Bayou Classic KAB6

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FullDraw

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I'm not one to be the guinea pig, but I pulled the trigger on this. It's the new model KAB6 Banjo from Bayou Classic. I will say that I've got nothing to compare this to, nor have I ever. It's been in my hands for 15 minutes. I put the stick on this for some measurements and will be happy to measure any other parts, just let me know. I will say that it's heavier stock than I expected. Here you are...

Side





To the bend (keg centered)


From the top of the burner


*****Modification for better efficiency on post #19*****
 

FSR402

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If it's like the other ones that are that far from the top of the stand it's not going to work worth a crap. Let us know how it goes. You made need to lift the burner closer to the keggle.
 

Brewmasters Warehouse

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I'm not one to be the guinea pig, but I pulled the trigger on this. It's the new model KAB6 Banjo from Bayou Classic.
Thanks for being the guinea pig. I stumbled on this thread a few days ago, and then a received the new catalog in the mail. Thanks to your pics I added it onto the website. It is nice to see something that can safely handle the size of a keg.

Thanks,

Ed
 

GOOCHY

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I have one of these burners that I haven't used quite yet. Are some of you arguing that it's not going to work properly?
 
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FullDraw

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No problem Ed.

I haven't fired it up yet, but my test will simply be hot tap water (~150 or so), 12 gallons, timed from start to boil. I'm not wasting time heating up cold water.

There's a thought that the space between the burner itself and the bottom of the pot (or keg in this case) may be too much. I've got some thoughts for a modification, but will test it out stock first.
 

Bokonon

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There was a post yesterday on the AHA Techtalk mailing list where someone was asking about this burner and about gas usage. He said they went through almost a full tank in something like 60 minutes and asked for advice. There might be some replies today

When you do your test run you might want to throw your propane tank on a scale so you can monitor your usage as well
 
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Scrapped the test 10 minutes in. I did 6 gallons of 115 degree water. In 10 minutes, it was 129*. That's piss poor. You can see that the flames don't even lick the supports that are 4 inches high. And 30 psi regulator is overkill, you just blow out the flame. I think Springer did 12.5gal in 40 minutes (modified). I wasn't wasting more gas (~1/2 #) on this one. I'm now working on a solution (non welding first), but may have to get a buddy to reweld for me.
 

mandoman

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Man, don't tell me that - I just ordered one. I like the idea of the banjo vs. the straight flame turkey cooker burner but not if it's 4 inches from the bottom of my keggle. WTF. I guess I'll try mine, modify it if necessary, and post.
 

Iechyd Da

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I have the KAB6 also and did a couple tests. It rocks for my 13g pot and SUCKS for my Keggle. For the pot, 10g water from 65F to a boil in 29 mins. For the keggle, 10g water at 110F to a boil 40 mins. I agree, I think the 30 psi regulator is overkill and am going to replace it with a 20 psi and move the burner up an inch or 2.
 
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FullDraw

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Sorry mandoman. I will say that the supports (at least on mine) are not welded the whole length. I'll be cutting mine, sliding up the whole burner/wind assembly, then attaching it again. I'm just trying to figure out the attaching thing. Otherwise, it should be nice. Here's my mockup of how i'd like it to look.

 

mandoman

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No that's cool, good to know. I guess as long as it is quieter and/or more efficient I will be happy doing the welding mods (or having them done).
 

rico567

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It's a little hard for me to discern from reading this thread what the actual problem is here. Can I assume that the problem described is going to be specific to keggles, because the surface being heated is so much further above the heat source, due to the ring at the bottom of the keggle that sits on the top of the burner frame? (I just got a new Bayou Classic burner (not this one, the SQ14), and I use a regular SS brewpot, not a keggle.)
 
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FullDraw

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I'd say no, not specific to keggles. It's a space from burner to pot issue, regardless of the pot used. The kab6 is wide enough for the keggle, and I've read that the sq14 is as well. I don't know if it would work, or who would bother, but if you could put a banjo burner in a sq14 frame, I think there might be a winner.

After a little more brainstorming, I feel a weld only fix is in my future. Nothing else seems to have the stability I want. I don't want someone accidentally kicking a leg out from under this thing. But my fathers suggestion was to just wrap some heavy tin around the windshield to basically make a chimney/eliminate lateral heat loss. It's a simple idea that would be the easiest and probably quite effective. I may just try this, but if someone beats me to it, please let us know.

Here's the idea. Add on from the redline up. Burner height wouldn't change.
 

chillHayze

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You might consider taking 3/4" to 1" off the flue length. With only the 1/2" or so thickness of the support bars, you might not have proper draft at the higher rates (aka the flame will impinge on itself and be starved for air).
 
