Attention new all grain brewers!

[plumber_bob]

I had excellent results from using only 2 row base malt and Cascade hops.
20lbs base
1oz of hops at 90, then 15, and at flame out.

It amazed me how such a simple recipe could turn out so good.

pb

 

[Trippel-A]

What do people think about things like Northern Brewer's instructional DVD? Any good? Will I find better info on YouTube?

We made our first mini-mash, recently, and the hardest part was definitely temperature control. We're pretty good at planning, staging, calculations, etc... I came to the conclusion that mini-mash adds much of the complicated process of AG, but without the useful, helpful equipment!

 

[jimbodini2000]

Great post, Rich. I should've read this before I posted my recent question on yield and efficiency.

 

[Trippel-A]

That is good information. I never thought of that. I wonder why that happens?

More grain to heat up, right? Ergo, more heat transfer into the grain?

 

[HoppingC]

My second AG i wanted to do a big beer. Up gradaded to a 10 gallon igloo and found out 27 pounds of grain is too much! Got stuck sparge,(using bazooka screen now have false bottom), 2.5 gallons short, and 2% abv less than what i was suppose to get. Trial and error my friends. Should of def did more research on the coolers grain capacity and followed closer to the water to grain ratio.

 

[BobFV]

Hi All - I am a long time lurker and just recently joined HBT - this is my first post. I am very impressed with the knowledge of the community here. I have been extract brewing off and on since the late 1980's, and I am lucky enough to have a pretty good setup and equipment in my workshop for brewing.

After a great deal of research and reading, I purchased an NB 10 gallon system and did my inaugural AG brewday last weekend. Everything seemed to work great except for the fact that I had a low OG - only about 1.032. I was brewing a milled NB California Commons AG kit. I measured the OG at room temperature after the boil.

I know there are many things which may account for the low OG - but I think I isolated this one and I want to run it past the wisdom of the forum. After my wort boil, I used my copper wort chiller AND about 1.5 pounds of ice made from my home well water, which is also what I use to brew with. I used the ice because that is what I have always done as an extract brewer. It now seems to me that by diluting the wort, I can easily account for the low OG, and I need to not do that on my next batch.

I throw myself at your mercy - let me know if you validate or call shenanigans on my theory. Thanks!

 

[Denny]

If your final volume was correct, you didn't over dilute the wort. It's more likely to be due to incomplete mixing of the wort and water released by the ice.

 

[Epimetheus]

I used the ice because that is what I have always done as an extract brewer. It now seems to me that by diluting the wort, I can easily account for the low OG, and I need to not do that on my next batch.

I throw myself at your mercy - let me know if you validate or call shenanigans on my theory. Thanks!

You can calculate the OG change due to the ice before you add it. If it did not affect your extract batches, then I suspect a different cause for the unexpected gravity of the all grain batch. I take readings before and after I add any makeup water. Ice is makeup water.

 

[BobFV]

If your final volume was correct, you didn't over dilute the wort. It's more likely to be due to incomplete mixing of the wort and water released by the ice.

You can calculate the OG change due to the ice before you add it. If it did not affect your extract batches, then I suspect a different cause for the unexpected gravity of the all grain batch. I take readings before and after I add any makeup water. Ice is makeup water.

Denny thanks - in fact my final volume was substantially high - about 6 gallons or so in my 6.5 gallon glass carboy.

Epimetheus - on my extract batches I counted the ice as "make-up water" and compensated to hit my final volume.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Denny]

Well, there ya go, Bob! At least you know for next time.

 

[Puddlethumper]

Sounds like you may be diluting your wort. I had a similar experience.

I started AG last winter and had a run of low OG batches. Found the problem was rooted in the amount of water used in my boil. I was ending up with big batches of beer but low ABV. Now I'm trying for around 6.75 gal. at the beginning of the boil and, with careful attention to temps during the boil my OG readings are coming out much better.

 

[BobFV]

Sounds like you may be diluting your wort. I had a similar experience.

I started AG last winter and had a run of low OG batches. Found the problem was rooted in the amount of water used in my boil. I was ending up with big batches of beer but low ABV. Now I'm trying for around 6.75 gal. at the beginning of the boil and, with careful attention to temps during the boil my OG readings are coming out much better.

Thanks Puddlethumper I think you may be right. I went towards the high end on strike water last time, and I use femcap to prevent boil overs but I think that results in more diluted wort also. I am going to try my second AG batch tomorrow.

 

[the_adj]

I'm going to make my 1st AG brew soon to celebrate some friends having their 1st child and I had some questions about the recipe/final product (and please redirect me if need be).

