jerrylotto
Well-Known Member
Chloramine will persist through a boil but can be removed with a good charcoal filter - free chlorine is driven off in a boil.
charcoal filter. but pretty sure the boil would drive that out anyway.
Neither charcoal nor boiling does the job I'm afraid.... Boiling before mashing can drive off chlorine, but not chloramine.charcoal filter. but pretty sure the boil would drive that out anyway.
charcoal filter. but pretty sure the boil would drive that out anyway.
I wouldn't trust it. I know it gets a lot (I'm basically working in that industry) but it doesn't get everything and as you said, there are variables like flow rate, amount of chlorine/chloramine and also age of the filter. I mean if it works, it works. But I would be scared of the one beer that'd be ruined when it fails, due to changing variables.The charcoal filter is effective and that's what I use as well.
Two words of caution though:
Charcoal filters are flow-rate dependent. So if you flow too fast, the water isn't in contact with the charcoal long enough to capture the chlorine
Chloramine (which is commonly used in place of or in conjunction with chlorine) is not driven off by the boil and as stated above, will cause chlorophenolic off flavors in your finished beer. It tastes like vinyl or plastic
Neither charcoal nor boiling does the job I'm afraid.... Boiling before mashing can drive off chlorine, but not chloramine.
But anyway, if there's something present in your water you would have tasted bandaid flavour in your beer. That's the main concern.
We were replying at the same time, my last post clarified it a bit.This is the first time I can remember seeing that charcoal filters won't remove chlorine. Is this some new info that I've missed? I remember Martin B. recommending it a couple years back, provided that your flow rate is sufficiently low for the surface area of carbon filtration you're using
Yes, it’s the same water. I followed the instructions from ward labs on how to provide them the sample. I’ve done a ton of brews Before having the messed up acid, and a bunch of since, and they’ve all gone according to plan exactly how I wanted them to. The only problem was the extra strength acid that I calculated as normal strength acid.OP, you mentioned using 130F water from your tap. Is that the same water you had tested? I've always heard you should not use heated water for drinking or cooking. There's a sacrificial anode in the tank that corrodes into the water (so the tank doesn't corrode), so the report may be off if you sent in cold water.
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