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Polyurethane doesn't build well. It doesn't adhere well to itself. Multiple layers require sanding between layers to increase mechanical adhesion. It's difficult to put down more than 1/64th thick at a time. Plus, poly has to dry before it can cure. The thicker you build it up the longer it will take to cure and harden. Finally, poly us 50% solids, so thick layers will shrink and can crack.

Since poly is only 50% solids you would need twice as much poly vs epoxy for the same thickness. That makes the two equal in cost... because epoxy is 100% solids. Epoxy can be done in two or three thicker layers. Both poly and epoxy will cost about $3 per square ft for a 1/8th inch thickness.

I disagree about several durability and ease of use things you stated above (see my avatar for my poly bar). You have some good points but I can speak from experience that I built a bar top with old maple stain poly and put on 40 coats. Yes I know, crazy.... But I was just out of school and I didn't have the money for the pour on (have had the bar for over 10 years through 6-7 moves). I still have that bar and the finish is great and has held up to lots of use. You can slide mugs across it cheers style.

Poly is VERY durable for this application and should seal and become water proof in 3 coats. If you want to build the poly up use 000 Steel wool to scuff it up between coats so it adheres properly. You should be fine with 3-5 coats tops though, not my 40.

My process was, lightly scuff with teh 000 steel wool, wipe off steel wool filings with a rag soaked in mineral spirits, apply poly. Let the poly dry where it isn't tacky between coats.

You would have to do some thing about the post cards though, like laminate them or something. And I am not sure that you would ever get a smooth top with the cards under the poly. However it can make a killer bartop on a budget.

All that said you should use the pour on epoxy if you want to put something like coins beer caps or photos underneath. You will never be able to build up poly the wya you can the epoxy. Since it isn't self leveling you will never have a smooth surface where your photos or coins are (every coat will add thickness to everything). You would have to build it way up then sand it down level. PITA

If you want to make a waterproof durable bartop Poly is a great tool - even if you only use 3-5 coats :D I built a queen ane styled coffee table at the same time out of ash and applied 4 coats of poly. That surface has stood up to the test of time as well.
 
Thanks all,

I think I'm set on using epoxy. Now i just need to test the post cards and hope I don't make too much of a mess.
 
I disagree about several durability and ease of use things you stated above (see my avatar for my poly bar). You have some good points but I can speak from experience that I built a bar top with old maple stain poly and put on 40 coats. Yes I know, crazy.... But I was just out of school and I didn't have the money for the pour on (have had the bar for over 10 years through 6-7 moves). I still have that bar and the finish is great and has held up to lots of use. You can slide mugs across it cheers style.

Its not that its not durable or easy to use. Its just not easy to use or durable in any application where you are trying to encase something like postcards, or photos (let alone something even thicker).
 
Hang Glider said:
Anything is going to soak into the postcards.
I've read that you should coat paper with white glue (Elmer's) and allow it to dry. This will protect the paper from the epoxy. (test first!)

Epoxy can be poured twice - one thin coat will hold objects in place, or allow them to "float" once the second coat is on.

USComposites has some clear bar-top epoxy that works well. Yellows very slightly over time, though. (not as bad as poly).

for the bubbles, get a heat gun (paint removal kind) or a blow torch, and wave it gently over the pour. It makes the epoxy thin like water (briefly) allowing the bubbles to come up and pop.

Only alkyds will yellow, both for epoxies and polyurethane. A water-based poly will stay crystal clear. Same with a water-based epoxy. That's one of the big advantages to envirotex. I don't remember the price on it, but its not outrageous.

The only downside I've heard to the envirotex is that if you leave something heavy on it for an extended period it will leave a dent. If you take the object off the dent will leave on it's own.
 
Thanks all,

I think I'm set on using epoxy. Now i just need to test the post cards and hope I don't make too much of a mess.

Not sure how well it would work in this situation but I covered some clippings from a coffee table book with a couple coats of aerosol lacquer and glued them to some shims to turn them into hangable art. Anyways, despite that bad description, the reason I coated them in lacquer first was to attempt to waterproof them to some degree as they were going to be hung in a small steamy bathroom with poor ventilation. Its been 2 years and the clippings still look like new. Something worth considering when you're in your R&D phase of the project.
 
Its not that its not durable or easy to use. Its just not easy to use or durable in any application where you are trying to encase something like postcards, or photos (let alone something even thicker).

agree totally - poly is not the correct finish for the poster's intended use
 
My wife came up with the idea to put some vintage post cards on the bar top and then seal it with shellac. For all the wood workers out there, is this the best way to put something like post card on the bar top where they won't be damaged??? Or should I look at epoxy???

They sell a product in the paint section of lowes/ home depot that is called bar top finish. It is a epoxy and hardener kit and it works very well. It is best to tape down or glue the postcards first and then put the epoxy on top of them. It hardens in 24 hours and is a very nice product.
 
Not sure how well it would work in this situation but I covered some clippings from a coffee table book with a couple coats of aerosol lacquer and glued them to some shims to turn them into hangable art. Anyways, despite that bad description, the reason I coated them in lacquer first was to attempt to waterproof them to some degree as they were going to be hung in a small steamy bathroom with poor ventilation. Its been 2 years and the clippings still look like new. Something worth considering when you're in your R&D phase of the project.

was it a coffee table book on coffee tables?
 
was it a coffee table book on coffee tables?

I'm not that boring. A coffee table book is a general term for a large, interesting book basically. In my case, the subject matter was American Pin Up Art.

From Wikipedia:
"A coffee table book is a hardcover book that is intended to sit on a coffee table or similar surface in an area where guests sit and are entertained, thus inspiring conversation or alleviating boredom. They tend to be oversized and of heavy construction, since there is no pressing need for portability. Subject matter is generally confined to non-fiction, and is usually visually oriented. Pages consist mainly of photographs and illustrations, accompanied by captions and small blocks of text, as opposed to long prose. Since they are aimed at anyone who might pick the book up for a light read, the analysis inside is often more basic and with less jargon than other books on the subject. Because of this, the term "coffee table book" can be used pejoratively to indicate a superficial approach to the subject."

And now you know.
 
I'll agree with that. Its a hell of a reference source for tracking down valid reference sources though. Definitely owe at least a part of my Bachelors Degree to Wikipedia for helping lead me to legitimate sources.

Also, from bar tops to arguing the legitimacy of Wikipedia as a reputable source....
My apologies for taking this thread so far off topic.
 
So to piggy back on this thread. I am going to seal concert tickets into the top of my bar. I just glue them to the bar top and then pour the Kleer Koat Table Top Epoxy right on top or do I need to seal the bar top and or tickets with something like polyurethan first? Thanks for the help!
 
You need to TEST something first - don't ruin your tickets!

Paper needs to be sealed. Soaking up something oily/oil/alkyd based will leave you disappointed - polyurethane OR epoxy !

TEST - similar paper if at all possible. I have not tried this, but in discusions I've personally had with others (at a bar...) they suggest you coat the paper in white glue, let it dry. (it dries clear) then pour your test epoxy over it in a small test-sized bartop.
 

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