smata67
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Assess My Grind
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smata67
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OP
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smata67
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Sifted through a 1/8" strainer and separated.
It looks good to me. I’m assuming the whole looking pieces are actually cracked and not separated. I’m also assuming you sifted for observation purposes on the new mill.
wilserbrewer
BIAB Expert Tailor
I crush more....fwiw
Dustin_J
Well-Known Member
What kind of system are you running? That looks pretty similar to my grind (.040), but I run a HERMS system that's constantly recirculating, so even a little too fine can be a real problem. If you're doing BIAB, you could probably go quite a bit more fine. If you're doing a single infusion non-recirculating mash (picnic cooler, etc.) you could probably go a touch finer as others have mentioned.
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![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
What mashing system is in use? The grind on the right seems, at least to me, too much. If I'm seeing correctly, some appears flour like, which is normally not wanted.
Remember, with the grind we only want to crack the husk. This is why some breweries do a wet grind. I don't recommend a wet grind unless the mill in use is able to handle being wet without rusting.
Remember, with the grind we only want to crack the husk. This is why some breweries do a wet grind. I don't recommend a wet grind unless the mill in use is able to handle being wet without rusting.
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It depends. BIAB? Crush finer. Traditional with sparge - it looks good if all the whole looking ones are cracked open. If not tighten it up. Or you can tighten a little each time you brew until your drain gets slow then open it a touch. Also take a look at your efficiency, if low grind finer unless you are already getting a slow drain.
Mine looks more crushed than that.
Mine looks more crushed than that.
OP
OP
smata67
Well-Known Member
The pictures I posted, they are of a handful of Viking Pilsener run through the mill at the .039 setting. The first is the result on white paper that would more clearly show the husks, the second on purple paper so the white kernel is highlighted, and the third is the same handful sifted to separate the husks from white kernel material and compare proportion. There are no intact kernels, perhaps 5% have kept their shape, but have been split/cracked open. 90% of the kernels appear to be ripped in half or 75/25. Maybe a small proportion of pulverized husk.
So what I'm hearing is that for a single infusion, I could probably go a bit tighter in increments until I start having problems draining the mash tun. The tun is a 50 quart rectangular thing with a network of cpvc pipes laid on the bottom I cut slits into. I have not had a problem draining with it in the 5 or so batches I've done, except I'm probably draining it too fast. I have some very large paint strainers I was planning on using to contain the grain and make it easier to clean when done, which could qualify as a BIAB, but the mesh may not be as tight as some are using. They are these, but I paid $5.90 for the 5, not $25:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074KGMX4V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If I am definitely not milling too fine, I will probably go with this for my first batch and see how it goes. I was consistently getting 62% efficiency with the pre-milled grain from MoreBeer, I have the feeling I will be substantially higher than that now.
So what I'm hearing is that for a single infusion, I could probably go a bit tighter in increments until I start having problems draining the mash tun. The tun is a 50 quart rectangular thing with a network of cpvc pipes laid on the bottom I cut slits into. I have not had a problem draining with it in the 5 or so batches I've done, except I'm probably draining it too fast. I have some very large paint strainers I was planning on using to contain the grain and make it easier to clean when done, which could qualify as a BIAB, but the mesh may not be as tight as some are using. They are these, but I paid $5.90 for the 5, not $25:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074KGMX4V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If I am definitely not milling too fine, I will probably go with this for my first batch and see how it goes. I was consistently getting 62% efficiency with the pre-milled grain from MoreBeer, I have the feeling I will be substantially higher than that now.
Hmm... my mill is set at 0.045" gap (I use a HERMS), but .039 doesn't seem unreasonable.
What type of mash is causing the drain problem? Maybe add a handful of rice hulls? Before I created my new brewery a few years ago I did the same (slots cut into copper pipe).
Yes, IMO, 62% is a bit low efficiency, but let's not get hung up on efficiency. We want to make good beer!
What type of mash is causing the drain problem? Maybe add a handful of rice hulls? Before I created my new brewery a few years ago I did the same (slots cut into copper pipe).
Yes, IMO, 62% is a bit low efficiency, but let's not get hung up on efficiency. We want to make good beer!
62% efficiency is very low. Even with an LHBS grind. Other factors may be the cause. An average is about 70%. I would crush finer. And using bags to contain the hops in a cooler is not really BIAB. But even then you could grind much finer.
What type of sparging are you doing? Batch sparge or fly sparge. You could probably go a bit tighter with a batch sparge, opposed to a fly sparge.
What type of sparging are you doing? Batch sparge or fly sparge. You could probably go a bit tighter with a batch sparge, opposed to a fly sparge.
Soulshine2
Well-Known Member
its going to depend on rate it takes your mash to sparge out. My mill is set at .035 I think thats the lowest limit .I mill twice and I do fine without adding rice hulls .
That looks similar to what you had for my first home crushed grains. So me flour, lots of broken kernels and only a few whole ones making it through. Hardest part was remembering husks are good things, I got over 70% but I do biab and dunk sparge.
- I get 82% and set mill a credit card thick.. = .030 inches. I have a unique mash tun that will not get stuck. Send me an email and I will send you photos etc as I have no idea how to post photos here.
"I have no idea how to post photos here." Simply click the "Upload a File" button and select the photo. Then, pick if the whole photo or a thumbnail is shown in the post.
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Makes me want to give up drinking or drink more.
Nate R
Well-Known Member
Thank you. Was grabbed by the title and knew this had to be done. You beat me to the punch. Kudos.
probably more....
dwhite60
Well-Known Member
I have mine set to credit card thickness and get 78%. Yesterday I did barley and wheat at the same setting. I'll go a bit finer doing BIAB.
All the Best,
D. White
Gnomebrewer
Well-Known Member
Contrary to what is commonly stated on here, grind doesn't cause poor efficiency as long as all grains are broken open. Well, kind of. Providing you mash for long enough, preferably with a rest at the higher end of the conversion range (mainly to help extraction of starches from the grain), you should hit close to 100% conversion efficiency. That may well take longer than the typical 1 hour mash though. My first piece of advice for anyone with efficiency issues (providing the crush isn't leaving whole grains) is to mash until the mash is complete rather than mashing to a timeframe.
And usually full conversion is done in well under an hour. Maybe as little as 15 minutes.
Gnomebrewer
Well-Known Member
Conversion happens very quickly, but starch extraction/gelatinisation takes much longer with a coarser grind (conversion can't happen if the starch hasn't gelatinised). My cheap, crappy grain mill will only crush down to a bit coarser than the OP photo's (trying to crush finer than that, the grain just doesn't run through the rollers). With that crush, it typically takes about 75 minutes to reach 95% to 100% conversion, and much longer if I don't ramp temperatures to about 160F to get the final few points of gravity.
What that means is that the common advice for a brewer with poor efficiency is to crush finer. While that will work (and is still valid advice), efficiency can also be improved (close to 100% conversion can be achieved) by simply mashing for longer. Thus, a brewer who needs to rely on HBS crush can achieve good efficiency (as long as there aren't too many whole/uncrushed grains). Anyone having efficiency issues or who wants to measure conversion efficiency (as opposed to simply using iodine to see when conversion is complete) should use this spreadsheet
http://braukaiser.com/documents/efficiency_calculator.xls
My 3 roller final gap is .035. I run a HERMS in a 120qt cooler w a manifold. I had Wilser make a custom bag. I love the ease of cleanup w no chance of a stuck mash. I’ve been finally consistent at 80%. It was higher and lower, glad to be at a set number. Buying a mill is great. Now crush to what your system likes and roll with it.
OP
OP
smata67
Well-Known Member
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