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Bayou Classic Electric Kettles

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castermmt - Very nice build! Thanks for the note on trying to squeeze in 15 gallon batches. I like the refurbs of stir plate. I need to look into yeast quality/condition improvements (stir plate starters, o2 additions, and fermentation tamp control), but I want to focus on new a new brewing style transition first. I'll just stick with shaking the heck out of my carboys and double pitching for now. Also, very nice wooden stand! Does it get to be a mess when you are finished with your brew day? I was thinking of just buying a 7ft restaraunt quality SS table. I feel I tend to make a mess.

How is the clean up for everyone with these larger kettles and intricate systems? Do you just fill up the HLT with hot water and CBW/Oxyclean and just run it through the whole system? Or do you use a little elbow grease too?
 
I clean the boil kettle in place using a garden hose and shop vac, pretty simple. The Mash tun I put on the floor and scoop out the grain and clean the rest in a sink. The table is very easy to keep clean, The pumps I run star-san through then after each batch.
 
What pumps did you all go with? The ones on Kal's website are a little pricey, especially if I am going to need 2 of them.

Also, for the 10/3 wiring for the elements, would this suffice?
 
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For the elements, you actually only need 3 wires total - 2 hot and 1 ground, so the 4 wire cabling is kind of a waste to pay for. Here

You don't need the SS pumps, if you really want SS heads, check out Chugger pumps. I have a center inlet SS Chugger and it works just fine. Just keep in mind that even SS pump heads still have a poly impeller - no such thing as a 100% SS pump head, but I do like having the more durable SS body and threads. But poly pumps heads work just as well.
 
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I went with the "standard" March pumps with the poly pump heads. I already had one anyway and I wanted them to match. And then there's the price issue. Bottom line, is do they pump hot liquids, not leak, and last a long time? The poly ones do fine, and once you have them set up you won't be screwing and unscrewing things onto the head so they won't be wearing out. The poly ones should last a lifetime if you care for them. But I must admit the SS ones do look cool!
 
My Bayou Classic kettle has been great. I don't think the SS is too thin at all.
It's taken a tumble off a table onto its valve on concrete while cleaning, and came out unscathed (and that is why I prefer to brew alone :drunk: )
 
Is this GFCI circuit as the spa panel enough to power a setup I am invisioning? Also, will this power outlet restrict what I am looking to do? Or should I go for this 50A outlet?

The spa panel is the one used by many to get GFCI protection. Do you need more than a 30A service? With that you can run one 240V 5500W heating element at a time along with a pump at 120V. You would want to put a 30A breaker in your main panel, run 10/3 + ground to a 30A outlet. Then wire a plug from that outlet to the spa panel, then into your control panel. 10/3 + ground allows you to use one hot leg in the control panel to power 120V circuits. Now, if you need a 50a service, then you need to run 6/3 + ground, with 50A rated outlets and plugs. And if you only have 3 wires, then you will need a separate circuit from the main panel to run 120V devices, as you should not run a 120V circuit in your control panel without a proper neutral and ground.
 
Love my 62 quart Bayou Classic also. I use it with BIAB. All electric, 5500 watt.

IMG_0041.jpg
 
amelia - are you able to handle 10 gallon batches in there? If so, what is the biggest beer you've made? I was thinking the 82 quart as I tend to make a 9% every now and then. That would give me the extra space I need.

I am just about done compiling my parts list and then I will post them online. Please feel free to give me any advice.
 
Gotcha. I am going to go with the 82qt kettles, just for the extra breathing room. Very nice build and parts list! I am going to steal an idea or two from ya!
 
Bayou BIABer's - do you all agree the element must be used in a 1 gang outlet box, as the 2 gang outlet box setting won't allow the element enough room due to the basket insert?
 
Bayou BIABer's - do you all agree the element must be used in a 1 gang outlet box, as the 2 gang outlet box setting won't allow the element enough room due to the basket insert?

I can confirm that was the case with my 62 qt kettle.
 
Thanks suds. Was just thinking the same thing. Do you have a picture of your installation? How high off of the bottom would you say it should be drilled?
 
I just used a SS street elbow as my side pick up tube. Works well, nice & simple & compact. Those barbed ones BobbyM now sells would be even better, no threads to collect gunk
 
DustBow - Are you referring to this? Is the diptube just to fancy? I am just looking for a simple pickup for the ball valve for the eBIAB setup, but don't want to use silicone tubing. Would it work fine without tubing? I would rather keep everything SS down there. This kettle will be used as my HLT later on with the 3V build.
 
Yes, that's the one. I had an extra one laying around so I grabbed it instead of ordering a "fancy/pricey" compression fitting. Less parts, simple. My bulkhead nipple is mounted high enough that I just screwed the street elbow onto the nipple. There's probably 1/8-1/4 of an inch clearance between the bottom of the kettle and the elbow.
 
