Bag WILL NOT drain. Why?

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Chloramine will persist through a boil but can be removed with a good charcoal filter - free chlorine is driven off in a boil.
 
charcoal filter. but pretty sure the boil would drive that out anyway.

Boiling gets rid of chlorine. Unfortunately, the mash happens before the boil, and that's where chlorine firsts meets phenols (from the grains), forming chlorophenols (platic-y, bandaid, medicinal).
 
charcoal filter. but pretty sure the boil would drive that out anyway.
Neither charcoal nor boiling does the job I'm afraid.... Boiling before mashing can drive off chlorine, but not chloramine.

But anyway, if there's something present in your water you would have tasted bandaid flavour in your beer. That's the main concern.
 
charcoal filter. but pretty sure the boil would drive that out anyway.

The charcoal filter is effective and that's what I use as well.

Two words of caution though:

Charcoal filters are flow-rate dependent. So if you flow too fast, the water isn't in contact with the charcoal long enough to capture the chlorine

Chloramine (which is commonly used in place of or in conjunction with chlorine) is not driven off by the boil and as stated above, will cause chlorophenolic off flavors in your finished beer. It tastes like vinyl or plastic
 
The charcoal filter is effective and that's what I use as well.

Two words of caution though:

Charcoal filters are flow-rate dependent. So if you flow too fast, the water isn't in contact with the charcoal long enough to capture the chlorine

Chloramine (which is commonly used in place of or in conjunction with chlorine) is not driven off by the boil and as stated above, will cause chlorophenolic off flavors in your finished beer. It tastes like vinyl or plastic
I wouldn't trust it. I know it gets a lot (I'm basically working in that industry) but it doesn't get everything and as you said, there are variables like flow rate, amount of chlorine/chloramine and also age of the filter. I mean if it works, it works. But I would be scared of the one beer that'd be ruined when it fails, due to changing variables.
 
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Neither charcoal nor boiling does the job I'm afraid.... Boiling before mashing can drive off chlorine, but not chloramine.

But anyway, if there's something present in your water you would have tasted bandaid flavour in your beer. That's the main concern.

This is the first time I can remember seeing that charcoal filters won't remove chlorine. Is this some new info that I've missed? I remember Martin B. recommending it a couple years back, provided that your flow rate is sufficiently low for the surface area of carbon filtration you're using
 
This is the first time I can remember seeing that charcoal filters won't remove chlorine. Is this some new info that I've missed? I remember Martin B. recommending it a couple years back, provided that your flow rate is sufficiently low for the surface area of carbon filtration you're using
We were replying at the same time, my last post clarified it a bit.
 
Chiming in to say (1) I had this exact same problem (bag contents looked identical, bag wouldn't drain) when I had a pH 4.7 mash for a Grodziskie -- in my case, I hadn't factored in the extra acidity of the smoked malt and so way undershot the pH; interestingly, the extraction and attenuation were both kind of reasonable and the beer ended up quite good. And (2) I had this problem again today for a kartoffelbier, where the slimy gunk was essentially a pound of mashed potatoes in the bag. Not fun squeezing that.
 
OP, you mentioned using 130F water from your tap. Is that the same water you had tested? I've always heard you should not use heated water for drinking or cooking. There's a sacrificial anode in the tank that corrodes into the water (so the tank doesn't corrode), so the report may be off if you sent in cold water.
 
OP, you mentioned using 130F water from your tap. Is that the same water you had tested? I've always heard you should not use heated water for drinking or cooking. There's a sacrificial anode in the tank that corrodes into the water (so the tank doesn't corrode), so the report may be off if you sent in cold water.
Yes, it’s the same water. I followed the instructions from ward labs on how to provide them the sample. I’ve done a ton of brews Before having the messed up acid, and a bunch of since, and they’ve all gone according to plan exactly how I wanted them to. The only problem was the extra strength acid that I calculated as normal strength acid.

There really isn’t any mystery here anymore, and I think it’s kind of funny that this thread has seen a revival.
 
I wasn't saying that was the issue, but that more as a general rule, I've heard not use use water heater water for cooking/drinking. I use RO myself, and it heats while I mill my grain.
 
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