well.... Since i work from home.. My keggerator is within 15 paces
+1
well.... Since i work from home.. My keggerator is within 15 paces
2. Missing the mash temperature. (Usually low when using cooler type mash tuns)
To avoid this common problem there are two things I suggest:
1. Pre-heat your mash tun with hot or boiling water. This water is drained from the tun right before the strike water is added. Using this method will pre-heat the tun so not as much heat will be pulled from the strike water when added .
2. Heat your strike water about 2 or 3 degrees above your target temp, pour the water into the tun, and let the temp drop to your target. By the time you reach your strike temp, the tun should be conditioned and when the grains are mixed in you will hit your desired mash temp and it will hold longer.
Is there any reason to not just use the pre-heat water? If I want to mash @ say 154F which calls for strike water @ 168F. Is there anything wrong with add 175F water to my converted cooler tun letting it stabilize then letting it cool to 168F (maybe add a couple ice cubes) then mixing in grains?
Is there any reason to not just use the pre-heat water? If I want to mash @ say 154F which calls for strike water @ 168F. Is there anything wrong with add 175F water to my converted cooler tun letting it stabilize then letting it cool to 168F (maybe add a couple ice cubes) then mixing in grains?
dojcak123 said:I'm new to all grain brewing. I've had a lot of problems so far. My first 3 batches went sour,not sure y. last night I boiled my wort and some sort of white strings where all through my boil. it was so bad that it cloged my valve when transfering to fermenter. I need help!!!!
Get yourself a 1/2 keg and cut the top off. That's a 15 gallon brew pot. Then you'll need a propane burner, like for a turkey fryer, to boil the 15 gallon pot.Hey I need help, Thinking about going all grain, and I need some advice about equipment, I want to do 5 Gal batches or 10 gallon batches. as of now all I have is a 5 Gal pott.what would be the best way to go for setting up with a budget but I want to do it right the first time around.
I can hit any strike temp I want rather easily, depending on what style of beer I'm making..
I've never seen that approach mentioned before, is there any reason that wouldn't work?
I'm still pretty new to AG brewing; I've only done three batches of AG so far so I'm definitely still working out the kinks in my system. One of my biggest issues has been getting my mash to the right temperature. I'm using a converted 5-gal cooler with a false bottom for a mash/lauter tun.
Would it be possible to do the following:
1) Heat strike water in brewpot to 10-15 degrees higher than desired
2) add grains to brewpot
3) adjust temperature as necessary to get desired mash temp
4) move the whole mash to my cooler mash/lauter tun
I've never seen that approach mentioned before, is there any reason that wouldn't work?
The only issue I can think of is concerns with aerating the mash when you pour everything into the cooler, or perhaps some additional temp loss when transferring to cooler. Has anyone ever tried this?
How does one know what the strike temp should be for differend styles of beer?
I'm still pretty new to AG brewing; I've only done three batches of AG so far so I'm definitely still working out the kinks in my system. One of my biggest issues has been getting my mash to the right temperature. I'm using a converted 5-gal cooler with a false bottom for a mash/lauter tun.
Would it be possible to do the following:
1) Heat strike water in brewpot to 10-15 degrees higher than desired
2) add grains to brewpot
3) adjust temperature as necessary to get desired mash temp
4) move the whole mash to my cooler mash/lauter tun
I've never seen that approach mentioned before, is there any reason that wouldn't work?
The only issue I can think of is concerns with aerating the mash when you pour everything into the cooler, or perhaps some additional temp loss when transferring to cooler. Has anyone ever tried this?
is there any difference between igloo's 10 gallon coolers? the one commonly sold includes 'industrial' in the label but the one for $40 at walmart does not. the walmart one also contains a drink dispenser, which i won't need.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Igloo-Beverage-Jug-Orange-and-White-10-Gallon/14550424
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N6SB/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Not to completely change the subject matter of this informative subject, but the Barley Crusher gain mill caught my attention. My LBS is a decent driving distance. I checked out the Barley Crusher website, and like what I see: made in the USA which is important; even made in Michigan.One more thing: If you grind your own grain, make sure your cordless drill batteries are charged.
I am positive I charged them both last week, but I guess when they get two or three years old, they lose the charge even if you don't use them. The one in the drill wouldn't even turn. The backup went about half a turn.
Thankfully, I got the Barley Crusher, which comes with a hand crank. It took ten minutes instead of 90 seconds, but I got my batch done.
Not to completely change the subject matter of this informative subject, but the Barley Crusher gain mill caught my attention. My LBS is a decent driving distance. I checked out the Barley Crusher website, and like what I see: made in the USA which is important; even made in Michigan.
From the Starderup post, I see he likes the mill. Appreciate any thoughts before I place an order. They come in two sizes: 7 & 15 pound hoppers. Any preferences. Thanks.
I apologize if this question was already covered, as I didn't get through all 20 pages.
But, my false bottom hold two gallons of water under it. So, if I stick to 1-1.25 quarts per pound of grain, then the top of my mash will not be submerged in water. How much will my efficiency be hurt if I use too much mash water? Also, is it really a big problem if I just boil longer to remove the excess water? (that is, assuming I am not brewing a very pale pils for which I do not want excessive caramelized sugars)?
If I have a recipe with 12 pounds of grains, that would be 3.75 gallons for the mash. But then 1.2 gallon per pound for the sparge would add another 6 gallons, totaling nearly 10 gallons for the boil. It is supposed to be a 5 gallon batch. Where am I going wrong?
Thanks!
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