ANVIL FOUNDRY ALL-GRAIN BREWING SYSTEM

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renstyle

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The hull wrecker looks exactly like my cereal killer just rebranded and not blue lol. same adjustments, base, size etc. Its a solid mill and well priced.
my cereal killer came with blue protective plastic on all of the hopper sheets. I didn't keep it on the mill thinking it wouldn't be as "slick" for the grain & dust roll off.

utility knives are your friend in this instance. :)

and yeah, they look pretty much identical! I'm pleased with mine.
 

tracer bullet

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Probably the same person that sued McDonald's for being burned by hot coffee.
I get what you're saying but that one actually made some sense. Some old lady burned the absolute crap out of herself with like boiling hot coffee, way over where it reasonably should have been, from a place that had been warned a few times. She was in the hospital for a while, and didn't try to get much out of them. They said no, so it went to court. It was the jury that amped it way up and gave her a ton of money, to basically punish McDonalds.

Anyhow, this is of course total user error by someone that didn't know better. Should have known better, but didn't. can't place blame on Anvil for this one. That said, I can admit I've done stupid crap in my lifetime as well and gotten lucky. I have at least a little sympathy. Unless they are trying to sue in which case that sympathy goes out the window.
 

bwible

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Anybody found a reasonable solution to that stupid gasket that constantly falls out of the lid? I was wondering if I could use one of the denture adhesives to hold that in? Wouldn’t that have to be food safe? Just a thought?
 
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NSMikeD

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Anybody found a reasonable solution to that stupid gasket that constantly falls out of the lid? I was wondering if I could use one of the denture adhesives to hold that in? Wouldn’t that have to be food safe? Just a thought?
I just pay attention to make sure I line the malt pipe up and I stopped catching the gasket with the legs. I have the 6.5 brewing 2.5 gal batches so granted I realize I’m not hoisting as much grain as larger batch brewers so it’s easier for me to lift the malt pipe straight up.
 

bwible

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I just pay attention to make sure I line the malt pipe up and I stopped catching the gasket with the legs. I have the 6.5 brewing 2.5 gal batches so granted I realize I’m not hoisting as much grain as larger batch brewers so it’s easier for me to lift the malt pipe straight up.
You’re talking about the metal support ring you rest the basket on when you lift it out. I’m talking about the white silicone gasket inside the lid. When I first got it, it only fell out occasionally. Now it won’t stay in. I line it up and press it in and it falls out again as soon as I pick the lid up. I gave up and just left it out when I brewed the last couple batches.
 

NSMikeD

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You’re talking about the metal support ring you rest the basket on when you lift it out. I’m talking about the white silicone gasket inside the lid. When I first got it, it only fell out occasionally. Now it won’t stay in. I line it up and press it in and it falls out again as soon as I pick the lid up. I gave up and just left it out when I brewed the last couple batches.
Duh. Yup. I read that wrong. Contact anvil. I’d get a new gasket. It’s supposed to stay snug. Or, but this may not be the case, you may not be fitting it in correctly. I’ve experiences that with gaskets for other devices.
 

Nate R

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You’re talking about the metal support ring you rest the basket on when you lift it out. I’m talking about the white silicone gasket inside the lid. When I first got it, it only fell out occasionally. Now it won’t stay in. I line it up and press it in and it falls out again as soon as I pick the lid up. I gave up and just left it out when I brewed the last couple batches.
This may not apply...
But on my spike cf5 the lid gasket is a PITA.
I put the gasket in the freezer for 10 minutes before i put it in the lid.
This makes it shrink just ever so tightly... then it stays in place.
Sorry if this does not apply, as i am still just an Anvil lurker as my unit has not yet shipped...
 

Knightshade

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Anybody found a reasonable solution to that stupid gasket that constantly falls out of the lid? I was wondering if I could use one of the denture adhesives to hold that in? Wouldn’t that have to be food safe? Just a thought?
I don’t even know where that gasket is in my kit. Think I took it off after first batch while cleaning and never bothered putting it back on. Didn’t see why I really needed it and one less thing to clean.
 

Tyler.W

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I spoke to anvil directly about the screen.. Not for use with the foundry.
In reference to the Anvil Kettle filter ^

Does anyone know why this is? I have the screen, and while it doesn’t fit perfectly it seems to work well enough. It clogs very easily on heavily hopped beers though.
 

szap

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From my experience and what I've read on Facebook groups, having a gasket that won't stay in the lid is the norm, not the exception. You could probably get it to stay using some silicone adhesive, but the consensus seems to be it is only needed if using the Anvil to distill. Just leaving it out works for me.
 

