bazooka filter in my mash tun

[guidos858]

OK, so here's the deal. I've had a couple of stuck sparges due to the manifold coming apart while I'm mixing the mash to assure even temps throughout. I'm wondering if a bazooka filter will work in my mash tun? Will the grain collect enough around the screen to clog it enough to create a stuck sparge? I've been reading that using rice hulls helps. I've also been reading that a thinner mash helps?

 

[jdauria]

I have a bazooka screen in my 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler and have not had an issue with a stuck sparge, have used it about 6-7 times so far. As long as lauter done slowly to set the grain bed and then draining of tun done slowly, should not be an issue. Of course using rye, pumpkin and other ingredients that are more likely to cause a stuck sparge, then rice hulls definitely help.

 

[guidos858]

Cool !! I'm gonna give it a try !!

 

[bd2xu]

I use a false bottom in my 10 gallon round cooler. It's the type with legs so it sits up off the bottom and there's actually a gallon of liquid under it. I was still getting too much grain going through so I added a bazooka and its been great. But it's acting as a secondary, finer filter. Only issue I'd worry about using only a bazooka is it might crush under heavy grain weight but will prob be ok. A lot of people use stainless braided hose and don't have too many problems crushing. So i think a bazooka screen would work but would not be ideal. From everything I've read I think a false bottom is best, gives the most uniform drainage through the grain bed. In palmers book there is a good appendix on building MLT filters and false bottom gets the best overall reviews I think. This is a very important part of the AG process, extracting your sugar, so id try to invest here in the most effective, efficient method. Not a place to skimp. I think first choice false bottom and second choice copper manifold covering the whole bottom. You really want to avoid channeling so need the filter, whatever it is, to cover as much of the bottom of the MLT as possible.

 

[guidos858]

Yeah,
I'd love to use a false bottom but I'm using a rectangular cooler and I don't believe they make a false bottom for this type of cooler. I made a manifold out of cpvc and it works great !! The only problem is that I keep pulling it apart while I'm stirring the grain. I probably get a little forceful with my stirring but I don't want dough balls, they wreck your efficiency.

I haven't glued the whole thing together because I want to be able to take the manifold apart in order to clean inside the tubes. But I may just glue the whole damn thing together !! If it gets too dirty I'll just throw it away and make another one !!

I figure a bazooka screen screws right on to the nipple so it won't pull off. And even if the screen bends a little bit, it will be close enough to the bottom that it won't kink so I should be ok.

 

[bd2xu]

True on the rectangular cooler, I've never seen a false bottom for one but why doesn't someone make one... Hmmmmm.... I have never understood why to choose a rectangle cooler or square vs round. I know they are popular but I don't get it, never seen a rectangle or square kettle or keggle... but I digress. Anyway, I would glue it together and maybe consider creating a bigger hole with a removable cap on one end to help flush it. Either way I think a manifold that covers the bottom is going to be more effective than a bazooka screen.

 

[guidos858]

Thanks for the advice. I actually took it !! I went to lowes yesterday and found a 1/2" cpvc "union" that's going to work tremendously !! Now the whole thing is glued together and screws right on to the brass nipple leading to my valve. So that way I can unscrew it and take it off. I reworked my manifold yesterday, tried it and it worked!! I'm brewing today so I'll post how it went tonight.

 

[bd2xu]

Thanks for the advice. I actually took it !! I went to lowes yesterday and found a 1/2" cpvc "union" that's going to work tremendously !! Now the whole thing is glued together and screws right on to the brass nipple leading to my valve. So that way I can unscrew it and take it off. I reworked my manifold yesterday, tried it and it worked!! I'm brewing today so I'll post how it went tonight.

Awesome post a pic of it when you can

 

[StMarcos]

Why is it that the standard 3/32 false bottom holes seem much larger than bazooka screen? If bazookas don't clog, you'd think they'd make the fbs smaller.

 

[mvcorliss]

When it comes to efficiency differences between a bazooka screen / braided hose vs a manifold it really depends on whether you are doing a fly or a batch sparge. A fly sparge is very dependent on the even flow of sparge water through the entire grain bed. Therefore a well designed manifold or false bottom is needed. Because of the way batch sparging works, all you need to do is make sure you drain as much of the sparge water as possible. In that case, a bazooka screen works fine. And I've had as much as 18 lbs of grain on top of mine without crushing it. I think if would be fine with plenty more grain.

 

[bd2xu]

When it comes to efficiency differences between a bazooka screen / braided hose vs a manifold it really depends on whether you are doing a fly or a batch sparge. A fly sparge is very dependent on the even flow of sparge water through the entire grain bed. Therefore a well designed manifold or false bottom is needed. Because of the way batch sparging works, all you need to do is make sure you drain as much of the sparge water as possible. In that case, a bazooka screen works fine. And I've had as much as 18 lbs of grain on top of mine without crushing it. I think if would be fine with plenty more grain.

Very good point and Palmers book has a great section in the back about manifold designs, and which ones are best for fly and batch sparging.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-1.html

The actual book has more detail: