Weissbier Bee Cave Brewery Bavarian Hefeweizen

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Should we boil for 90 minutes to decrease DMS?

I don't believe anyone ever answered this question and I was wondering the same.

From everything I've read you need to boil for 90 minutes when using Pilsner malt to remove DMS.

What are your thoughts in regards to this recipe?
 
I don't believe anyone ever answered this question and I was wondering the same.

From everything I've read you need to boil for 90 minutes when using Pilsner malt to remove DMS.

What are your thoughts in regards to this recipe?

I personally am not going to worry with a 90 minute boil. If there was more pilsner malt in it then I would, but for just a few pounds I'm just going to boil hard for 60 min. and make sure that I cool fast too. Thats just my opinion though.

I'm going to brew this in a few weeks with crystal hops. I have a crap load on hand from hops direct and their supposedly a substitute for hallerteu.
 
is 0.5lb rice hulls enough? How is the lauter with 7 pounds of wheat?

I'm scared, i've done a dunkel with 5.5 lb wheat and a cream ale with 1.2 lb flaked corn; both had stuck sparges. but, i didn't mashout either of those, i can't really with my system, unless i decoct.
 
ok, cool.

I was thinking of decocting to get to mashout, does anyone see a prob with this?

I have a 5 gallon mash tun, and with 11.5 lb grain and ~14 quarts of water, there's no room for the extra gallon of boiling water it'd take to get to mashout.

edit: i guess it's an even 11 pounds of grain; anyone know how to NOT include rice hulls in the grain bill on beersmith?
 
I don't do a mashout for this recipe, and with 1 pound of rice hulls it has worked fine so far. I have done the recipe twice.
 
Going to make this on Sunday, quick question about a yeast starter with 3068/WLP300:

Will it coldcrash/settle down like a normal starter so you can decant all of the liquid off? This will be my first time using hefe yeast. I just know in hefeweizens there's a tonne of suspended yeast so I was wondering if you really have to pitch the whole starter due to wanting those floaties still.
 
Just make a 750ml starter, and dump the whole thing in.

I was also thinking that a starter might not be needed for the hefe, since you kind of want the yeast to work harder to produce the flavors....but it's just a thought I have.
 
Well I only have extra dark DME on hand, so I'm unsure if I want to dump that into a precious light hefe. Maybe this will be a good time to try out real-wort starters. I no-chill cube so that should be doable, just throws off my schedule.
 
Ok. Did not know you only had dark DME.

I used the wyeast 3068 in my last 5 gallon batch, and I did NOT do a yeast starter for that one. It turned out just fine.
 
Ended up using a 2L real wort starter, pitched on Monday night. Last night the ferment transitioned from the usual rhino farts to a heavenly banana aroma. I'm getting excited.
 
Has anyone tried this recipe with Wyeast 3056? I'm brewing this right now, and since my supplier didn't have any 3068 I went with the 3056.

I use 3056 in this because I can't control temps very well which is critical to getting a good outcome with the 3068. It has always come out very nice, although I think the 3068 would make it a little more authentic. I always get good feedback from my homebrewclub from this beer as well.
 
I use 3056 in this because I can't control temps very well which is critical to getting a good outcome with the 3068. It has always come out very nice, although I think the 3068 would make it a little more authentic. I always get good feedback from my homebrewclub from this beer as well.

Thanks for the fast reply!

That sounds very good! I guess I should really be using the 3068 then, since I have made a temperature control chamber. What fermentation temp do you recommend for the 3056? The temperature I measure is the actual temp of the beer, not the environment temp.

The tastes I'm heading for are a bit estery and banana and clove flavors. I do not want to make a very anonymous and boring beer :)
 
Thanks for the fast reply!

That sounds very good! I guess I should really be using the 3068 then, since I have made a temperature control chamber. What fermentation temp do you recommend for the 3056? The temperature I measure is the actual temp of the beer, not the environment temp.

The tastes I'm heading for are a bit estery and banana and clove flavors. I do not want to make a very anonymous and boring beer :)

I ferment mine at about 70-75 ambient, since that's about as cool as I can get my apartment. I am not sure what that translates to for the actual wort temperature.