I went to an AG class at my LHBS and I asked about wanting a thicker, perhaps even maltier beer along with great hop flavor and nose. Basically DFH 90 minute or the like I guess. He told me that in general doing a longer boil will cause (insert scientific word I can't remember) which will give a thicker (is it appropriate to call it more bodied?) beer.

This is a character I desire in most of my beers so I'll probably incorporate it regularly. I guess that also means mashing at a higher temp, like 152+? I'd still want ABV at 5%+ (I'll likely be brewing mostly IPA, APA.. anything PA.. God I love hops.)

I know I still need to do some research on Dry Hopping as well as I'm sure that will be incorporated. I'm also hoping to keg all this stuff. Have I left anything out? If you need more variables to the situation let me know!

Thanks all, your advice has been great for 35 or so pages!

 

[masonsjax]

There are a lot of ways to increase body for a thicker mouthfeel. Mashing higher (I've gone as high as 160F); starting with a higher gravity recipe can result in a thicker maltier beer; adding less fermentable sugars to the recipe, like lactose; using grains that add to mouthfeel (wheat, oats, flaked barley, etc.); a nitrogen or beer gas system for pouring from the keg can enhance the creamy texture, as can slightly higher carbonation levels.

I'm a little uncertain about just boiling longer having the effect you're looking for. I do occasionally boil for 90 mins, but my goal there is usually to help drive off DMS precursors which are more prevalent in certain types of grain like pilsner, or to increase bittering hops exposure like when making a DFH 90 minute IPA clone. It certainly wouldn't hurt though.

 

[HawgDaddy]

Good morning fellow all grainers....quick question that'll take a few to explain....I have about a 4 week old porter that I was trying to "pumpkin spice" up....with no fresh pumpkin at all....just spices.

After about 4 wks of fermenting/conditioning....it's sort of bland....or plain porter'ish....I knowingly undershot my spices so as not to overdo it....and I succeeded too well.

Now to the question....It's carb'ed just right....however, I want to de-pressurize the keg....add some cold vodka steeped coffee grounds (the liquid only) into the keg....changing it to a "coffee/porter". The pumpkin spices are all but non-existent....I'm just wanting to salvage the porter from just a "plain" porter.

Anyone done this? Is this a NO-NO due to the introduction of O2....I can recharge and purge any ambient air ASAP if that's not a death sentence....Everything is/will be sanitized....

Thanks in advance and for your time....

 

[the_adj]

Thanks Mason, that's helpful info. I'll certainly let you know how it goes as I dive into this stuff!

 

[TastyAdventure]

Something you missed that I don't think has been mentioned yet - proper grain crush. .

Would running it threw my LHBS mill twice help much?

 

[Denny]

Would running it threw my LHBS mill twice help much?

Sure would. Or at least, should!

 

[the_adj]

I'm hoping some of you more expert brewers can help this 1st timer. I tried to stick as close to recipe as possible but ran into a few snags and am curious how this will impact the final product.

*** Original recipe from Lodovico:
Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: US-05
Yeast Starter: Rehydrated Dry
Additional Yeast or Yeast Starter: N/A
Batch Size (Gallons): 6
Original Gravity: 1070
Final Gravity: 1016
IBU: 98
Boiling Time (Minutes): 90
Color: 9.6
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 16 days @ 67
Additional Fermentation: N/A
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): N/A
Tasting Notes: Aroma is like having your head in a bag of oranges. So drinkable.

14.5# American Two Row
1.3# Cara-Pils
1.3# Crystal 40
.50# Munich

Mash for 60 minutes at 152. 90 minute boil.

Hop Additions:

90 Min- .50 oz Chinook (11.5% AA)
.50 oz Simcoe (12% AA)

60 Min- .25 oz Chinook
.25 oz Simcoe

30 Min- .25 oz Chinook
.25 oz Simcoe

15 Min- .75 Simcoe
.75 Chinook
.50 Amarillo (11.5%)

10 Min- 1 oz. Cascade (5.8%)

O Min- .50 Chinook
.75 Simcoe

Dry Hop- 2 oz. Amarillo
1.5 oz. Cascade
.5 oz Chinook


1 oz. of American Medium Toast Oak Cubes is added at the same time you pitch your yeast.

So I did this...
Mashed in 5.3 gals on 17.6 #s of grain @ 169. Grain was 65 and cooler w/ false bottom @ 60. It seemed very soupy? After 10 mins temp was 147. Over the course of an hour I added varying amounts of increasingly hot water (about 1.5 qts all said and done) and got maybe a 1* raise.

