BCS 2 Vessel No Sparge Garage Brewery Build

[bayoujeeper]

http://m.ebay.com/itm/CR-Horizontal...nsor-Stainless-Steel-/121347212357?nav=SEARCH

Something like that then just a washer and on the inside a silicone washer and a nut. All 1/2 Npt

Sweet! Nice and simple. Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks.

 

[poptarts]

Yea no problem. Let me know of you needs specific pics or anything

 

[poptarts]

Got a crap ton of goodies in the mail. Decided to stop waiting on ebrew.supply and bought my BCS from brewershardware. I think I have everything purchased to complete the build, just have to wait for it to all show up. Going to try to finish up the plumbing this by weekend and get started on the panel.

 

[poptarts]

SSRs and some cable sleeve. Pretty much waiting on lights and switches and an order from ebrew.supply.

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[TrickyDick]

Nice!
Maybe the spelling can be improved with a new keyboard!
Waiting to see where you out the mechanical ball valves, and wondering if they will be in contact with wort or not.
Those Korean lids are SS?
How did those TC plates work with the float switches? Did you have them welded?
What is the latest on the panel? How well do those carbide hole saws work on SS?

TD

 

[poptarts]

Nice!
Maybe the spelling can be improved with a new keyboard!
Waiting to see where you out the mechanical ball valves, and wondering if they will be in contact with wort or not.
Those Korean lids are SS?
How did those TC plates work with the float switches? Did you have them welded?
What is the latest on the panel? How well do those carbide hole saws work on SS?

TD

The first diagram in the first post shows where I plan to put the valves, they are labeled A. They will definitely contact wort, but they are SS and rated for it so no issues. Lids are aluminum. For the TC floats I just cut a hole in a blank plate and did a weldless bulkhead style nut and washer to mount the switch. Nothing to report on panel, still waiting on switches and lights. The saws are complete trash, half the teeth broke off on the first hole. I will stick with the classic cheap amazon step bit and my favorite dewalt 7/8 hole saw from now on.

 

[TrickyDick]

Thanks. I can't quite follow that flow chart, but seems you know what you're up to.
Won't be fun periodically cleaning the threaded ball valves was all I was thinking.
Super score on the $15 keg by the way!
Can't wait to see the rest of this build!
I struggled with the bottom port design idea on my eBrew build. The worst part for me is no floor drain so I will need to be very careful not to make a big mess! You've probably got a plan for that carpeting I assume, or was that in a different room?
So it's a direct heated mash tun with element below the false bottom?
What is your chiller? I had considered using my copper cfc as a heat exchanger/Herms and do away with the HLT.
What's the sparge plan?
What is the sight glass for, to see when runoff is clear?
Is this going to be a hard plumbed setup?

Keep the pics coming!!

TD

Edit-

In response to your reply regarding float switches from the other thread, seemed more appropriate to respond here instead.

I learned that there are non mechanical float switches, and that mechanical float switches can be prone to failure. Might be worth a look see if you run into problems with those mechanical switches. My float switches look like yours, but I have not received them yet. They will arrive tomorrow. I had a welder try to convert them to TC for me, but they didn't tolerate the welding temps, as I guess there was some epoxy that melted or something. I've been on a quest to eliminate the threaded fittings and the floats are the only hold outs, which will only be in the HLT anyway.

 

[poptarts]

Im hoping a hot PBW wash and rinse will make it so I don't have to take apart stuff nearly as often. I plan on using a decent amount of camlocks so they are easy to pop off and clean though if need be.
My plan is to have a drain system that drains into a bucket. The system is in the garage, the carpet is scrap junk just so I dont have to stand on cold concrete. I have no plumbing in the garage so no drains or anything. I manage well with my current system and this style setup so hopefully its not a nightmare.
Correct element will be under false bottom in the MLT. then it will recirc during mash for RIMS style temp management. My chiller is a DIY counterflow chiller, no plans to upgrade at the moment. The system will be no sparge, so full water volume will be present during mash. If we are being honest the sight glass is pretty much bling but it will allow me to see, color and flow of the wort during mash. I will be doing "hard" plumbing with silicone hose, they will be camlocked in place again for cleaning as needed. I hate hose swaps, so the hope is to completely eliminate them from the system fully. This should allow for pretty much full automation as well. I will need to mash in, then add hops and needed but outside of that it should be hands off. However I have plans for a phase 2, to rig up a timer motor with BCS to make it so I don't even have to do hop additions manually.

 

[poptarts]

In response to your reply regarding float switches from the other thread, seemed more appropriate to respond here instead.

