anyone here own a "real" brewing machine?

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So would this and some yeast make me whiskey? Could I ferment it in an old dirty toilet. Would it be ready to drink later this evening?
Good luck foodgrade

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Weel thet rat ther splains ma fishensee prolem, I aint bin grandin ma grens teen tims
 
Watch the video, I was being a smart ass no offence, the video is funny as heck.
 
that makes sense.. They keep the videos blocked away here. I'll have to try to check it out later.
 
If I want to brew some alcohol free beer, do I simply not use yeast? What will this become then? Will it taste like crap?
 
(against my better judgement....)

It will be sweet. A drink called "malta" is basically an unfermented beer.

What part of the world are you in, and what are you hoping to accomplish?
 
If I want to brew some alcohol free beer, do I simply not use yeast? What will this become then? Will it taste like crap?

You've got it a little mixed up.

First we make wort by extracting sugar from grain. I used to do this painstakingly by extracting the sugar from the barley one grain at a time with tweezers, but then I learned about mashing and my brew days have been a breeze since then. Pro-tip: use a potato masher with thin slots: the ones with holes in them will let too many whole grains get through and that's where you get poor efficiency.

When we boil the wort, we add hops to ferment it. Fermentation is best explained as "the process that turns wort into beer." It's more of a semantic thing than a scientific process, but some people think this makes the beer taste better and so we all do it just in case.

After chilling, we add yeast to the wort (it's not beer yet because the hops take some time to ferment). The yeast reproduces in the wort to add that yeasty flavor that all good beers have. (The reason most craft beer folks are so down on big commercial beers like Budweiser is that they skip this step, which is why you've probably noticed that there isn't much yeast flavor in their beers - they use a yeast extract, but it's not the same thing.) Yeast is also very bubbly, so that's where we get the bubbles from.

When the beer's bubbly and yeasty, usually 2-4 days after brewday, we add the alcohol depending on style. If we're making a lager (that's the German word for "yellow beer"), we add less alcohol; if it's an ale (which comes from the Scandinavian for "beer" and is usually orange to brown in color), we add a bit more alcohol, and stouts of course are really strong (that's what stout means, after all), so we add the most alcohol to them.

Finally, we put the finished beer in bottles or kegs, refrigerate, and serve.

So, in answer to your question, for alcohol-free beer, just skip the alcohol addition and you're in the clear.
 
You've got it a little mixed up.

First we make wort by extracting sugar from grain. I used to do this painstakingly by extracting the sugar from the barley one grain at a time with tweezers, but then I learned about mashing and my brew days have been a breeze since then. Pro-tip: use a potato masher with thin slots: the ones with holes in them will let too many whole grains get through and that's where you get poor efficiency.

When we boil the wort, we add hops to ferment it. Fermentation is best explained as "the process that turns wort into beer." It's more of a semantic thing than a scientific process, but some people think this makes the beer taste better and so we all do it just in case.

After chilling, we add yeast to the wort (it's not beer yet because the hops take some time to ferment). The yeast reproduces in the wort to add that yeasty flavor that all good beers have. (The reason most craft beer folks are so down on big commercial beers like Budweiser is that they skip this step, which is why you've probably noticed that there isn't much yeast flavor in their beers - they use a yeast extract, but it's not the same thing.) Yeast is also very bubbly, so that's where we get the bubbles from.

When the beer's bubbly and yeasty, usually 2-4 days after brewday, we add the alcohol depending on style. If we're making a lager (that's the German word for "yellow beer"), we add less alcohol; if it's an ale (which comes from the Scandinavian for "beer" and is usually orange to brown in color), we add a bit more alcohol, and stouts of course are really strong (that's what stout means, after all), so we add the most alcohol to them.

Finally, we put the finished beer in bottles or kegs, refrigerate, and serve.

So, in answer to your question, for alcohol-free beer, just skip the alcohol addition and you're in the clear.

sorry food grade dragon got it a bit messed uo.
Lager is german for storage, so all beer is lager until you open it then it becomes a Ale.
 
like those malt drinks I see called Malta India?

I was wondering if there is a general rule to follow when making beer as far as how much ingredients to use per gallon of water? Let's start with 1 gallon. How much ingredients would you put in a gallon of water? Quarter of a pound is fine?
 
You've got it a little mixed up.



First we make wort by extracting sugar from grain. I used to do this painstakingly by extracting the sugar from the barley one grain at a time with tweezers, but then I learned about mashing and my brew days have been a breeze since then. Pro-tip: use a potato masher with thin slots: the ones with holes in them will let too many whole grains get through and that's where you get poor efficiency.



When we boil the wort, we add hops to ferment it. Fermentation is best explained as "the process that turns wort into beer." It's more of a semantic thing than a scientific process, but some people think this makes the beer taste better and so we all do it just in case.



After chilling, we add yeast to the wort (it's not beer yet because the hops take some time to ferment). The yeast reproduces in the wort to add that yeasty flavor that all good beers have. (The reason most craft beer folks are so down on big commercial beers like Budweiser is that they skip this step, which is why you've probably noticed that there isn't much yeast flavor in their beers - they use a yeast extract, but it's not the same thing.) Yeast is also very bubbly, so that's where we get the bubbles from.