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Sure. Thought about that too. But I'm using a keggle, so there is overhang for air to get in, flames out. Plus the 1 inch from the lip of the keg to the actual bottom of the pot. I've got 20 virtual batches under my belt. I need to start doing rather than thinking.
 

springer

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Not the B6 but the B4 I cut the stand and switch the orientation and lowered them to 2 and 1/2 inches from the burner. 12 gallons from hose to boil in the keggle in 45 minutes



with keg on


flame with 60qt pot 14+ gallons from hose to boil 45-46 minutes


I like how quiet this burner is.
 

mandoman

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Have y'all seen this:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/10-banjo-burner-111177/#post1229967

I got mine today. Beefy as all get out. Much bigger/beefier than my cheapo turkey cooker. Looks like 4-5 inches from top of burner to bottom of keggle. Not sure how I'm going to go about 'testing' it as I typically am heating from 150 to boil, not cold to boil but don't know if I want to commit to doing an actual batch since I won't be able to lift 10 gallons of beer in the keggle if this burner doesn't cut it.
 
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FullDraw

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Finally got off my rear and modified the KAB6.

I ended up cutting the factory welds on the uprights, cleaning it all up, sliding the burner assembly (with shield) up as far as it would go, welding, then a finish coat of heat paint.

This was easier than I thought it would be. My welder friend had zero issue with this little project, and if I had a welder at my disposal, I'd do it myself next time.

After dissassembling the burner, we flipped it upside down to reassemble, which gave us the maximum height for the burner (using gravity). Tack welded to check it out, then some decent inside welds for strength.

Here's a pic of the new monster.


The new clearance.


And the action shot.


I used very little propane during the entire process, and heating to boil went very quicky (6 gallons 150* to boil, 10 minutes maybe). This was the first all grain, so timing the boil wasn't the priority. I'll do it next time.

I also have a 0-20 psi regulator on there. NOT the 0-30 that came with.
Even with the 20, I rolled the boil at a very low (efficient) flame.

So, now that it's been cut, put together and actually used, I give the KAB6 a big thumbs up.
 

MikeFlynn74

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I have the 5 b with the 30psi regulator. From mash to boil only takes about 10 min. From 38f hose to 162 is about 15 min.

I get 2-3 boils a tank. But I might try kicking down to a 20psi.
 

springer

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I have to say the pot makes a big difference in time . I did a 10 gallon patch on Sunday and used my new to me 30 gallon aluminum pot for the sparge water . I don't know if it was cause I didn't have a beer during the brew session but I knocked an hour off the the brew. I set the pot up at 2pm on a medium flame did some cleaning and grain crushing and the pot was boiling a good 15 minutes before my Keggle would have been near strike temp. I had to add cold water to bring it down. I was done cleaned up and pitched at 6:30 beer in hand
 

Synovia

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So, let me get this straight: Its the most expensive burner out there, and you have to modify it to use it?
 
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Yes, it's pricey. No, you don't. But if you want better efficiency of propane use, it's not going to hurt. It also seems to be designed for use with a flat bottom pot, versus the keggle that I am using. I'm choosing the keggel and the modification. And I am happy.
 

Lil' Sparky

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I think...

1) it's overkill for our purposes
2) it uses too much propane
3) the stand is worthless without modification
4) it's a badass burner that looks really cool if you don't mind #s 1-3
 

Catt22

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I think...

1) it's overkill for our purposes
2) it uses too much propane
3) the stand is worthless without modification
4) it's a badass burner that looks really cool if you don't mind #s 1-3

+5 Yep, same for the multi-jet burners. Excellent bling value though! I would think that one could use it at less than full throttle to conserve fuel while still providing more than enough heat to the kettle.
 

springer

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I think...

1) it's overkill for our purposes
not really if you do large patches
2) it uses too much propane
only if you turn it way up I can keep a nice slow boil going using very little propane and its whisper quite
3) the stand is worthless without modification
Only if you use a Keggle a flat bottom pot requires no modification
4) it's a badass burner that looks really cool if you don't mind #s 1-3
I paid just about 60 $ for it .Mine isnt the 6 but the KAB4 they changed the design without any warning the older 4 needed no mods for our use. Even the box mine came in showed the old burner close to the rack
 

