bargainfittings.com cam locks disappointment

[jeffmeh]

partB is what goes on the street 90 OR part F depending on how you set up your system.

PartA would go on your pump since it has MIP threads.

-=Jason=-

I agree that B goes on the street elbow. PartA is a male cam/groove x female NPT, so would go on a pump that has male threads. PartF is a male cam/groove x male NPT, so would go on a pump that has female threads.

 

[bruin_ale]

Putting the Male fitting on the hose might be an option to consider. Look at the hole in that barb.

Are you sure that's a 1/2" barb? That looks eerily like the 5/8" barb there. Take a look at the Style E picture on bargainfittings website. That's the 1/2" male barbed connector and it doesn't look anything like the picture you posted.

 

[Bobby_M]

Yes, I was doing it from memory and screwed it all up. TYPE B. Every time I talk about these damn things to someone in person I mix up the letters also. Type B to Street L, just like Flomaster's picture. My bad.

Does anyone actually have a Type E? The picture makes it look like the ID of the barb is like 5/8" but I doubt it's like that in reality.

 

[Flomaster]

Yes, I was doing it from memory and screwed it all up. TYPE B. Every time I talk about these damn things to someone in person I mix up the letters also. Type B to Street L, just like Flomaster's picture. My bad.

Does anyone actually have a Type E? The picture makes it look like the ID of the barb is like 5/8" but I doubt it's like that in reality.

didn't some one in the OG SS camlock thread buy one and use a fancy measuring device to compare the two?

-=jason=-

 

[bbognerks]

For those that don't want to grind street elbows and the like, you could always use these barbs
http://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-Threaded-Hose-Barb-TFB58.html

 

[Flomaster]

For those that don't want to grind street elbows and the like, you could always use these barbs
http://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-Threaded-Hose-Barb-TFB58.html

OR just thread the 90, Hex nipple, or MIP camlock into the silicone tubing.

I have one brew under my belt, several hot testing / cleaning sessions and i don't have ANY leaks at all and I threaded the 90 into the silicone tubing.


-=jason=-

 

[bruin_ale]

For those that don't want to grind street elbows and the like, you could always use these barbs
http://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-Threaded-Hose-Barb-TFB58.html

Those are pretty sweet, but $10 each?

 

[SankePankey]

Does anyone actually have a Type E? The picture makes it look like the ID of the barb is like 5/8" but I doubt it's like that in reality.

I think the pictures the use on the pro-flow site are of a larger version, like the 3/4" or the 1" or something. It's definitely not the 1/2" that is pictured. IMO.

 

[jeffmeh]

Yes, I was doing it from memory and screwed it all up. TYPE B. Every time I talk about these damn things to someone in person I mix up the letters also. Type B to Street L, just like Flomaster's picture. My bad.

Does anyone actually have a Type E? The picture makes it look like the ID of the barb is like 5/8" but I doubt it's like that in reality.

No worries Bobby.

From your videos it appears you really recommend the street elbow to keep the hose from kinking, so even if the Type E barb has full flow it could be moot.

 

[Flomaster]

I think the pictures the use on the pro-flow site are of a larger version, like the 3/4" or the 1" or something. It's definitely not the 1/2" that is pictured. IMO.

exactly I seem to recall some one buying the E fitting, and the ID of the barb was much smaller than appeared to be.

-=Jason=-

 

[Homercidal]

With a lathe, you can use a type B and just turn the threads down until you're flat. It turns it into a high flow barb that easily accommodates 1/2" ID silicone tubing. If you want an elbow, use a type A with a street L on it. You can turn the street L's threads down into a barb also.

Ok, I understand after all is said and done. I can easily lathe down the threads and make a nice connector for the silicone.

 

[bbognerks]

OR just thread the 90, Hex nipple, or MIP camlock into the silicone tubing.

I have one brew under my belt, several hot testing / cleaning sessions and i don't have ANY leaks at all and I threaded the 90 into the silicone tubing.

Those are pretty sweet, but $10 each?

Well, if you are the type that doesn't want to kludge it together and want it to be as close to perfect as possible, then the full bore barbs are the best option. As with anything, throw enough money at it and you get what you want. It still comes out cheaper than what Kal used, heh

I too went with the street 90 with hose threaded on instead of grinding them. Tight fit, no leaks. I actually like this better so I don't have to put clamps on them.