I learned that there are non mechanical float switches, and that mechanical float switches can be prone to failure. Might be worth a look see if you run into problems with those mechanical switches. My float switches look like yours, but I have not received them yet. They will arrive tomorrow. I had a welder try to convert them to TC for me, but they didn't tolerate the welding temps, as I guess there was some epoxy that melted or something. I've been on a quest to eliminate the threaded fittings and the floats are the only hold outs, which will only be in the HLT anyway.

Ah yea, I have yet to see any non threaded ones. Mine are basically mechanical safety features to prevent dry fire on elements and running pumps dry. I will have it coded in a way so they hopefully they don't really need to be there at all but its always nice to have as much safety as possible with electrical and water I believe. And yea i'm just not super concerned about threaded fittings for hot side stuff like this, They may not be the most sanitary but they don't have to be either since they get hot. Plus im cheap and those are not.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Subbed for sure, I like the stand build and your control panel is a likely candidate for my v2 build.

Thanks Poptarts

 

[poptarts]

Subbed for sure, I like the stand build and your control panel is a likely candidate for my v2 build.

Thanks Poptarts

Here is a link to the panel if you want to own your own monster, I offered $75 for it and they took it so you might be able to even go lower than that.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Thanks Poptarts.

<Edit> I'm a dummy and can't read a thread title

-B

 

[poptarts]

Yea this thread should probably be moved into electric brewing haha.
Edit: Done an done, thanks to yooper.

 

[thekraken]

sub'ed

With only a two vessel system do you think you could get away with just one pump? I ask because that's my plan at the moment.

 

[poptarts]

sub'ed

With only a two vessel system do you think you could get away with just one pump? I ask because that's my plan at the moment.

Easily if you are okay doing hose swaps, or got ahold of a large amount of valves. Only one pump should be running at a time. For me with electric valves it was a very close price to just buy a second pump over buying more valves and fittings. Makes the plumbing a lot more simple too.

 

[TrickyDick]

One thing I am worried about in the transition to electric is the hose swaps with TC fittings, and spilling sweet sticky wort all over when I do so. Brewing outside is no big deal, but indoors is another matter.
What kind of connections are you planning to use for hose swaps?

TD

 

[poptarts]

I plan on no hose swaps. Cause they suck

 

[BrunDog]

They do suck indeed.

 

[poptarts]

Picked up a few electrical items and a new bit. Pretty stoked for a real pair of crimpers. And this bit works awesome for panel holes and drilling holes in SS for 1/2 Npt stuff.

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[TrickyDick]

Let us know how that crimp tool works!

 

[poptarts]

Did some electrical work today. I suck at soldering wire apparently. After the 20 XLR connectors I should be pro.

View attachment 1447477296204.jpg

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[BrunDog]

Looks more like you suck at taping! I would recommend heat shrink tubing over tape.

Also, though it's going to be fine, stranded wire would usually be preferred for tight bends and wires that move during service at all.

-BD

-BD

 

[TrickyDick]

I hate soldering XLR connectors too. I found a soldering gun worked better than the pencil.

TD

 

[poptarts]

Looks more like you suck at taping! I would recommend heat shrink tubing over tape.

Also, though it's going to be fine, stranded wire would usually be preferred for tight bends and wires that move during service at all.

-BD

-BD

Yea I was going to use heat shrink but the stuff I bout was too small so I just decided to give tape a try. And yea I can get behind the stranded wire but since this stuff is like 24awg its fairly flexible. Maybe the others will look better and this one can hide in the back haha, or I can just say if it looks bad drink more homebrew

 

[poptarts]

Alright BD redid it

View attachment 1447522077645.jpg

 

[BrunDog]

Sooo nice! Don't you feel better!?! [emoji12]

-BD

 

[poptarts]

Indeed, I doubt it will function any better but might as well make it look nice if i'm dumping the time into blinging everything else out haha. I have all 5 valves wired and plan on doing the 4 float switches tonight. Stuff takes me forever. Also got the second hole drilled into the other tri clamp cap. Those things are such a beast to cut without a drill press.
My 110v Lights came and most of my contactors. Waiting a few more pieces from china but post says they are in america so they should be here this week. Then its just left to waiting on Ebrew.Supply to ship out my stuff, I guess they just moved and are lagging behind a bit. And then my big order of pump / hose / bcs from brewers hardware. After that its time to get building this thing for real. I want to run a beer through it over christmas.

 

[poptarts]

Ball valves and float switches all wired up!

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[thekraken]

So what does the BCS use those float switches for? To prevent dry firing or overfilling vessels? Does the BCS support any kind of liquid level sensors?

 

[poptarts]

no level sensing at the moment that I know, I believe that have it planned for the future. Im using the floats to kill the elements and or pumps to prevent dry fire. They wont really interact with the BCS at all and just be a switch between the relays. They are more of a safety feature than anything. The code should prevent this all together ideally.