Bishop9.5

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No problem with gasket in 18 months of use.
10 batches in and mine has stayed in place as well. That said, if it comes out it's not going back in. As mentioned, for brewing beer it's really not necessary on this system.
 

millertime63

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Anybody found a reasonable solution to that stupid gasket that constantly falls out of the lid? I was wondering if I could use one of the denture adhesives to hold that in? Wouldn’t that have to be food safe? Just a thought?
I’ve had problems with that gasket since day one. I put a little silicone grease (keg lube) on the gasket and then batten it down on the foundry after it is clean and dry. It stays in a little better but not 100% of the time.
 

mbg

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You’re talking about the metal support ring you rest the basket on when you lift it out. I’m talking about the white silicone gasket inside the lid. When I first got it, it only fell out occasionally. Now it won’t stay in. I line it up and press it in and it falls out again as soon as I pick the lid up. I gave up and just left it out when I brewed the last couple batches.
I have seen Anvil recommend couple dabs of food safe silicone sealant/adhesive.
 

Knightshade

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So..2 batches in a row where the LHBS has mulled my grain, despite me asking them not to. (2 diff shops too)

I re-milled the first one to .028, sparged I think 3 gallons if I recall correctly which took for flipping ever and missed my numbers.

Latest batch had flaked oats already mixed into the milled grain...experience of missing my numbers anyways, I elected to Not re-mill, which I had planned on doing with a .030 gap this time based on conversations here. Used new pH meter, and I was aiming for 5.4, was at 5.35. Did a lift and dunk halfway during mash. Mashed out at 170 for 10. Sparged 1G. Squeezed the bajeeebers out of the damn bag

Should have been at 1.056 pre boil, was at 1.050 added .65lbs Golden DME. Post boil at 1.060, SG is supposed to be 1.066. Was worried that adding more golden light DME (all I had) was going to throw off malt bill (Idaho Pilsen) so I elected to just add table sugar (8oz) to get to 1.066. Recipe was based on 75%, clearly I didn’t hit those numbers.

Honestly...WTF
 

Bishop9.5

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So..2 batches in a row where the LHBS has mulled my grain, despite me asking them not to. (2 diff shops too)

I re-milled the first one to .028, sparged I think 3 gallons if I recall correctly which took for flipping ever and missed my numbers.

Latest batch had flaked oats already mixed into the milled grain...experience of missing my numbers anyways, I elected to Not re-mill, which I had planned on doing with a .030 gap this time based on conversations here. Used new pH meter, and I was aiming for 5.4, was at 5.35. Did a lift and dunk halfway during mash. Mashed out at 170 for 10. Sparged 1G. Squeezed the bajeeebers out of the damn bag

Should have been at 1.056 pre boil, was at 1.050 added .65lbs Golden DME. Post boil at 1.060, SG is supposed to be 1.066. Was worried that adding more golden light DME (all I had) was going to throw off malt bill (Idaho Pilsen) so I elected to just add table sugar (8oz) to get to 1.066. Recipe was based on 75%, clearly I didn’t hit those numbers.

Honestly...WTF
Now that I'm using my own mill again my numbers have all shot way up and been a lot more consistent the last 3 batches. I'm sure this was your entire issue with these last two. I've got a good relationship with my LHBS but if I showed up and the grains were not what I asked for I'd have them re-pull the order. And you never mix flaked adjuncts in with the grains, wtf!?

Did a brown ale this past Tuesday, 10lbs grain bill, crushed at 0.030, 1 gallon cool sparge, 86.4% mash efficiency.
Followed that with a new IPA recipe with about 10% rye, 12lbs bill, same crush and sparge, 79.8% mash efficiency.
 

Bishop9.5

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@Bishop9.5 please elaborate on this..


I have not heard a defintive answer on if one should mill flaked oats, flaked wheat, flakee corn or not.
Also, why not add the oats in with the milled grain? Is there a better way to do it?
Flaked adjuncts do not need to be milled, they have already been released from their husk and have sufficient surface area for sugar extractions.

As for leaving them separate, some brewers prefer to handle them slightly different than the primary grains. A protein rest being one example. A good shop will bag them separately.
 

bwible

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So..2 batches in a row where the LHBS has mulled my grain, despite me asking them not to. (2 diff shops too)

I re-milled the first one to .028, sparged I think 3 gallons if I recall correctly which took for flipping ever and missed my numbers.

