Ball lock or pin lock?
- Thread starter Dustinj
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Yes, definitely...
Cheers!
Cheers!
Cider123
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The world seems to be moving from pin lock to ball lock. That was my take on it when I got into it 6 months ago. So I don't know much, but I saw a lot more stuff relating and available for ball locks and went with that. I think new people that are starting their investment in kegging go with ball lock. That's MHOFWIW
d3track
Are you sure about that?
You're going to be fine either way. Ine found pin lock to be cheaper (that's what I have). There is a slight shape difference between them, and while more expensive, ball lock seem to be more plentiful.
It's up to you, but IMHO, you're going to love kegging no matter which you choose.
It's up to you, but IMHO, you're going to love kegging no matter which you choose.
LandoLincoln
Well-Known Member
Pin locks are for those weird brewers that talk to themselves all day and freak out whenever you mention lima beans. You don't want to be one of those guys.
d3track
Are you sure about that?
MX1
Texas Ale Works
1/6 bbl sanke is the way of the future....
Choose based on what fits your needs (physical size), then desired functions( do you want the pressure relieve valve in the lid for convenience?) then figure availability, condition and price in.
Me, I wanted the taller, skinny-er size of the ball lock, pressure relief in the lid, and they were available in good condition from my local HBS place at a ok price... So im supporting the little local guy.
Me, I wanted the taller, skinny-er size of the ball lock, pressure relief in the lid, and they were available in good condition from my local HBS place at a ok price... So im supporting the little local guy.
Gitmoe
Well-Known Member
Get ball lock. Easier to find parts. Personally I use both but convert all my pin lock kegs to ball lock with new posts and lids to have relief valves. I can fit 2 extra kegs in my kegorator using shorter pin lock kegs. So even if you get pin lock now and you wanna change to ball lock you can always convert them.
The conventional wisdom is that ball locks are more common but my experience getting into kegging about a year ago is that pin locks are *way* cheaper and *much* easier to obtain. I think the ball locks are pretty much all gone.
As for parts, any reasonable homebrew shop will carry parts for both. And of course you can get anything online.
As for parts, any reasonable homebrew shop will carry parts for both. And of course you can get anything online.
^ Agreed. What "ball locks" I've seen at retail here recently (say last six months) are almost always converted pin lock kegs...
Cheers!
Cheers!
We talk to ourselves, but i love beans! lima not so much, is that a cantaloupe?
Get whatever you can that's cheap.
MX1
Texas Ale Works
Going to add a little isight to my first comment. I think that going with the sanke is the way to go for a few reasons.
http://www.brewbrothers.biz/PubKeg-51-Gal-Keg
1. you can use it in any comerical Kegarator
2. not as may tiny parts to clean
3. if you dont mind PET, then you can get them pretty cheap, and if you want SS, you can find them from around 70-100 per keg, but they are brand new, and you have not stolen anything from a brewery.
This are just my thoughts, and I offer them as a 3rd option to your post.
If it is pin/ball that you must have, then I figure what ever you can find the most of local is the way to go.
Tim
LandoLincoln
Well-Known Member
True dat. Pin lock kegs are slightly fatter, but slightly shorter, which would lead one to choose pin locks if height restrictions are a factor. BUT, pin lock quick disconnects are taller than ball lock disconnects, so I think they end up being about the same height overall. So there's no real advantage to pin locks, but there are a few disadvantages.
If you're just starting down the path, pick one and standardize on it. But there are no show-stoppers whatever you choose. I went all ball lock, a friend of mine is going pin-lock because of size constraints (he's got more horizontal and less vertical space). Pin-locks are ~$10/keg cheaper .
The down side to sankeys is that they are a litthl harder to open (though with practice you can get really good at it) and harder to clean as unless you have baby hands you will not be able to get them in the keg to wipe down the inside.
Cannot agree more with this point. Pick whichever and go with it. Swapping out quick disconnects is not too big of a hassle, but it can become a pain. Just pick one and stick with it. Or mix, whatever. Both do what they advertise and hold beer.
MX1
Texas Ale Works
True. I am just playing devil's advocate. Not to mention that I feel slightly better being able to take a clean cloth and while cleaning gently rub down all surfaces of my kegs to make sure no debris is stuck to the walls. The carboy cleaner would be the solution for that though.
Turns out I can't spell either. And to think I edited my original post twice to fix the spelling of the word 'Little' and failed both times.
Turns out I can't spell either. And to think I edited my original post twice to fix the spelling of the word 'Little' and failed both times.
MX1
Texas Ale Works
No, I get it...lol.
I like the idea of just a spear to clean, and not all the tiny parts of th epoppets and such, also, not as many seams and welds, and corners and such to clean.
I was just trying to give another option, for me the selling point is the fact that it can be used with any commercial system, and does not cost that much more in the long run.
But, what ever works, that is what he needs to go with.
Cheers!
Tim