Fearing too much dilution I took off 1.5 gals from mash tun and heated it to 189.5. I poured this back in and stirred and got to 154 in the mash tun.

I let it sit for an hour (temp held steady) then drained. Like an noob I forgot to do an iodine test.

I then batch sparged using apprx 6 gals @ 175. This took mash tun to 159. I stirred and let sit for 10 mins then drained.

Collected apprx 8 gals in BK.

Other changes to the recipe:

* Added the 90 min addition at flame-on. (FWH, right?)
* Added 1.25 oz Simcoe at 0 mins instead of 0.75 it called for.
* Added ~0.8 oz. Medium Toast Hungarian Oak Shavings (per LHBS)
* my gravity reading was at 1.060 instead of the 1.076 beersmith2 predicted

Collected ~ 6 gals in a 6.5 gal bucket. Re-hydrated 1 packet of US-05. Didn't see much action in the jar. Pitched anyways. 24 hours later little to no action in bucket. See picture. I went ahead and bought another US-05 from a diff LHBS and pitched it tonight. It looked better in jar but still not amazing. Trying to ferment w/ blow-off tube in a chest freezer @ apprx 66*.

My main concerns are: - what the hell will all this do to the flavor? I've had some bad luck with extract brews in the past. - the taste concerns me a little. Smell is good. The sweetness is nice and I know that will ferment well. But the end/aftertaste is super bitter. like.. mouth puckering. I'm a hop-head and all but dayum. Any thoughts on how this will end up in 3 weeks after being dry hopped and kegged?

I'm so thankful to anyone who can offer insight into this. I know I'm just a nervous nancy but I've had bad luck in the past and I'm worried I flubbed up again. What should I have done different (other than pre-heating mash tun)?

 

[TastyAdventure]

I'm hoping some of you more expert brewers can help this 1st timer. I tried to stick as close to recipe as possible but ran into a few snags and am curious how this will impact the final product.

*** Original recipe from Lodovico:
Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: US-05
Yeast Starter: Rehydrated Dry
Additional Yeast or Yeast Starter: N/A
Batch Size (Gallons): 6
Original Gravity: 1070
Final Gravity: 1016
IBU: 98
Boiling Time (Minutes): 90
Color: 9.6
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 16 days @ 67
Additional Fermentation: N/A
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): N/A
Tasting Notes: Aroma is like having your head in a bag of oranges. So drinkable.

14.5# American Two Row
1.3# Cara-Pils
1.3# Crystal 40
.50# Munich

Mash for 60 minutes at 152. 90 minute boil.

Hop Additions:

90 Min- .50 oz Chinook (11.5% AA)
.50 oz Simcoe (12% AA)

60 Min- .25 oz Chinook
.25 oz Simcoe

30 Min- .25 oz Chinook
.25 oz Simcoe

15 Min- .75 Simcoe
.75 Chinook
.50 Amarillo (11.5%)

10 Min- 1 oz. Cascade (5.8%)

O Min- .50 Chinook
.75 Simcoe

Dry Hop- 2 oz. Amarillo
1.5 oz. Cascade
.5 oz Chinook

1 oz. of American Medium Toast Oak Cubes is added at the same time you pitch your yeast.

So I did this...
Mashed in 5.3 gals on 17.6 #s of grain @ 169. Grain was 65 and cooler w/ false bottom @ 60. It seemed very soupy? After 10 mins temp was 147. Over the course of an hour I added varying amounts of increasingly hot water (about 1.5 qts all said and done) and got maybe a 1* raise.

Fearing too much dilution I took off 1.5 gals from mash tun and heated it to 189.5. I poured this back in and stirred and got to 154 in the mash tun.

I let it sit for an hour (temp held steady) then drained. Like an noob I forgot to do an iodine test.

I then batch sparged using apprx 6 gals @ 175. This took mash tun to 159. I stirred and let sit for 10 mins then drained.

Collected apprx 8 gals in BK.

Other changes to the recipe:

* Added the 90 min addition at flame-on. (FWH, right?)
* Added 1.25 oz Simcoe at 0 mins instead of 0.75 it called for.
* Added ~0.8 oz. Medium Toast Hungarian Oak Shavings (per LHBS)
* my gravity reading was at 1.060 instead of the 1.076 beersmith2 predicted

Collected ~ 6 gals in a 6.5 gal bucket. Re-hydrated 1 packet of US-05. Didn't see much action in the jar. Pitched anyways. 24 hours later little to no action in bucket. See picture. I went ahead and bought another US-05 from a diff LHBS and pitched it tonight. It looked better in jar but still not amazing. Trying to ferment w/ blow-off tube in a chest freezer @ apprx 66*.