Latest batch had flaked oats already mixed into the milled grain...experience of missing my numbers anyways, I elected to Not re-mill, which I had planned on doing with a .030 gap this time based on conversations here. Used new pH meter, and I was aiming for 5.4, was at 5.35. Did a lift and dunk halfway during mash. Mashed out at 170 for 10. Sparged 1G. Squeezed the bajeeebers out of the damn bag

Should have been at 1.056 pre boil, was at 1.050 added .65lbs Golden DME. Post boil at 1.060, SG is supposed to be 1.066. Was worried that adding more golden light DME (all I had) was going to throw off malt bill (Idaho Pilsen) so I elected to just add table sugar (8oz) to get to 1.066. Recipe was based on 75%, clearly I didn’t hit those numbers.

Honestly...WTF
Last time I needed a sack of pils malt I couldn’t get to my “local” homebrew shop - which is over an hour’s drive from me. I bought a sack of Best Malz pilsen from the local brewpub. Very nice guys, they were happy to sell me one. That sack was pre-crushed. I never bought a sack pre-crushed before. I’ve been using that for months with no issues. Efficiency or otherwise. I keep the sack rolled up inside another rolled up plastic trash bag inside a rubbermaid storage tote.
 

drewmuni8

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While I would never boil with the latches attached, I normally boil with the lid slightly on (probably 3/4) otherwise I never hit 0.5 gallon boil off with no lid. Anyone else have similar results?
 

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I do a steam slayer, and have a single latch on the opposite side flipped up and over (but not locked) to act as a back-up since the piping is a bit top heavy. But - I leave the hole where the recirculation pipe normally goes open. I feel like it's a safety of sorts, letting air in or out if needed (generally the slayer is pulling a vacuum.

It's a 6.5 on 240, I boil at 70% power and it's pretty turbulent in there. I lose about .6 gallons in an hour. Doesn't sound like much but since it's a 6.5 with only about 3.6 gallons in it to start with, it works well.

That probably didn't answer your question, most folks are using 10.5's and 120V.
 

Bishop9.5

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While I would never boil with the latches attached, I normally boil with the lid slightly on (probably 3/4) otherwise I never hit 0.5 gallon boil off with no lid. Anyone else have similar results?
Are you hitting 212F? If yes, who cares about your boil off rate? Just adjust accordingly in what ever software you're using and let her rip!
 

mcmeador

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Sorry if this has already been covered, but has an ideal crush been determined for use without a bag in the malt pipe? I see .030 mentioned several times, but that seems to be with a bag.

I am considering finally getting my own mill and have no prior experience milling my own grain. Thanks!
 

mbg

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Sorry if this has already been covered, but has an ideal crush been determined for use without a bag in the malt pipe? I see .030 mentioned several times, but that seems to be with a bag.

I am considering finally getting my own mill and have no prior experience milling my own grain. Thanks!
For many years 0.040" (credit card thickness) has been used by many. That is what I used on the AF until I bought a bag. I am at 0.032" for the past couple brews and my try 0.030" on the next brew. Especially since you have purchased a mill, I highly suggest you purchase a bag. There is "The Brew Bag" and ""Wilser Bag."
 

Silver_Is_Money

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All of my pre embedded chip credit cards micrometer measured to an average of about 0.030" thick, and all of my chipped credit cards average to about 0.032" thick.
 

Nate R

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It's here! It's here!
All parts appear to be in order.
I installed the two little 'catch brackets' on the malt pipe with the screws/bolts backwards... in other words the bolt and nut faces outward instead of inwards. I plan to use a bag and thoose seemed like a sharp shred point.

I am gonna do a test brew with PBW to test and clean the entire system... anyone have any advice or tips before my first brew?

I will do 120V first batch before i try my homemade 240V cord. I have the recirc pump kit so i will use that in the test to dial in flow rates and clean the hose etc.

Finally... i am SO glad i got a CUSS chiller... the included SS chiller doesn't even clear the top of the anvil! How in the heck does that even work with fittings?!?

Thanks for the tips all!
 

Bishop9.5

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It's here! It's here!
All parts appear to be in order.
I installed the two little 'catch brackets' on the malt pipe with the screws/bolts backwards... in other words the bolt and nut faces outward instead of inwards. I plan to use a bag and thoose seemed like a sharp shred point.

