average cost differences DIY or purchased

[radiant-designer]

I think I've said this a few times, but if you are going to build your own control pannel look into a water jet cutting facility near you. All the tools and dies for cutting the holes for the components in to the control panel is similar in cost plus the water jet cutting facility will do it much more precise and clean on their C&C system.

Ive heard this and on the forum for electric brewery one person mentioned a place in nh, where i live, that does this. They already did one and had a great review. Thanks, keep the tips coming.

 

[radiant-designer]

Just throwing this out there.

I'm finishing up my eHerms system right now. I went with two 5500w elements, and wired it all up to support "back to back" brewing so that I can fire both elements at the same time if I wanted to.

Total cost so far is just under $800.

This includes the panel, switches, lights, wiring, contactors, SSR's, PID, PWM circuit, power cables, plugs, adapters, 50A spa panel (GFCI), Chugger pump, hoses, quick disconnects, 5500w elements (x2), float switches, RTD, and basically everything else you need EXCEPT the keggles/diptubes/mash tun(cooler).

Hope this helps!

Wow, thats all?... Im really looking forward to starting this

 

[jtkratzer]

Wow, thats all?... Im really looking forward to starting this

I'm in for a bit more than that, but I bought a used Sabco Brew Magic system, two CO2 tanks, 5 kegs, and a two tap tower for $500.

I had next to nothing for equipment for all grain, so I was really starting from the ground up. All I had was a 10 gallon cooler MLT, but I sold that after getting my hands on the Brew Magic.

With that in mind, and not having any kettles bigger than a 7 gallon turkey fryer, I'm not too far off on the investment.

 

[Durhamite]

Wow, thats all?... Im really looking forward to starting this

Yeah, there are ways to keep your costs down and still have a great/functional system.

For instance, my build is fairly cheap because I bought a Fiberglass/plastic enclosure (ebay) instead of a metal enclosure. It works and looks great.

I also went with aluminum quick disconnects (www.proflowdynamics.com).

PM me your email address and I'll send you my spreadsheet and some photos.

 

[Bsquared]

Speaking of plumbing, I went tri-clamp and am scared to think of how much I've spent. If you want stainless go cam lock, it's about 1/4 the cost from brewers hardware. There is also a component thread on the Electric forum that has some venders with great prices.

Also think about three way valves, they cost a little more up front but I love not having to move hoses during the brew day.

 

[radiant-designer]

Yeah i was thinking of having an easy way to divert the flow from one location to another, so the 3 way should work nicely for that.

Tri-clamps would probably be ideal but with the costs so much more I may go with stainless quick connects.

 

[CidahMastah]

Yeah i was thinking of having an easy way to divert the flow from one location to another, so the 3 way should work nicely for that.

Tri-clamps would probably be ideal but with the costs so much more I may go with stainless quick connects.

I went with camlocks and really like them. Simple to use and while not cheap, better price than many types of stainless disconnects.

I will say, based on my experience with hose quick disconnects, etc., I was very reluctant to use them because I always seemed to find them leaking after a while. I never used the stainless QD type, so not sure how well they perform in the brewing scenario. Ultimately the price kept me back off using QD since I went the herms route and ultimately plan to have 3 pumps (lots of connections needed, lots of $ in hardware).

 

[Bsquared]

I know it looks like a spidery mess, but here are some images of my 3way valves. The first after the pump is a T style followed by a L style.

 

[CidahMastah]

When I looked at the 3way ball valves the cheapest I saw them was for about $50 shipped. It was cheaper to buy two separate ball valves and hardware than it was to have the 3way (just a FWIW)

 

[radiant-designer]

Ok, I have a few bucks that I can throw at this (about $500) without the Wife to Be noticing. So I was thinking of getting the 20x20 enclosure and a few other things,

For those of you who have dont his and have a spreadheet I would appreciate some help of where you found your parts and what you used.

 

[kosmokramer]

Id appreciate a look at any spreadsheets people have to share with cost/sourcing info

 

[lschiavo]

Here is a pretty simple / not too expensive 50A build: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/50a-hlt-boil-controller-277903/

The part list is not complete and stay away from the fuseholders on there as I could not find that size fuse for reasonable $

 

[radiant-designer]

For a point of reference, I have $981 in my 50 amp, Kal clone, control box. That includes shipping on all items. If you have trouble finding something let me know and I can point you to a supplier.

At that price I would say its hard to beat. If it looks and functions like Kal's then i may just dip into reserves and dig up the rest.

Im beginning to debate if the Stainless pumps are worth it for the price i have seen them.

 

[runs4beer]

At that price I would say its hard to beat. If it looks and functions like Kal's then i may just dip into reserves and dig up the rest.

Im beginning to debate if the Stainless pumps are worth it for the price i have seen them.

I thought $154 delivered was/is worth the price...

http://chuggerpumps.com/product.php?prodid=222

 

[jtkratzer]

Id appreciate a look at any spreadsheets people have to share with cost/sourcing info

Doesn't P-J have a pretty comprehensive list of parts with prices and links?

He doesn't do the voltage and amp meters, but definitely a sufficient list to put a build together. The last few odds and ends can be found either on Kal's site or the links he posted.

I thought $154 delivered was/is worth the price...

http://chuggerpumps.com/product.php?prodid=222

If a non-stainless pump head is rated to 250*, is there that much of a benefit to stainless?

 

[radiant-designer]

For $154 that isnt bad at all, i was looking at the ones listed on Kal's website for more than twice that! Thats why I was wondering if it was worth going the stainless route.

P-J does have a list that is VERY good, I am just trying to wrap my head around how many I need of each thing.

 

[P-J]

Doesn't P-J have a pretty comprehensive list of parts with prices and links?

He doesn't do the voltage and amp meters, but definitely a sufficient list to put a build together. The last few odds and ends can be found either on Kal's site or the links he posted.

Yes. I've done a few Excel sheets.

This is the latest edition: (Click the link to download) Brewparts_Order.xls

If wanted it can be saved on your system. It is 'protected' so that it can be navigated with the Tab/Back Tab" key. To unprotect it to add items that you want, go to "tools - protection'. (Tab navigation will not work unless the sheet is protected.)

The "row & column" headers are also hidden. To show them, go to "tools-options" and then check "row & column headers". This way you can insert rows to add additional items that you want to show.

The first column is the supplier. It is a hyperlink to their online site.
The second column is the specific part and is a hyperlink to that part.

Hope that this is helpful.

P-J