When the beer's bubbly and yeasty, usually 2-4 days after brewday, we add the alcohol depending on style. If we're making a lager (that's the German word for "yellow beer"), we add less alcohol; if it's an ale (which comes from the Scandinavian for "beer" and is usually orange to brown in color), we add a bit more alcohol, and stouts of course are really strong (that's what stout means, after all), so we add the most alcohol to them.



Finally, we put the finished beer in bottles or kegs, refrigerate, and serve.



So, in answer to your question, for alcohol-free beer, just skip the alcohol addition and you're in the clear.


Doh! I've been going about this all wrong!

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1429558153.878719.jpg

So, this one is no good?!?
 
Dont forget if you prefer german wiese"wheat beer" spread yeast on whole wheat bread and place in bucket of water for two weeks, any longer and itll become pilsner
 
like those malt drinks I see called Malta India?

I was wondering if there is a general rule to follow when making beer as far as how much ingredients to use per gallon of water? Let's start with 1 gallon. How much ingredients would you put in a gallon of water? Quarter of a pound is fine?

Yeah, quarter of a pound per gallon is a good starting point, unless you're in a place that uses metric where you should convert it to a quarter of a kilogram per liter of water. From there, it's mainly a question of what you want your beer to taste like. A brown ale, for example, is a malty beer, so you'd be looking at three ounces of malt, half an ounce each of hops and yeast. An IPA is really hoppy, so you'd go with three ounces of hops, half each of malt and yeast. Same breakdown for a yeasty Belgian or Hefeweizen, but three ounces of yeast, half each hops and malt.

I also forgot to mention that you don't just add yeast to the wort, you have to "pitch" it, preferably from ten or more feet away. That's why a lot of new brewers are advised to keep extra yeast on hand: if they miss the first time, they can try again, though if you've played much baseball or softball it comes pretty naturally so I would't worry about it. Pitching is also why people like liquid yeast over dry yeast: the liquid yeast has the added mass of the water content, and the packaging is more robust, so it's easier to pitch into the wort. Dry yeast comes in these flimsy packets that don't do well with air resistance so you have to throw it more like a frisbee and hope one of its twists and gyrations drops it into the fermenter.
 
Yeah, quarter of a pound per gallon is a good starting point, unless you're in a place that uses metric where you should convert it to a quarter of a kilogram per liter of water. From there, it's mainly a question of what you want your beer to taste like. A brown ale, for example, is a malty beer, so you'd be looking at three ounces of malt, half an ounce each of hops and yeast. An IPA is really hoppy, so you'd go with three ounces of hops, half each of malt and yeast. Same breakdown for a yeasty Belgian or Hefeweizen, but three ounces of yeast, half each hops and malt.

I also forgot to mention that you don't just add yeast to the wort, you have to "pitch" it, preferably from ten or more feet away. That's why a lot of new brewers are advised to keep extra yeast on hand: if they miss the first time, they can try again, though if you've played much baseball or softball it comes pretty naturally so I would't worry about it. Pitching is also why people like liquid yeast over dry yeast: the liquid yeast has the added mass of the water content, and the packaging is more robust, so it's easier to pitch into the wort. Dry yeast comes in these flimsy packets that don't do well with air resistance so you have to throw it more like a frisbee and hope one of its twists and gyrations drops it into the fermenter.

Pitching from 10 feet is a rather advanced technique. I would advise a beginner to start at 3 and work his way up.
 
Pitching from 10 feet is a rather advanced technique. I would advise a beginner to start at 3 and work his way up.

What are you, some kind of extract brewer?!? Sure, he could pitch from three feet away. He could also ferment in a toilet or make a gluten-free beer or, god forbid, WINE, but I was assuming he wanted to make good beer from day one, so I suggested he start pitching from ten feet and work up from there. Sheesh!

Freakin' amateur hour in here.
 
And if you like Belgian beers, there is a very special style that involves the fermentation of lamb meat to add it's unique taste. The Belgians, not being too linguistically creative when it comes to beer, simply call it "Lambic" (Belgian for "lamb beer"). It's not just for Easter, either - they drink it year round. Sometimes they even add things like cherry to really flavor up the lamb meat. It's usually sold in tiny little bottles and drinking them involve raising your pinky finger up into the air when you lift the bottle. If you're into pinky lifting, you should certainly love cherry lambic!
 
like those malt drinks I see called Malta India?

I was wondering if there is a general rule to follow when making beer as far as how much ingredients to use per gallon of water? Let's start with 1 gallon. How much ingredients would you put in a gallon of water? Quarter of a pound is fine?

I would use 1.5 pounds of LME or 1.2 pounds of DME. 0.5 ounce hops for 60 minutes, 0.25 at 10 minutes, and 0.25 at 1 minute. Four grams of dry yeast should finish it off.
edit
Eat the quarter pounder.
 