I am gonna do a test brew with PBW to test and clean the entire system... anyone have any advice or tips before my first brew?

I will do 120V first batch before i try my homemade 240V cord. I have the recirc pump kit so i will use that in the test to dial in flow rates and clean the hose etc.

Finally... i am SO glad i got a CUSS chiller... the included SS chiller doesn't even clear the top of the anvil! How in the heck does that even work with fittings?!?

Thanks for the tips all!
You're headed in the right direction. Good call on the screws, did the same thing. Verify your boil off and losses when you do the test run.

As for the chiller, what size Foundry did you get? I've got the 10.5 and the only issue I have with the chiller is that the top 2 coils sit above the wort line post boil.

You're pretty active in this thread so I have every confidence you'll nail your first batch!
 

Nate R

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As for the chiller, what size Foundry did you get? I've got the 10.5 and the only issue I have with the chiller is that the top 2 coils sit above the wort line post boil.
I got the 10.5.
Here is a crappy picture that may or may not show it...
Top of coil (where the hose gets attached) is a good 6" or so under the top of the kettle.
Pointless since i got the tri-coil chiller anyways. But maybe helpful for others if they are considering all-in costs.

For me, this coil may become a pre-stage chiller depending on how low my wort gets (probably use it when the wort gets to 90 or so? Not sure yet.)
or maybe a cheap home made jockey box. We will see.
Gotta get my brewing going again regardless!


20210501_114234.jpg
 

Bishop9.5

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I got the 10.5.
Here is a crappy picture that may or may not show it...
Top of coil (where the hose gets attached) is a good 6" or so under the top of the kettle.
Pointless since i got the tri-coil chiller anyways. But maybe helpful for others if they are considering all-in costs.

For me, this coil may become a pre-stage chiller depending on how low my wort gets (probably use it when the wort gets to 90 or so? Not sure yet.)
or maybe a cheap home made jockey box. We will see.
Gotta get my brewing going again regardless!


View attachment 727722
Yeah, that looks like mine. I just hang it off the edge of the kettle which is why the top two coils aren't submerged. Could be designed a little better but it's still pretty effective, especially when coupled with a whirlpool arm.
 

Nate R

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Yeah, that looks like mine. I just hang it off the edge of the kettle which is why the top two coils aren't submerged. Could be designed a little better but it's still pretty effective, especially when coupled with a whirlpool arm.
I think the hot water rises, so coils at the top vs. the bottom is better i guess. I was just shocked at how the chiller compared to the rest of the kettle setup. Everything else feels solid and well built (for example- the double wall insulation. Malt pipe, etc.)
Chilling coil feels like an after thought. BUT... it is a good deal to get all of this stuff included for the price, so it makes sense.

Thanks all
 

mbg

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Brewed a German Alt today and was strange my pre-boil gravity got me all excited - 90.8% mash eff.. But, then my OG only changed by two points. Point above my target.

Why the high pre-boil? I double checked my measurement and used my 155F calibrated hydrometer? Need to mix wort more? I've been brewing for a long time and never had this happen.

Thanks
Mike
 

Bishop9.5

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Brewed a German Alt today and was strange my pre-boil gravity got me all excited - 90.8% mash eff.. But, then my OG only changed by two points. Point above my target.

Why the high pre-boil? I double checked my measurement and used my 155F calibrated hydrometer? Need to mix wort more? I've been brewing for a long time and never had this happen.

Thanks
Mike
If your pre and post boil volumes were spot on then I'd say it was just a bad reading. I usually take 2-3 readings after the mash with a really good stir each time scooping up from the bottom.
 

Bishop9.5

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I was at my LHBS today here in Greenville, SC and he just got an Anvil Foundry 10.5 with recirculation kit in that's not spoken for yet. I know there have been more than a few posts of people looking for them so if you're interested call Ken at Grape and Grains, 864-236-5676, tell him you saw it posted here.
 

Bishop9.5

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So I did my flagship DIPA today for the 2nd time on the AF. My best technical batch of this beer by far so I'm excited to see the final results. I've got the efficiency dialed now, pretty consistent between 75-85% depending the size of the grain bill. I did have my first issue with "stuck" recirculation today, it never flowed over the grain pipe but got pretty close a few times. Think I'm going to make a half pound of rice hulls mandatory on anything with sticky adjuncts or a grain bill over 13.5lbs moving forward.
 
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