 

[BendBrewer]

Yeah, the 1/2" E style on Bargin Fittings site looks like it is back to square one if going the barb route. Sorry for the misleading picture above.

 

[gunner65]

Yeah, the 1/2" E style on Bargin Fittings site looks like it is back to square one if going the barb route. Sorry for the misleading picture above.

This is the ones I use and I still have to close the valve half way in order to get a flow rate that doesnt slosh liquid. I see no issue with them. YMMV

 

[Budzu]

Those are pretty sweet, but $10 each?

I bought a bunch of those (high-flow 1/2" barbs from brewershardware.com) to use with camlocks. It does make a dramatic difference in flow (over the camlock barbs), even with the march 809. I tried them all side by side. The camlock barbs ARE causing alot of flow restriction. With the bigger march nano pump they are even more helpful. Very glad I bought them, but yeah they are a bit expensive..
BTW the high-flow barbs are merely 1/2" threads and 5/8" barb. They are very highly polished stainless as well (unlike most stainless fittings you buy). I've not been able to find that fitting in stainless from another source. But you can buy 1/2"x5/8" barbs in brass from cheap local big box stores.

 

[Bobby_M]

The only reason I don't like putting the hose over threads is that it is stretched pretty far and the first thread provides a pretty sharp knife edge. If you stepped on the hose the right way while in operation, you could cut the tubing. I've also noticed that the interior of the silicone tubing gets all cut up. It may not be a problem, but grinding the threads off takes the sharp edges away and reduces the OD from .83" to about .7". The tubing still fits tight and doesn't require a clamp, but it's a little more comfortable.

 

[BendBrewer]

I found this out there which has better product descriptions and actual specs and dimensions.

http://www.chemray.com/industrial_products/pdf/flow_lock.pdf

The diameter of the E fitting looks a little deceiving though. Dimension A reads 13 mm but it also looks tapered. I doubt that the wall of the barb is 1 mm thick at the end.

 

[SankePankey]

. The tubing still fits tight and doesn't require a clamp

...which is pretty cool. The only place I really care to have high flow quick disconnects in this configuration you came up with is in wort chilling... where I'd want to disassemble my tubing every brew for sanitary reasons. Having a quick disconnect that fits without a clamp (and on tubing where you wouldn't want to have any pressure buildup anyways to necessitate a clamp) is actually usefully convenient.

 

[tch1980]

For the money I'm very happy with these fittings. I had some sputtering issues too and it was caused by too hot of water coming through the tubing. My thermometer was off and caused cavatation in the pump head.

 

[ekjohns]

so what is the general consensus about these. I am getting ready to buy a bunch for my pump and confused on what it better, a Type B and just thread the hose over the threading or Type C with the hose barb. Mostly just going to use the pump to move liquid between pots so I dont have to do any heavy lifting. Might start wirlpooling in the future. I want to be able to disassemble everything for storage as well. I like to keep everything safe so I will use hose clamps on everything.

 

[BargainFittings]

It really depends on application.

I use the standard C style on my 15 gallon rig hoses and put higher flow 5/8 barbs with D style on my 50 gallon system.

Some people find that the higher flow to work out better for their setups but we sell alot of C camlocks. I have had only a handful of people ask to return them to switch to a D or B setup.

 

[bruin_ale]

I'm very happy with my setup. I'm using the type B with the hose stretched over the threads and I zip-tied them as I was getting a little bit of liquid leaking through the threads (grinding the threads would have solved that, but the zip tie works also).

 

[WPStrassburg]

I'm using the polypropelene type which are the same coupler size for 1/2" and 3/4" sizes. I can use the 3/4" type C coupler over 1/2" silicone with either a 1/2" or 3/4" threaded type A or F for less restriction through the coupler. It takes a bit of work to the the 1/2" ID x 3/4" od silicone over the larger barb, but less than stuffing it over a threaded 90. The stainless fittings have different coupler sizes between the 1/2" and 3/4" series so this is only an option if you want to use the polypropelene.

 

[Bobby_M]

I chose not to carry the type C just in principal (at least for now). As a relatively new vendor I'm trying to only offer products that I would personally use in my brewery and the type C's are just a sad excuse for a solution. Whether you care about max flow or not, just look at the picture. I could understand if you're using thermoplastic tubing which doesn't stretch all that well but with silicone, thread a 5/8" barb into a type D at MINIMUM, but I really like the Type B to street L best in almost all situations.

