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BAD REGULATOR?

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GBRbrew

THIS IS MY BREWSTICK!!!
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Pretty sure I got a bad regulator but thought I'd ask here first before I get a new one. I open up my co2 tank and pressurize the system I then shut off the co2, after about 24 hrs the high pressure gage has dropped to zero but the gage for line pressure still shows 10 psi after 4 days. So it's got to be a bad regulator right?

Cheers
 
Yea it's in there, the whole system is brand new when I hooked everything up 3 weeks ago I did a test where I pressurised the system shut off the valve and waited 48hrs. No drop on the gauges. Now when I shut off the valve only the high drops. I thought both would drop if it was leaking at the regulator to tank connection. I'll spray with star san to double check.
 
Is the out line attached to a keg? If there is NOT a non return valve on the gas out line then the low pressure reg gauge will read the keg pressure and maintain the keg pressure reading.
I think.
 
Heres a pic. The gas out line has a check valve to stop beer from flowing back into the regulator. I tightened the regulator some more but it wasn't lose sprayed with star san did not see any bubbles. Will see if the high pressure gauge drops again.
 

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Okay thanks for update.
So if valve from cylinder off, but had been on, the low gauge reads the setting you have for the kegerator.
High gauge reads the tank pressure but now isolated as the cylinder is off.
If gas is being used either because beer is being drawn, or carbonating ( as system balancing out) then it will move past your non return valve to the beer side.
The high pressure valve drops as it supplies this gas ( but it only needs to supply a bit ) so it's a slow process.

So it might be okay. If you disconnected the gas end to the kegerator ( with ball lock ? ) then as long as the ball lock and connectors, non return valve and join to regulator not leaking that would identify more. IE it might stay higher for the high pressure gauge for longer as no losses south of it.
Not sure if I have explained my logic well here.
But as it stands you have an open system that you are testing for leaks and the only way to check the regulator and connections is to isolate it as much as possible and then work away from it hunting for any leak. If one exists.
 
Pretty sure I got a bad regulator but thought I'd ask here first before I get a new one. I open up my co2 tank and pressurize the system I then shut off the co2, after about 24 hrs the high pressure gage has dropped to zero but the gage for line pressure still shows 10 psi after 4 days. So it's got to be a bad regulator right?

Cheers
By your description your regulator seems to be properly functioning. If you back off the adjustment it should vent the remaining 10 psi off
 
By your description your regulator seems to be properly functioning. If you back off the adjustment it should vent the remaining 10 psi off
I was under the impression if there are no leaks in the system, just turning off the co2 tank valve the whole system should stay pressurized, why would the high pressure gauge drop if there is no leak ?
 
Because it will seek equilibrium with the rest of your keg system. Essentially the contents in the regulator are acting like a tiny CO2 cylinder and the gas gets absorbed in the beer, tiny losses and thru the pipe which isn't 100% gas impermeable.

See if it drops slower without it connected to your kegs.
 
I was under the impression if there are no leaks in the system, just turning off the co2 tank valve the whole system should stay pressurized, why would the high pressure gauge drop if there is no leak ?
unless you back off the low pressure side (knob or screw between gauges) it will discharge gas until it equalizes, if connected to a keg that will be the keg pressure, if not connected to anything it vents to atmosphere i.e. zero. If your connection at the tank is tight and no leaks in the regulator you can open the tank with the regulator backed off and the hi pressure gauge should hold pressure after you close the tank valve.
 
If there is a shut-off valve and it is kept closed, after charging the regulator then closing the cylinder valve, the gauges should never drop.
If they do - and the high pressure gauge will surely drop well before the low pressure gauge - there's a leak extant.

I had this happen - but ever so slowly - because of an auto/manual PRV valve that had a thread leak. It was so slow I didn't notice it for a couple of years - this was on the reg I use for CO2-push transfers, so the cylinder valve is usually closed. It was really dumb luck that I even noticed there was a leak...

PRV_leak_01.jpg


Cheers!
 
Ok so I unhooked the one keg I had in the kegerator (it had kicked a couple days before) pressurized the system and now both gauges seem to be holding pressure, so I guess there was a leak at the o ring between the keg and the sanke coupler, that sucks because it's a brand new coupler.

Thanks for all the help.

Cheers
 
Check all the connections at that end are tight and lubricated and you should find it.
I'd love an alarm on the cylinder outflow to the kegs or a meter that showed how much gas was being used. Would make leak finding a lot easier.

If you hadn't got a new reg and been looking at it critically you might have just turned it on and slowly lost CO2 for ages or forever.
 
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