Thanks DustBow - I am assuming I can't use 1/2 setup up with that piece, correct? The parts below were what I was intending to use on the outside of the kettle wall.
Stainless steel male quick disconnect 1/2" MPT
Stainless steel ball valve 1/2" full port
Stainless steel 1/2" NPT lock nut

On another note, the electrical enclosure is coming in today and my 82 qt Bayou Classic Kettle is set to arrive next week! Can't wait to get this build going!
 
Well, your ball valve is going to be attached to a nipple right? I guess you're planning to use a locknut on the inside to make the seal ? I originally just used the SS street elbow with a SS washer on the inside, screwed those onto the nipple inside and tightened things down enough to get a nice leak-free weldless bulkhead. All 1/2" SS fittings. I used this bulkhead kit from BargainFittings - just repalced the coupler inside the pot with the elbow.
I've since silver soldered the bulkhead fitting onto the kettle but still just attached the street elbow on the nipple inside the pot for my dip tube.
I pump thru a Chillzilla and back into the kettle for whirlpool to keep the trub centered as much as possible & the street elbow makes for a great/compact side dip tube, the setup works great.
Here's a pic from earlier this year:

whirlpool.jpg
 
Nasty looking hop pile you've got there! With BIAB & a hop sock I haven't really had problems with big trub piles at the bottom of my kettle. I do like the whirpool effect though. I always thought that the trub went to the sides of the kettle...
 
So all my dreams of this new 82qt BIAB have been ruined with finding out the 82 kettle and basket is a "boil basket" and not a steam situated basket. This means the basket sits flush with the bottom.... $&#@!!!!!!!! Seriously! So I was wondering if any other BIAB 82'ers had any modifications they did to accomodate this? The BIAB is a short term set-up while I slowly acquire my parts to build a 3V system, but I still want to use it in the mean time!! Open to any and all suggestions. I was planning on cutting the holes in the basket to allow better circulation/flow, so I do not think legs will work. I could rig a pulley system to hold the basket off the bottom, but that seems risky if the pulley gives out and the basket drops on my heating element/pick up/ temp probe/etc.
 
So all my dreams of this new 82qt BIAB have been ruined with finding out the 82 kettle and basket is a "boil basket" and not a steam situated basket. This means the basket sits flush with the bottom.... $&#@!!!!!!!! Seriously! So I was wondering if any other BIAB 82'ers had any modifications they did to accomodate this? The BIAB is a short term set-up while I slowly acquire my parts to build a 3V system, but I still want to use it in the mean time!! Open to any and all suggestions. I was planning on cutting the holes in the basket to allow better circulation/flow, so I do not think legs will work. I could rig a pulley system to hold the basket off the bottom, but that seems risky if the pulley gives out and the basket drops on my heating element/pick up/ temp probe/etc.

you could put feet on the bottom of it with stainless steel bolts + a few washers and nuts. Just cause you are cutting holes doesnt mean you wont have space for a few bolts. Unless you are cutting the entire bottom off.
 
This is the design I am looking to do to my basket. Guess I could use the nuts and bolts... Just throw a blanket over the top? Any recommendations to keep the heat in to maintain a nice mash temp? What type of material?
 
Interesting - I thought all the Bayous had that "lip" up at the top to support the baskets.

But after looking at them just now on Amazon, it does look like the design changes from the 15 gallon to the 20. That sucks
 
So all my dreams of this new 82qt BIAB have been ruined with finding out the 82 kettle and basket is a "boil basket" and not a steam situated basket. This means the basket sits flush with the bottom.... $&#@!!!!!!!! Seriously! So I was wondering if any other BIAB 82'ers had any modifications they did to accomodate this? The BIAB is a short term set-up while I slowly acquire my parts to build a 3V system, but I still want to use it in the mean time!! Open to any and all suggestions. I was planning on cutting the holes in the basket to allow better circulation/flow, so I do not think legs will work. I could rig a pulley system to hold the basket off the bottom, but that seems risky if the pulley gives out and the basket drops on my heating element/pick up/ temp probe/etc.

Of course, you could skip the basket altogether and just use the bag. Plenty of people do this, and you have one less vessel to clean. You would still want something to keep the bag off the element. I use a stainless circular cooling rack.
 
Just ordered the next step of the project all from Bobby_M, who was a great help! Weldless bulk head with the high flow elbow barb leading to a nice 3 way valve and 5/8" nipple (for 1/2 ID silocone tubing). Ordered the WLSTNT sight glass kit, which has no thermometer but will have a 4" temp sensor installed in place of it. Will get pictures up after the install next week, unless I find spare time sooner.
 
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