Of course, like Bargainfittings, I know I'd sell plenty of C's if I put them on the site even if I recommended against it.

 

[cjp4627]

Recirculation for whirlpool is the big one, but I also run the pump full on when moving strike/sparge water and it's more a philosophical desire to not restrict the flow when you don't have to. You might as well just use 3/8" ball valves and tubing since it's cheaper. In fact, why not just get reduced port ball valves.

For real, in practice, it probably doesn't matter much. It won't make your beer better.

This is an extremely inaccurate statement. Frictional losses are cumulative and not based on the most restrictive point in the system. If you changed to a 3/8" system, the dynamic head of the system would skyrocket and the performance would plummet. Spreading information like this is misleading to the community as a whole.

Would it be nice if the ports were bigger? Yes. I have agree with all others though that no matter what, a hose barb will be a restriction in the flow based on the geometry of the joint. It is in no way the responsibility of the vendor or manufacturer to let you know that since you are using silicone tubing that you could use a larger hose barb fitting to reduce frictional loses.

How would you guys like this product if they made the walls of the barbed area extra thin to expand the ID and instead if you bumped the fitting it would snap off and break? Or if the made the OD bigger and the hose you selected wouldn't fit over it, even though it is for a 1/2" tube

? Everything in system design is a compromise and it is up to the designer to determine what parts will work best in his or her system. We are essentially engineering our own brewing systems here and while I would not go as far as to say anyone would need an engineering degree to brew beer, you can not hold anyone accountable for oversights in a system you design on your own.

 

[BargainFittings]

I've made a note on the description in bold red lettering the inner diameter of the C camlocks and a note about the different options.
I'm always happy to talk out options on parts and tell the advantage and disadvantage of different setups.

 

[Bobby_M]

This is an extremely inaccurate statement. Frictional losses are cumulative and not based on the most restrictive point in the system.

Agree

Spreading information like this is misleading to the community as a whole.

I sincerely apologize to the community.

Would it be nice if the ports were bigger? Yes. I have agree with all others though that no matter what, a hose barb will be a restriction in the flow based on the geometry of the joint. It is in no way the responsibility of the vendor or manufacturer to let you know that since you are using silicone tubing that you could use a larger hose barb fitting to reduce frictional loses.

Woah, not quite. The barb integrated into the type C is the MOST restrictive 1/2" barb ID I've come across. I only blame the manufacturer so much as not even trying to enlarge the ID to what would be perfectly acceptable. It's true that everyone needs to evaluate what their needs are and to that end, I'm advocating clear specifications be published. Each vendor will handle it in a slightly different way. Isn't it a value added service to inform a customer of less restrictive options? Yes, of course it is. I've done measured flow rate comparisons between the type C and type B w/street elbow on an otherwise all 1/2" system and the results at 42" of head are 2.5 and 3.5 GPM respectively. The end user should use that information to make a decision for themselves. Hell, get a single sample of both and do the tests yourself.

Also, to be sure that I don't slip up and misinform the community, here's a full breakdown of the options:

Left to right:
Type C - .3" ID (just under 5/16")
Reasonable 1/2" barb - .39" (just over 3/8")
5/8" barb that still accepts even PVC tubing: .47" ID (just under 1/2")

I dare anyone to defend the barb on the type C as completely acceptable and expected (even though everyone can reasonably agree that 1 GPM difference is not going to destroy a brew day).


Wayne, you should also know that I'm not directing any of this towards you. I didn't like the thread's title from the start.

 

[Irrenarzt]

There is only one way to fly with QD's, Swagelok QF8 series. You gotta pay to play...

 

[WPStrassburg]

We're dealing with hose barbs, and therefore will suffer a smaller id through them than the tubing they are designed to connect. It's the nature of the beast they are designed to work with. We're lucky enough to be working with silicone tubing for the most part and can work that over a 5/8" or 3/4" barb, but if you're buying parts without doing your own homework then take what you get for the effort you have put forth. Kudos to the vendors and brewers who have done their homework and posted their findings and specifications, but don't berate a product for being what it is when you haven't researched the details and therefore purchased blindly.

(Off Valentines/Hallmark/Margarita soapbox for the day)

 

[nbolmer]

There is only one way to fly with QD's, Swagelok QF8 series. You gotta pay to play...

Does the QF8 series even have hose barbs? I think you'd need to fit all of your tubing with Barb => NPT