a white ale, but mine is really sweet. Being a noob at all grain and hitting the OG and FG almost dead on ....trying to figure out why it's so sweet? Any pointers from the pros? It's smooth and clear, but the sweetness bothers me. Hops were on que. Would putting the hops in a small muslin bag cause this? Just looking back to what I did and this would be the only reason I can think of.

Thanks
 
I brewed an English pale ale as my first beer and put the hops in a bag and I felt like it came out way too sweet. I always just throw them in now and use a strainer when I transfer out of the brew kettle.


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Also, try 14 days in the primary. 9 days is pretty short. Almost all my beers I run 3 weeks in the primary. Never had a problem with this beer being to sweet. Mash temperature could also play a role in your beer being sweet. Maybe check your temps at mash time. I had that problem one time where my temps were to low at mash time.
 
Made this beer Sunday, with some changes. I have tried the centennial recipe four times and like it a lot. Wanted to make a beefier version, so I used the grain bill from this recipe. Mashed ninety minutes at 152 got an OG of 1.052. Boiled it with the centennial ale hop schedule but added a half ounce of dry hops to the fermenter. Pitched safale 05 at 68. Have had attenuation issues with this yeast in the past, wimping out early. This time I got good bubbling at twelve hours. On day three my place got cold so I threw the bucket in the trunk and drove thirty miles to my mom's house. Half hour later beige foam was bubbling out of the airlock! All that sloshing invigorated the yeast. Two hours later it subsided. Day four bubbling ceased. Took a hydro: 1.012. I may use this trick again with safale 05, drive the beer to goose the yeast. Sample tasted awesome.
 
shadows69....I checked the mash with 2 different thermometers so I'm pretty sure I was good there. Efficiency was almost 80%. I'mgoing to probably try it again and pitch the hops pellets directly instead of the muslin bags. I believe that the wort just didnt get a chance to flow properly through them since they were pretty swelled up and no room to expand further. You learn as you go. Thanks for the pointer!
 
Bagging hops is fine, you just have to smash the bag against the pot wall with your paddle a few times during the boil to get the good stuff out of them. This might not be easy with a keggle.
 
I was thinking of this for my first AG BREW:

Keeping the same grain bill as original recipe


Cascade 1oz @ 60min
Citra/ Cascade .5 ea @ 30min
Citra .25oz @ 15min
Citra .25oz @ 5 min

then dry hop with .5oz ea of Citra/Cascade for 4 days.

Any thoughts, I'm sure I'm way off with amounts and whatnot but its a start I guess. I'm trying to go for a more juicy, tropical pale ale than a real bitter one.
 
Question??? I just recently brewed this beer and let it sit for 9 days in primary and then kegged. Been in the kegerator for 15 days at 12psi and 39F. Not sure if this is supposed to taste like a white ale, but mine is really sweet. Being a noob at all grain and hitting the OG and FG almost dead on ....trying to figure out why it's so sweet? Any pointers from the pros? It's smooth and clear, but the sweetness bothers me. Hops were on que. Would putting the hops in a small muslin bag cause this? Just looking back to what I did and this would be the only reason I can think of.

Thanks

did you figure it out? I believe the sweetness comes from the crystal 10, and gets sweeter with the higher #, for example a crytal 70 would be really sweet, thats what I was told anyway!
 
I was thinking of this for my first AG BREW:

Keeping the same grain bill as original recipe


Cascade 1oz @ 60min
Citra/ Cascade .5 ea @ 30min
Citra .25oz @ 15min
Citra .25oz @ 5 min

then dry hop with .5oz ea of Citra/Cascade for 4 days.

Any thoughts, I'm sure I'm way off with amounts and whatnot but its a start I guess. I'm trying to go for a more juicy, tropical pale ale than a real bitter one.

On your hop schedule, If you want less bitter switch it around
Cascade .25oz @ 60min
Citra/ Cascade .5 ea @ 30min
Citra .75oz @ 15min
Citra .1.00oz @ 5 min

I would try this, and dryhop an ounce at racking to secondary. I found sock hops dont allow the oils to be fully utilized so dont use a bag,

The rule is the longer the hop boils the more bitter it becomes. I didn't figure this out untill batch 6! haha! oh well. I also find that a rolling boil vs mild boil makes a difference.
 
Olotti, as a mattter a fact, I went back and checked my hop schedule. all were cascade and this is what I wrote

"brew target tells me it will be slightly hoppy with this schedule
.25 = 60 .25 =45 1.00=30 .5 =15

So thats what Ill do! "

Its still in secondary because I have way too much beer on hand right now! so I cant tell you the taste.
I may bottle condition this one!
 
yewtah-brewha, yes I did. I tried it again and hit the FG and OG near the same. Fermented at same temp, BUT pitched the hops into the wort rather than placing them in the muslin bag and it came out a lot better. Not sweet like the last one which could've been a Blue Moon white ale clone. From a little talk I had at Cigar City with one of the brewers he mentioned that if the hops swelled up and had no room to swell anymore I literally created a hardened ball of hops. The wort wasn't able to pass through it. Learned from that one....I now own larger muslin bags. Sunday I'm doing the Ed's House Kolsch.
 
Is it to much to add .5 oz ea of citra and cascade at 30 min?? Should I do just Cascade at 0.5 oz at 30 min then add 0.5 oz of Citra at FO instead. As my first batch I have no idea how Cascade is as a bittering hop but maybe its better at 60 and 30 min and then Citra the rest of the way??? I guess as long as I hit my numbers it should be a good drinkeable beer and I still have to find out if the LHBS has both hops, plus the AA's will be different so I'd have to adjust for that I assume too??? Any help would be great.
 
Really like this beer. I've made it twice now and it'll have a go to spot on my list when I need a pale ale. A breeze to brew, inexpensive to make but very quality for what you end up with.

Mine got leaps and bounds better after 1-1.5 weeks in cold storage. Gelatin helped speed up the process.

pale.jpg
 
olotti,

You may want to simply cut back on the bittering addition based on the AA of your hops. The original recipe used cascade with 6.6% AA, the cascade I've been buying is 7.5%. So i lower the bittering addition to get it where I want it on my brewing software before I brew.

Brewers friend is a pretty decent calculator IMO. Put the hops in with the AA value listed for what you have and adjust your bittering amount until it is where you want it.
 
Hey guys doing this the w/e as my first all grain can somebody tell me what temp to heat my strike water so that after the grain is added the temp is approximately 152 deg that I'll hold for 60 min. I'm using a 40g Coleman cooler.

Thanks
 
Hello I am going to brew this for the 2nd time as I believe I may have fermented at too high a temp my first time.I just wanted to check on the malt before I order the grains.Is this 2 row malt (1.7-2L) the same as 2 row pale malt suggested in the recipie and if not would it make much difference if I used it.

http://www.torontobrewing.ca/servlet/the-89/2-dsh-Row-Malt-1.7-dsh-2L/Detail

thanks.
 

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