Are these chunks normal?

[TenTentacles]

I have been brewing beer for about two years now. About a month ago a friend gave me some old books her late husband had lying around. One of them was H. E. Bravery's Home Brewing Without Failures. Not much of the information in them was new to me, but the man's narrative is quite entertaining and the peek inside home brewing some fifty years ago has given me quite a few ideas. In any case, he also included some recipes and techniques for making mead and I decided to try one.

I followed all of my normal sanitization procedures and believe all is going well, however, as with anything new, I'm of course apprehensive. I'm particularly concerned about the must's slow start to fermentation (about 20 hours), and its relatively slow fermentation over all; I am accustomed to very active, gurgling, all grain ferments. I'm also curious about these 'chunks'.

The recipe contained no solids; just honey, water, some strong tea for tannins, citric acid, yeast nutrient, and, of course, yeast. I used Wyeast's Sweet Mead yeast. In the first 12 hours or so a very thick gloop began to form in the bottom of the fermenter. When I checked this morning, the gloop had begun to float to the top, in a chunky mass. Here's what it looks like:

The chunks are very slow moving and there's a burp from the airlock about every 15 seconds or so. Is this normal?

 

[CuAllaidh]

yeast will sometimes gather in chunks, and that might be what you are seeing, but its hard to say for sure. My guess is you are probably ok. Based on your recipe I can't see what else it could be.

 

[biochemedic]

It would seem to me that the short time frame here would go against these being any kind of product of infection. Perhaps this could be some sort of precipitation reaction of honey proteins and other dissolved substances?

I note that you had added citric acid (which I believe should really be added at bottling if it's needed to enhance the flavor - you could also say the same for tannin, BTW) -- perhaps the pH was lowered enough to contribute to this occurance? Low pH can also inhibit fermentation, so could account for the less than overwhelming start.

Further, you make no mention of yeast nutrient! This is really important for mead, as honey does not have enough micronutrients for healthy yeast fermentation. If you hadn't put any in, I'd get some and make an addition ASAP.

Finally, in terms of the slow start, another possibility is it's just the yeast; I've heard some people comment that the Wyeast sweet mead is somewhat quirky...I've used it once with very good results, but some people definitely don't like that yeast.

 

[CuAllaidh]

Further, you make no mention of yeast nutrient! This is really important for mead, as honey does not have enough micronutrients for healthy yeast fermentation. If you hadn't put any in, I'd get some and make an addition ASAP.

I disagree with you on this aspect. I have never used yeast nutrients and my meads have all fermented just fine. I think yeast nutrient in mead is not needed at all. At most I throw some raisins or citrus peel in the batch.

 

[biochemedic]

I disagree with you on this aspect. I have never used yeast nutrients and my meads have all fermented just fine. I think yeast nutrient in mead is not needed at all. At most I throw some raisins or citrus peel in the batch.

OK to disagree, but the wealth of evidence and opinion is that nutrients are very important for mead fermentation. I agree that you *can* make mead without nutrients, but perhaps you can make *better* mead if your yeast is healthy and has proper nutrition...

I admit that I don't even do what is probably the optimal thing, which is SNA (staggered nutrient additions) -- it's just too much of a PITA, and I've generally just stuck with a single addition of nutrient at time of brewing. One of these days I'll actually do the SNA protocol, and see if I notice a big difference or not.

I know that "back in the day" (centuries ago) they didn't have yeast nutrient, but they also probably routinely re-used yeast slurries and/or pitched new batches right on the lees from prior batches, thus supplying a rich source (dead yeast) of nutrients.

 

[TenTentacles]

I did add yeast nutrient when I pitched the yeast; 1/4 tsp for the 1.5 gallon batch. Should I add more again? Or should I just leave it and take a Plato reading in a month as I'd planned?

 

[CuAllaidh]

I know that "back in the day" (centuries ago) they didn't have yeast nutrient, but they also probably routinely re-used yeast slurries and/or pitched new batches right on the lees from prior batches, thus supplying a rich source (dead yeast) of nutrients.

I had not considered that... I had all ways considered the no nutrient method more historically accurate, but you probably have a very valid point there. May have to do some experimentation with that. Perhaps I might try three 1 gallon batches all with the same recipe but one with no nutrients, one with nutrients added at the beginning and one staggered.

Thanks for giving me yet another project

 

[biochemedic]

I did add yeast nutrient when I pitched the yeast; 1/4 tsp for the 1.5 gallon batch. Should I add more again? Or should I just leave it and take a Plato reading in a month as I'd planned?

You could consider adding some more in a day or two, then a bit more a few days after that...sort of a modified SNA protocol... It will be OK with just what you added though...

Overall, I'd say just let it ride...forget about it for a while, and check in in a month or so.

 

[TenTentacles]

Thanks for all the advice. I think I'll let it sit another few days and then make some decisions then.

Thanks again!

 

[Kauai_Kahuna]

I would say that those clumps are most likely yeast and bees' wax lightly clumping together, it will settle once fermentation slows.

If I can just add another testimonial on SNA, with a standard batch of dry mead using 3lbs of honey per gallon I would have slow fermentions (30-45 days) and very hot esters that make the meads taste like rocket fuel for the first year or more.
Once I started using the SNA method, I am now down to the final gravity within 10 days, and a dramatic decrease in the hot taste.
Now I still like to age them as long as possible as they only get better, but I am convinced SNA is worth the minor PITA, especially with the cost of honey now.
All it took was charting the difference, and tasting the finished product.

 

[Yooper]

I disagree with you on this aspect. I have never used yeast nutrients and my meads have all fermented just fine. I think yeast nutrient in mead is not needed at all. At most I throw some raisins or citrus peel in the batch.

And I disagree with your disagreement! :cross:

Fermenting "just fine" is ok if you're happy with it. That doesn't mean that you are making the best possible product. Historically, many people drank bad beer and wine, too, that had been infected with lactobacillus (sanitizing is a new development) but it was safer than drinking the water. I wouldn't think anyone who say to skip sanitizing either even though sometimes it would turn out just fine.

Staggered nutrient additions are a proven method to make a great mead since there is very little in the way of nutrients in honey for the yeast. That's not to say you won't get fermentation without them. It's just better to use them.

By the way, we love having new people on the forum and we're happy to have you participate. But no pimping of your own site, please.

 

[Kauai_Kahuna]

The great thing about this site is how it challenges the brewer and leads to some fantastic improvements. I started brewing 15 years ago and I thought I knew it all.
Then I found this site and realized reality has changed in more than just brewing.
I really learn something new, or am challenged in some improvement every time I visit this site. "Dammmm you DYI section".