At those temps I usually get some clove and some banana, but it's not "Banana Bread Beer". It's definitely not generic tasting in my opinion as most of the hefe's we get here in the states are watered down and usually are done with American Wheat yeast. In my opinion, the 3056 is a great alternative for the 3068, especially if you can't do the temp control thing.
 
brewed this up saturday. after a(nother) difficult mash, it ended up ok.

my basement's at 66F according to my thermometer, which is accurate, but my carboy thermometer reads 72F...fermentation throwing out that much heat? I assumed 3-4F max. maybe it just reads high.
 
brewed this up saturday. after a(nother) difficult mash, it ended up ok.

my basement's at 66F according to my thermometer, which is accurate, but my carboy thermometer reads 72F...fermentation throwing out that much heat? I assumed 3-4F max. maybe it just reads high.
I've measured a dry stout (OG 1052) at 20 C (68 F) while the temperature in the room was 12 C (53,5 F)! So yes, the yeast can produce A LOT of heat!
 
yikes. time to break out the tub and ice packs when i get home...

also, i pulled my first decoction to try to get to mashout. i pulled about a gallon of wort at mash consistency (~1.25 quarts per pound) and boiled it. only raised the mash temp about 10 degrees, from about 152 to 162. thought that was strange.
 
In the book "Brewing Classic Styles" it is recommended to ferment at 17 C (62,6 F) with the 3068 yeast. Anyone tried to stay around this temperature to see how it differs from 20 C (68 F)?
 
62F? Wyeast recommends 64F to 75F....seems like strange information.

like i said before, i fermented a dunkel pretty cool (63-64F) and it was all clove and no banana. spicy clove.
 
I made a hefe last month using the 3068 strain and I fermented at 62F for two weeks. I kegged 5 gallons and had enough left for a 12 pack. It's been in the keg for a week now and to me I would say that the banana and clove aroma/taste are more pronounced. I've made hefe's before using the same strain and fermenting at around 68F, and the aroma/taste was more subdued. But these are my opinions. You guys need to try it yourself and see what you think. I was skeptical at first after reading brewing classic styles but to me it's better. I'l be making a dunkelweiss soon and will ferment at 62F also. Should be interesting.
 
62F? Wyeast recommends 64F to 75F....seems like strange information.

like i said before, i fermented a dunkel pretty cool (63-64F) and it was all clove and no banana. spicy clove.

I think Wyeast's numbers are just a guideline. You can usually ferment lower than recommended. You can of course ferment higher as well, but it would probably produce some off-flavors.

With most of the belgian yeasts I think Wyeast are a bit conservative.
 
I brewed 10 gallons of this about a month ago and used the WLP300 yeast with a starter that a little less than 24 hours old. I split the batch up into two 5 gallon fermentors. One I kept in the house, and the other in the garage, so there may have been some temperature fluctuations. I would estimate that primary fermentation temp was around 56-64F ambient most of the time. The problem is it's been over three weeks in primary for these two beers and the indorr one is at 1.015 and the one in the garage is at 1.017. A little bit high and I was planning on bottling them. Any thoughts on why the F.G. is so high? I've already thrown both batches into the fridge to start cold crashing. Do you think I should take them out and warm them up for a few more days? Sorry for the novel its just that I hit all my numbers for this brew, mashed at 153F for the full hour and am somewhat dissapointed by the weak attenuation..
 
i'm in your same boat. i mashed at 153F for 90 min and only got down to 1.014. Fermented at about 64F ambient, I pitched a decanted 1500mL starter.

has a definite sweetness that isn't really appealing. oh well, next time i think I'll mash around 150.
 
hm, mine's hanging around 1.014...what are you guys getting down to with 3068?

Just checked my gravity after 4 days in primary (couldn't resist), and had a 1.010. I also boiled the wort a little too long, and ended up with OG of 1.058, so looks like this'll be stronger than I anticipated. Fermented with 3068, and no starter (ran out of time to make one; I know, horrible).

I taste-tested my gravity measurement, and it was awesome other than the slight bit of sulfur on the end. The fermentation was originally putting out quite a bit of sulfur smell, but a litte more time sitting around should take care of that in the taste. Great recipe, looking forward to trying this bad boy!
 
IPAAAA - The strong consensus on the forum is to use a starter for liquid yeast. Check out http://www.mrmalty.com/ for recommended pitching amounts.

I have never made a starter so that is why I ask since I don't know what I am doing when it comes to that.

I have a bag of regular dme left...can I use that for the starter or would a wheat dme be the way to go?
 
Btw...you guys say to soak the rice hulls. That in cold or warm water?
 
O...thought I read earlier that edwort said he soaks them in water for 30 minutes. So just toss them in with the mash and I'm good to good?
 
I know he mentioned to soak them. You can do it if you want to. I did not do it, and it worked just fine. Just mix them in with the rest of the grains :)
 

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