My main concerns are: - what the hell will all this do to the flavor? I've had some bad luck with extract brews in the past. - the taste concerns me a little. Smell is good. The sweetness is nice and I know that will ferment well. But the end/aftertaste is super bitter. like.. mouth puckering. I'm a hop-head and all but dayum. Any thoughts on how this will end up in 3 weeks after being dry hopped and kegged?

I'm so thankful to anyone who can offer insight into this. I know I'm just a nervous nancy but I've had bad luck in the past and I'm worried I flubbed up again. What should I have done different (other than pre-heating mash tun)?

Did you make sure you stirred up all the grain real well? ("Dough balls" in the mash decrease efficiency.)
In my opinion you used too much hops even for an IPA but I'm no hop head...
Carbonation always helps the beers taste.

 

[masonsjax]

I wouldn't expect to see action from simply rehydrating dry yeast. Action comes from giving them something sweet to feast on.

Sounds to me like you did pretty well. I would recommend using a strike water calculator next time to figure out what temp to heat the strike water to in order to hit your target mash temp. Aim a few degrees higher and leet the water sit in your cooler for a few minutes to preheat the cooler itself. Then let the temp come down almost to your calculated strike temp and add grain. Stir like mad until you hit the target temp and close her up.

Nothing wrong with a thin mash other than being aware you'll have to account for more water when figuring your temps. More water can actually help you hold a steady temp due to more thermal mass.

 

[BobFV]

Hi all,

Very experienced extract brewer, newb (4 batches) all-grain brewer checking in again. I think I am getting the hang of AG and want to upgrade my set-up a bit. Right now I am using an igloo cooler with a false bottom as my mash/lauter tun. I heat water in my brew kettle and transfer it to the cooler for the mash-in, then I add boiling water at the end of the rest for the mash-out.

Excuse me if this seems like a bonehead question, but we all have to start somewhere. I was thinking that I would get a large (15 gallon) Polar Ware pot with a false bottom and use it as my mash/lauter tun. What appeals to me is the ability then to keep it on the burner and to add heat if the temperature drops, and also the ability to just turn on the burner at the end of the sacch rest and raise the temp to 170 for mash-out. I assume it is totally fine to do it this way but just wanted to check with some more experienced AG brewers. My plan would be to get a second floor burner and pump so I can prepare my HLT during the sacch rest.

Appreciate any comments provided by the collective wisdom of the forum. Thanks in advance.

 

[masonsjax]

If you batch sparge a mash out is not necessary. It won't hurt, but you can skip it, the wort is in the kettle and on its way to a boil before excessive enzymatic action would be a problem.

 

[WizardBill]

Sorry if this is idiotic. I have searched and searched these forums. I cannot understand the AG process.

I have figured out that I gave to bake my barley for a time. Then, I soak it. Then, I rinse it.

Here is my problem in understanding. If I rinse it, how can I collect the sugar?

Thanks for answering a probably obvious question.

 

[WizardBill]

Whoops. That was an incomplete question. When I rinse, is THAT what I collect, and if so, how can I control the volume of water during the rinse?

OR, am I failing to understand the process?

 

[plumber_bob]

You don't have to bake your grains first. The grain should be malted when you buy them.
Put the crushed grains in the mash tun with your water. Let that set for an hour or more.

Next you start to drain the wort into the boil kettle while sparging, or rinsing. All that goes into the boil kettle. Boil for 60 minutes or more And add hops as per the schedule.

Once done with the boil the wort is the cooled and moved to the fermenter.

There are more ways to sparge, and a few ways to cool wort. But I'm typing on my phone so I'll let others chime in to elaborate.

pb

 

[Denny]

Whoops. That was an incomplete question. When I rinse, is THAT what I collect, and if so, how can I control the volume of water during the rinse?

OR, am I failing to understand the process?

Read this, then come back and ask questions.

http://howtobrew.com/section3/index.html

 

[NickTheGreat]

Read this, then come back and ask questions.

http://howtobrew.com/section3/index.html

I had this page open on my phone and read it side by side for my first AG brew or two. It really helped me figure out what the heck was going on. nestar:

 

[gommy]

Hi there one thing I would like to know is it american gallons or English u are talking about thanks

 

[NickTheGreat]

I don't *know* 100% but I'm fairly certain it is US Gallons.