Lil' Sparky

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I'll see your rebuttal and raise you one. ;)
1) it's overkill for our purposes
not really if you do large patches
-- No, really it is. Who here is using theirs for 20+ gal batches? Very few I imagine. I use a standard $8 cast iron burner (compared to your $60) to easily boil 13+ gals in my keggle, and I never turn the regulator all the way up.
2) it uses too much propane
only if you turn it way up I can keep a nice slow boil going using very little propane and its whisper quite
-- from the reports, even in this thread, this is only possible if the stand has been cut/rewelded. I'd also like to see a side-by-side comparison with one of the cheaper burners. Want to wager which one uses more propane at equal heating rates?
3) the stand is worthless without modification
Only if you use a Keggle a flat bottom pot requires no modification
-- I have a hard time believing there's that much difference between a keg and a standard pot (unless we're talking aluminum, in which case it's apples and oranges). A keg raises the bottom by less than an inch, and a keg's skirt holds the heat up under the bottom. Plus, if you're using a standard pot, it had better be a large diameter pot, or that burner's going to blast flames/heat around the sides.
4) it's a badass burner that looks really cool if you don't mind #s 1-3
 

Brewmasters Warehouse

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I use a KAB6 and I really do like it a lot. The only issue I have had with mine is the propane usage. It does use a lot of propane, and the propane tank tends to freeze up and cause the flow to slow down, and make it very difficult to heat anything. Nothing too difficult to fix, just put the propane tank into some water and it runs like crazy.

Is it overkill - You bet it is overkill, which is why I like it. I have limited time to brew so I wanted a burner that could heat up as fast as possible. This burner rocks for that purpose.

It uses too much propane - Yes it certianly does. It is a trade off, for the time spent heating. The freezing up of the tank is an annoyance, but not something that is difficult to work around. By the way it still freezes up even on a 90+ degree day in Georgia, so the tank in a tub of water is pretty much mandatory.

The stand is worthless without modification - I use large SS pots (15 and a 20 gallon) and I have not had any problems with it. I can not say what the preformance is with a keggle since I do not have one.

It's a badass burner that looks really cool if you don't mind 1-3. - Yes it is badass.

Ed
 

springer

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I raise you once again :D
I'll see your rebuttal and raise you one. ;)

1) it's overkill for our purposes
not really if you do large patches
-- No, really it is. Who here is using theirs for 20+ gal batches? Very few I imagine. I use a standard $8 cast iron burner (compared to your $60) to easily boil 13+ gals in my keggle, and I never turn the regulator all the way up.
What is your $8 burner attached to? I don't have a brew stand as of yet so I needed a base. So an $8 burned attached to a 200 $ brew stand is way more than my 60$ burner that I also use to deep fry and do clam bakes
2) it uses too much propane
only if you turn it way up I can keep a nice slow boil going using very little propane and its whisper quite
-- from the reports, even in this thread, this is only possible if the stand has been cut/rewelded. I'd also like to see a side-by-side comparison with one of the cheaper burners. Want to wager which one uses more propane at equal heating rates?
if they are putting out equal heating rate IE BTU's they will use the same amount
3) the stand is worthless without modification
Only if you use a Keggle a flat bottom pot requires no modification
-- I have a hard time believing there's that much difference between a keg and a standard pot (unless we're talking aluminum, in which case it's apples and oranges). A keg raises the bottom by less than an inch, and a keg's skirt holds the heat up under the bottom. Plus, if you're using a standard pot, it had better be a large diameter pot, or that burner's going to blast flames/heat around the sides.
The flat bottom of a regular pot is more efficient than the angle on the keggles bottom
4) it's a badass burner that looks really cool if you don't mind #s 1-3
Why do people have Brutus units they are overkill for our purposes also. Or RIMS or refractometers ? Everyone has their own way and reasons for doing their beer the way they do.
 

Lil' Sparky

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Most things we do is overkill. I agree. Including this little discussion. :mug:

And you're right, my $8 burner is attached to my brew stand (but I'll argue that this is NOT overkill!!! :D), so $8 really isn't fair. However, you can buy a turkey fryer kit with burner, stand, regulator, and pot for $30.

Different burners putting out the same BTUs will use the same amount of propane, but they won't necessarily heat at the same rate. If the configuration of one directs the flame around your pot, it will require more BTUs, i.e., more propane to heat at the same rate. A smaller burner will almost always be more efficient in this manner. I mean, even with my little burner, I can easily turn it up to where the flames are coming around the bottom, and that clearly wastes propane, regardless of the BTU output.