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And if you like Belgian beers, there is a very special style that involves the fermentation of lamb meat to add it's unique taste. The Belgians, not being too linguistically creative when it comes to beer, simply call it "Lambic" (Belgian for "lamb beer"). It's not just for Easter, either - they drink it year round. Sometimes they even add things like cherry to really flavor up the lamb meat. It's usually sold in tiny little bottles and drinking them involve raising your pinky finger up into the air when you lift the bottle. If you're into pinky lifting, you should certainly love cherry lambic!

I've always heard lambics took almost a year to brew, now I know why. The first several months are the gestation period and fattening up of the lamb. I guess you could shorten it considerably by buying the meat at a grocery or butcher shop, but we brewers are a real DIY crowd.

Highlight the following white text at your own risk, or better yet, don't. If you're on the app and the white tags don't work properly, I apologize in advance.

Now I know what you're thinking here, but we're not that DIY - it wouldn't work with the genetic differences and all, though you're welcome to try if your municipality doesn't have laws against it and you can track down a willing ewe - but we do the best we can with the circumstances.
 
Holy ****.. So THAT's what Lambic is? I'm irish.. I can totally get behind some Lamb beer. Is there a certain cut of the lamb I need to use? Or is it just whatever i can cut while I'm running through some poor herder's field?
 
Holy ****.. So THAT's what Lambic is? I'm irish.. I can totally get behind some Lamb beer. Is there a certain cut of the lamb I need to use? Or is it just whatever i can cut while I'm running through some poor herder's field?

Some might say that it only truly counts as lambic if it is spontaneous, ie, the lamb has to come to you.

Adjust accordingly if using a "real" brewing machine.
 
One thing I don't think I've seen covered is how we control the color of the beer.

This all depends on the type of alcohol you add at the end. Beer naturally has a yellow hue, so if you want a Pilsner use something clear like Vodka. For copper colored beers add a little whiskey or spiced rum. You can use a little Jaegermeister for reds or a lot of Jag for browns.

Dark beers are a little tricky. We use coffee that's been mixed with everclear on account of it diluting the alcohol. This is also what gives porters and stouts that roasted coffee flavor.
 
One thing I don't think I've seen covered is how we control the color of the beer.

This all depends on the type of alcohol you add at the end. Beer naturally has a yellow hue, so if you want a Pilsner use something clear like Vodka. For copper colored beers add a little whiskey or spiced rum. You can use a little Jaegermeister for reds or a lot of Jag for browns.

Dark beers are a little tricky. We use coffee that's been mixed with everclear on account of it diluting the alcohol. This is also what gives porters and stouts that roasted coffee flavor.
And for Bud lite Piss in bucket and add yeast
 
And for Bud lite Piss in bucket and add yeast

OH we all know it isn't that easy. If it were everyone would make Bud Light. It a delicate and difficult process (haven't you seen their commercial showing how hard it its to make?)

First the day is started by eating a large amouint of light grain and rice for breakfast. Then drinking several gallons of yellow dye number 5 beverages ( like mountain dew or my prefered gatorade yellow) The mass amount of liquid helps flush out the enzymes your body is extracting from the rice/grain mix breakfast. This is going to be uncomfortable due to all the large volumes you consume, but hey.. no one said it would be easy.

Make sure to collect the pee in a clean bucket. This wort is sterile, so you don't have to worry as much about that.. but still start off with a clean container. You'll want to lay a finely woven layer of Birch acorss the top of the bucket as you urinate out the wort. This helps give it the signature Bud Light taste.

Finally. AHB has spen a very very long time developing their perfect strain of yeast, and that is very important. Since you are cloning this beer, it would be best to use a yeast directly from the source. (It's not cheating I promise, people do it all the time with other beers too) Grab 2 cans of Budlight out of your fridge (make sure the "best by" date is still good) and dump those into your wort. This introduces the right strain of healthy yeast.

Leave for 10 days exactly. Bottle and drink. It tastes just like the real stuff.
 
OH we all know it isn't that easy. If it were everyone would make Bud Light. It a delicate and difficult process (haven't you seen their commercial showing how hard it its to make?)

First the day is started by eating a large amouint of light grain and rice for breakfast. Then drinking several gallons of yellow dye number 5 beverages ( like mountain dew or my prefered gatorade yellow) The mass amount of liquid helps flush out the enzymes your body is extracting from the rice/grain mix breakfast. This is going to be uncomfortable due to all the large volumes you consume, but hey.. no one said it would be easy.

Make sure to collect the pee in a clean bucket. This wort is sterile, so you don't have to worry as much about that.. but still start off with a clean container. You'll want to lay a finely woven layer of Birch acorss the top of the bucket as you urinate out the wort. This helps give it the signature Bud Light taste.

Finally. AHB has spen a very very long time developing their perfect strain of yeast, and that is very important. Since you are cloning this beer, it would be best to use a yeast directly from the source. (It's not cheating I promise, people do it all the time with other beers too) Grab 2 cans of Budlight out of your fridge (make sure the "best by" date is still good) and dump those into your wort. This introduces the right strain of healthy yeast.

Leave for 10 days exactly. Bottle and drink. It tastes just like the real stuff.

Now I really want a Busch Light when I get home.
 
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