Any idea where this dipa recipe went wrong

[bigdaddybrew]

I always notice little bubbles when I fill the bottle but I figure that's normal when using the bottle filler, maybe it's not.

When using my spring loaded bottle filler I don't notice bubbles.
If your bottle filler or bottling spigot are drawing in air this would oxidize your beer. Maybe you have a poorly fitting tubing on your bottle filler or racking cane that is drawing in air?

I know many homebrewers dismiss the affects of hot side aeration but I think it can have a negative effect on flavor especially after beers are weeks or months old. It is a major concern for commercial brewers with shelf life considerations. Are you splashing hot wort while mashing or sparging or doing any overly aggressive stirring when cooling?

 

[bigdaddybrew]

I think if you keep your process, recipe and yeast the same then raise your mash temp to 152f that should do the trick. I'd worry if you change another part your process you might throw it off in one direction or another.

I like a 60 minute mash, 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain. I usually drain my first running and then do two additional batch sparges of equal amounts. I don't usually do a mash out but I mostly brew lower gravity beers with a dry finish so any additional conversion that occurs doesn't matter. The key for me is trying to use the same process so a change in mash temp will have a predictable result.

 

[olotti]

When using my spring loaded bottle filler I don't notice bubbles.
If your bottle filler or bottling spigot are drawing in air this would oxidize your beer. Maybe you have a poorly fitting tubing on your bottle filler or racking cane that is drawing in air?

I know many homebrewers dismiss the affects of hot side aeration but I think it can have a negative effect on flavor especially after beers are weeks or months old. It is a major concern for commercial brewers with shelf life considerations. Are you splashing hot wort while mashing or sparging or doing any overly aggressive stirring when cooling?

I'll go and check my connection to my bottle filler that could be the only bad connection I have but its just a piece of tube that fits over the bottle filler that connects it to the spigot. I get zero bubbles during racking to the bucket.

As for hot side aeration I have a tube that goes from my spigot on mlt so when I drain it just whirlpools to the kettle. After collecting my usual 7.5 gal I do stir lightly to mix up the wort then take my refractometer reading to find my PBG otherwise I just pick up the kettle and move it to the burner and start boiling.

 

[olotti]

I think if you keep your process, recipe and yeast the same then raise your mash temp to 152f that should do the trick. I'd worry if you change another part your process you might throw it off in one direction or another.

I like a 60 minute mash, 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain. I usually drain my first running and then do two additional batch sparges of equal amounts. I don't usually do a mash out but I mostly brew lower gravity beers with a dry finish so any additional conversion that occurs doesn't matter. The key for me is trying to use the same process so a change in mash temp will have a predictable result.

Ok thanks for he thoughts on all your replies. I'll have to keep my process the same for higher gravity beers ie 1.25qt/lb-1.33qt/lb mash water and dble sparge because my mlt can't hold a large grain bill with a thinner 1.60qt/lb mash and a single sparge as I'll never hit my volume, I lose 2 gal from my initial mash due to the dead space under the false bottom. I use beersmith and I reduce my efficiency for high gravity beers and also increase my boil volume to 8.5 gal with a 90 min boil. I would like to replicate the process, adjust the hop bill, use the same yeast and then add cbc-1 at bottling and see if that doesn't do the trick.

 

[olotti]

When using my spring loaded bottle filler I don't notice bubbles.
If your bottle filler or bottling spigot are drawing in air this would oxidize your beer. Maybe you have a poorly fitting tubing on your bottle filler or racking cane that is drawing in air?

I know many homebrewers dismiss the affects of hot side aeration but I think it can have a negative effect on flavor especially after beers are weeks or months old. It is a major concern for commercial brewers with shelf life considerations. Are you splashing hot wort while mashing or sparging or doing any overly aggressive stirring when cooling?

In regards to the tubing both racking and bottle filler connection do you think if I threw some tight fitting say electrical tape around the connections that would help. Just spit balling ideas here.

 

[bigdaddybrew]

It might. I use a stainless clamp on my racking cane/tubing connection just to be sure. As for the tubing connection between my spigot and my bottling wand I make sure is long enough to fit all the way over the spigot end and at least an inch onto the wand. There might be a bit of air as it begins to flow but should eventually be all beer no bubbles from the spigot/tubing and wand. If it seems to have a flow of bubbles it's probably sucking air. Overall your process sounds good.