We'll just have to disagree about a keggle's efficiency due to it's shape. It does have a slight curve, but I believe the skirt more than counteracts that by the way it holds the heat underneath.
 

springer

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its all in fun .. well on my part that is .:D


I tend to do the overkill with everything just the way I was taught I guess. I built a detached garage and used 2x12 joists 12" on center for the second floor and for the roof rafters inspector came by and said "what the hell are you going have up there ? Cars?" Then when I got ready to pour the floor he just shook his head.... 12" floor with more steel in it than a suspension bridge...
 

jhonda00

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So after all this talk about this burner, which burner out there would you guys say is the best on cost, heat, and general longevity (how long the product will last you) if you're using a keggle? I've been doing some research and am after all that, thinking about buying a square frame bayou classic? What do you guys think?
 

wheelerc6

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I just did something similar to this KAB6 mod but I didn't weld the final product. I grinded off the original welds and then drilled holes that would allow me to add ubolts that would secure the legs...instead of welding the legs back to a fixed position. This will allow me to adjust the flame height to the pot I have. I am still running the 30psi regulator but am going to buy the 20psi one soon. My last 11 gallon batch (aprox 15 gallons initial boil in BK) sucked down an entire bottle of propane. The extra expense is killing me!!!

I have read several threads on flame height and some are saying that 7 to 8 inches is where the flame height should be but most of those guys are running natural gas and not propane. Is there a difference?
 

springer

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I just did something similar to this KAB6 mod but I didn't weld the final product. I grinded off the original welds and then drilled holes that would allow me to add ubolts that would secure the legs...instead of welding the legs back to a fixed position. This will allow me to adjust the flame height to the pot I have. I am still running the 30psi regulator but am going to buy the 20psi one soon. My last 11 gallon batch (aprox 15 gallons initial boil in BK) sucked down an entire bottle of propane. The extra expense is killing me!!!

I have read several threads on flame height and some are saying that 7 to 8 inches is where the flame height should be but most of those guys are running natural gas and not propane. Is there a difference?
What !! A 20lbs tank for 1 patch? I get at least 4 out of a 20lbs and I only do 10 gallon patches with 10 1/2 to 11 going into the fermentor. Are you running it full blast the whole time? Once I get to a boil I can throttle it back to almost nothing and it will keep a rolling boil. A 30 psi will flow more fuel but if you throttle it down it will restrict it . just like a water hose you can run full blast or a trickle.
 

wheelerc6

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What !! A 20lbs tank for 1 patch? I get at least 4 out of a 20lbs and I only do 10 gallon patches with 10 1/2 to 11 going into the fermentor. Are you running it full blast the whole time? Once I get to a boil I can throttle it back to almost nothing and it will keep a rolling boil. A 30 psi will flow more fuel but if you throttle it down it will restrict it . just like a water hose you can run full blast or a trickle.
Yep....the entire tank. I do run it full blast. Don't think I will be doing that anymore. Any thoughts on going to a 20 psi regulator for the banjo?
 

springer

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Yep....the entire tank. I do run it full blast. Don't think I will be doing that anymore. Any thoughts on going to a 20 psi regulator for the banjo?
I guess you could use one but in my experience the 30 psi works fine and I have the ability to if need be to run it full blast . But I haven't had that need yet. Let up on the flame it will save a lot of fuel
 

BadgerBrewer

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Just got my KAB6 from Brewmaster's Warehouse. Boy is that thing heavy! Used it last weekend to make a 6 gallon batch of IPA and I used roughly 3/4 of a tank of propane. I throttled back on the gas (or so I thought), so I think I might have to raise the level of the flame to get closer to the bottom of my keggle. Any more users of this unit have reviews on propane usage? Any other mods I might try before cutting and re-welding?
 

BendBrewer

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Man, I have my burners about 5 inches from the bottom of my pots and the flames will still lick up and around the bottom of the pot. I have to turn them almost all the way off just to keep the flame under the pot. Just getting this system up and running and hopefully I am just doing something wrong.

How high do you guys set your 0-30 psi regulators?
 

Catt22

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My brewing friend has a Banjo. He soon discovered that it was difficult to run at very low flame levels. Too low and it will blow out with the slightest draft and only slightly more than a low flame would be too hot. He swapped it out for an SQ-14 burner and now uses the Banjo to heat his HLT. I borrowed his Banjo to use with a 55 gallon SS drum boil kettle and it was perfect for boiling 32 gallons in this big kettle. It did guzzle fuel it seemed. It was drawing enough gas to cause the tank to freeze up half way through the boil.
 

Mike3701

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My brewing friend has a Banjo. He soon discovered that it was difficult to run at very low flame levels. Too low and it will blow out with the slightest draft and only slightly more than a low flame would be too hot. He swapped it out for an SQ-14 burner and now uses the Banjo to heat his HLT. I borrowed his Banjo to use with a 55 gallon SS drum boil kettle and it was perfect for boiling 32 gallons in this big kettle. It did guzzle fuel it seemed. It was drawing enough gas to cause the tank to freeze up half way through the boil.

How long did it take to boil 32 gallons?
 
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