I am considering getting 4.6-62 pH test strips to check for the mash. I am currently using Brunwater to calculate the salts and minerals to target a certain pH. However, I am thinking, if I test the pH and it is off, how do I fix it? Throw more salts/minerals to adjust? How do I know how much to add?
Anyone use pH test strips?
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Both gypsum and calcium chloride will lower your pH. Dark grains lower your pH as well.
Adding water will raise it back up, but water itself only has a pH of 7.0.
Just mash-in your grains, and check your pH. If it's too high, add about a teaspoon of your minerals, stir it around, wait just a minute, and re-test. You might waste some strips when you first start out, but after a couple of batches, you'll know about how much minerals to add just from memory (and based on your grain bill), and you'll only use the test strips to confirm your process.
Adding water will raise it back up, but water itself only has a pH of 7.0.
Just mash-in your grains, and check your pH. If it's too high, add about a teaspoon of your minerals, stir it around, wait just a minute, and re-test. You might waste some strips when you first start out, but after a couple of batches, you'll know about how much minerals to add just from memory (and based on your grain bill), and you'll only use the test strips to confirm your process.
There are a number of free calculators around to help with mineral adjustments. EZ Water is the first one that comes to mind. In calculators such as these, you enter your grain bill, water amounts, etc. and then you can play with the adjustments to get to the number you want.
This does require you to know your starting water profile, though.
This does require you to know your starting water profile, though.
Thanks for your responses. I use Brunwater so I can get estimate the mash pH that way. However I have never tested it. What I am asking is, let's say I'm mashing and I test that my pH is off. Does anyone fix the pH in the middle of the mash?
No reason why you couldn't. You can add minerals directly to a finished beer in the glass. I've done it. The impact on flavor is presumably the same. I made an amber ale a couple months back, and when I tasted the beer from the keg, I thought it lacked mouthfeel, so I added some calcium chloride to my glass. Others who tried the trick agreed the beer tasted better/thicker. So, I dosed more calcium chloride directly to the keg and re-carbed it. Totally worth it.
BlueHouseBrewhaus
Well-Known Member
As for using pH strips, I wouldn't recommend them. I haven't used them but have read many posts in the Brew Science forum saying they are not particularly accurate. A pH meter is worth the investment. I had an $80 one that lasted me 3 years. I then upgraded to a Milwaukee 102, which is great and very accurate but not absolutely necessary.
Druman07
Well-Known Member
Strips are a waste, too bad, but they are. Consider getting a meter if you want to go scientific. Good ones are not cheap. I bought a cheap version which is only good to .1, so I calibrate every time i use it, and realistically I'm just playing at this point so the low resolution is not a concern.
I had thought RO water was pH 7 but a quick Google search stated it could be as low as 5. What?!?! So I went to Amazon and found these and am waiting for them to arrive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X9D4MIG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I use Brewer’s Friend and have always shot for middle of the road in case anything is a bit off. It’s worked well so far, but if I used 7 and the water was actually 6 things could be a bit problematic I’d think. These test strips, being calibrated to ~0.25, seems like they should keep me in the ballpark.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X9D4MIG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I use Brewer’s Friend and have always shot for middle of the road in case anything is a bit off. It’s worked well so far, but if I used 7 and the water was actually 6 things could be a bit problematic I’d think. These test strips, being calibrated to ~0.25, seems like they should keep me in the ballpark.
Nuno Santos
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I use these but just to check if the water is fine (pH~5.2 or close), so that it can help to diagnose any other issues later on.
Paper pH strips are a total waste of time. They are wildly inaccurate when used in brewing, due to several reasons. The first is that the colored wort can throw off your perception of the reading. In addition, pH strips perform better in solutions with higher ionic strength. Wort does not have high ionic strength.
There are plastic pH strips and they do have 'improved' accuracy, but its still far from good accuracy. The measurement we have, is a freshly calibrated pH meter that has been proven stable.
There are plastic pH strips and they do have 'improved' accuracy, but its still far from good accuracy. The measurement we have, is a freshly calibrated pH meter that has been proven stable.
If you want strips, PM your address and I'll send you my bottle for free. Learning the hardway, they are a complete waste of time and energy.
And how would they fare when testing RO water?
Sounds like it's better to do both of us a favor and not go through the hassle! Thanks though!
pH strips are not very reliable in RO water either. RO water has very low ionic strength.
Hmmmm... That still leaves me at an impasse. I’ve been shooting in the dark for some time now and things have gone well except for some darker beers, though the majority of those were using 2/3 filtered tap water that I had the once a year water report on to base my salts/acid on.
Maybe Santa will come through this year.
Maybe Santa will come through this year.
VirginiaHops1
Well-Known Member
Cheap ph meters can be had for like $10 on amazon. That's what I'm using. I calibrate mine before every brew day. I doubt it's as accurate/reliable as an expensive one, but it probably is better than ph strips and definitely better than nothing. Even if it's not perfectly accurate down to .01 at least you'll get a ballpark idea of your ph, if you want to take the time to track it.
RPh_Guy
Bringing Sour Back
Some tips
-pH strips are inaccurate and generally useless. This is from expert consensus, published data, and my own experience.
-Water pH is meaningless. Mash pH is what matters (and flavor ion levels).
-Attempting to correct mash pH during the mash is ineffective and a waste of time & effort. Simply take note and adjust the amount of acid/base the next time for that recipe.
-Measure sample at room temperature. Wait at least 10 minutes after dough-in to take sample.
-Your reading accuracy depends on your meter quality, calibration skills, and calibration solution. Use proper storage process for best results.
-pH strips are inaccurate and generally useless. This is from expert consensus, published data, and my own experience.
-Water pH is meaningless. Mash pH is what matters (and flavor ion levels).
-Attempting to correct mash pH during the mash is ineffective and a waste of time & effort. Simply take note and adjust the amount of acid/base the next time for that recipe.
-Measure sample at room temperature. Wait at least 10 minutes after dough-in to take sample.
-Your reading accuracy depends on your meter quality, calibration skills, and calibration solution. Use proper storage process for best results.
But one must know the starting pH in order to figure how much phosphoric acid is to be used.
RPh_Guy
Bringing Sour Back
Alkalinity is what matters, not pH. They don't correlate.
Decided to use the plastic strips since I have them. These are from Labrat Supplies (they refunded me - great customer support) and measure from 4.5 to 9.0 pH and have 0.25 increments.
100% RO water measured 6.5. After adding salts and 7.5 ml of 25% phosphoric acid it measured 4.5. After 35 mins in the mash it measured 5.0. I targeted 5.4. I’m curious whether or not this mash pH measurement can be assumed in the ballpark.
100% RO water measured 6.5. After adding salts and 7.5 ml of 25% phosphoric acid it measured 4.5. After 35 mins in the mash it measured 5.0. I targeted 5.4. I’m curious whether or not this mash pH measurement can be assumed in the ballpark.
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There are some that will take a small sample of their exact grist and make a little mini mash and measure the pH and then figure adjustments before making the big, real mash.
There are more that takes notes and watch for trends so that when remaking a recipe, they can adjust from last known measured point, thereby iteratively approach the desired target.
Most only do so with calibrated, accurate, drift-checked, stable pH meters.
You really don't know what you have unless you are measuring with a good instrument.
There are more that takes notes and watch for trends so that when remaking a recipe, they can adjust from last known measured point, thereby iteratively approach the desired target.
Most only do so with calibrated, accurate, drift-checked, stable pH meters.
You really don't know what you have unless you are measuring with a good instrument.
