So we bought a new (to us) house and behind the wall behind the bar was a carbon dioxide tank, pictured below. What steps do I need to go through to make sure it still works, and if so will it work with modern keg systems?
Antique carbon dioxide tank?
- Thread starter Kent88
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jrgtr42
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PLease tell me that's just stained lines and not beer from Dog only knows when still in there.
As far as the tank goes, likely no place will fill it at this point. It'll need to be recertified.
Some places will swap it out for a fresh filled tank, they may or may not take this one.
Other than that, presuming it's certified, it'll work with current systems possibly with a swap in hardware. Personally I wouldn't think about using those lines - new hoses are a must.
As far as the tank goes, likely no place will fill it at this point. It'll need to be recertified.
Some places will swap it out for a fresh filled tank, they may or may not take this one.
Other than that, presuming it's certified, it'll work with current systems possibly with a swap in hardware. Personally I wouldn't think about using those lines - new hoses are a must.
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That kind of makes it sound like this is a dud and I should just dispose of it.
I'm not attached to it. If it isn't worth it I won't have a big problem throwing it away.
What kind of place can I go to in order to see if it can be recertified, though?
I'm not attached to it. If it isn't worth it I won't have a big problem throwing it away.
What kind of place can I go to in order to see if it can be recertified, though?
Most gas refill stations will either test themselves or send the tank out to be recertified. If you can get it refilled you'll definitely need a new regulator, the membranes in the original regulator are surely all shot to hell.
Shouldn't be much hassle at all. Anywhere that does co2 should swap it for you, but costs will probably vary dramatically. For example, the airgas near where I used to live would almost certainly say that it's worthless. Meanwhile, the place that i usually went would probably charge me the same as any other tank swap and recertify it on their own.
Pictures make it look like a small tank, like a 2.5lb. If that's the case, you probably don't want to use it for force carb and dispensing at home, but it would be nice for portable dispensing. (IIRC, I paid something like $15 for a 5# swap and $20 for 20# swap, larger tanks are MUCH more cost effective in the long run.)
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![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
Judging by that size, I'd say its capacity is around 10 pounds.
Its actual capacity, tare weight, last date inspected, and a few other things are stamped into the shoulder area.
These tanks need to be recertified every 5 years before they can be refilled. Some places will swap em out as is, others will charge you for recertification, typically around $30, but will swap it out for a newer tank. So call around on swap/fill charges and what they do with out of date tanks (this one looks like it is way out of date due to corrosion on the various parts).
Most swaps are like for like, steel for steel, aluminum for aluminum, size for same. Some let you pay a difference if you 'upgrade' to aluminum with a steel trade-in. Some won't take old rusty users or 'ancient' tanks.
Agreed with the inside of the regulator likely being toast.
But the blue gas hose look incredibly clean compared to everything else, almost as if it was used fairly recently.
That Sanke coupler is probably fine, just clean it up a bit, remove the pitting.
Q: Does it have holes in the brass connector tube between tank and regulator? It looks like it has...
Lots of good advice was given already.
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Is this what you wanted a better look at?
pdq_wizzard
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It's worth taking it into a place that does exchanges and seeing what they say. It should cost 25 to 30 dollars for the exchange.
Alright, no hole, it looks like just a flat area in the brass tube, for an open-end wrench.
I still doubt that regulator should be used though...
The label says the regulator is a Tap-Rite. Maybe contact them?
You can buy a new, modern, double body Tap-Rite regulator for under $100, complete with check valves.
I think that’s a 7# steel tank. See this link https://beveragelements.com/beverag...ylinders/7-lb-co2-cylinder-steel-recertified/
for a description and dimensions. The writing with the sharpie marker is the MT weight (23#) and the Full weight (~30.5#)
william_shakes_beer
Well-Known Member
I did not " buy" a tank. I paid a $50 " Deposit " on an exchange tank. That means technically the tank belongs to the distributor and therefore the recertification is their responsibility. It works the same way for recertification of steel propane tanks. I thought the recert was every 10 years, but what do I know, I'm just some random guy on the internet. When I spoke to my co2 guy, I asked about recertification and tank life. He said there were tanks in the system that were 50 or 60 years old. It's usually easier to find an exchange facility than find someone that will refill MY tank. That's because they need to have a technician on site that is familiar with the refill process. An exchange program they can stock full tanks and exchange them all day. That is the reason I recommend new keggers NOT buy a shiny new aluminum tank. The refiller is just going to take it away from you and give you a crusty old steel tank in exchange.
Is that a 20# CO2 tank? If so, that's pretty decent. And you're right, recertification is on their dime now.
I had a used, out of date 20# CO2 tank.
I swapped it at my semi-local Praxair (Curtis Bay, MD location, they don't fill there) for $30, that was the best deal I could get, and the CO2 is labeled as 'beverage grade' for whatever that's worth.
So technically, I don't own that tank, but it's sure handy to just swap it out. There must be some residual value to it if I ever want to change my ways.
[EDIT]
That is not the case apparently. See post #17 below, by @camonick. Thank you!
From what I gather recertification is 5 years for CO2, O2, Argon, etc. tanks.
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I got my shiny new tank back. Had to drop it off and return next week though
I hope that place is fairly local or on the way to 'somewhere useful' for you. 2 RTs for a routine CO2 fill just sucks.
Be prepared, 4-5 years from now you'll have to spend ~$30 on a hydro test.
We have 2 semi-local fire protection companies that will fill while you wait, if you time it right. They're also around $30 a 20# fill, same price as the swap I do.
I’m pretty sure there are co2 tanks certified and in use today that are over 100 years old now. I think there is a thread here comparing who had the oldest co2 tank.
Any swap should at least be like-like though. I.e. aluminum for aluminum unless there is some compensation for the switch. I had a 15lb (?) tank that was out of hydro that I swapped for a smaller, tested tank because the place didn’t keep that size tank on hand.
This is slightly off topic regarding CO2 tanks, but important info about propane tanks. Propane tanks are a different animal. I work for a company that is a propane distributor and just recently had the fun experience of sitting through my 3rd CTEP recertification class. Here’s the information on DOT/ICC propane tanks... There are 3 ways to requalify DOT/ICC tanks and none of them are 10 years. All portable propane tanks must be requalified 12 years after their manufacture date, and every 5, 7, or 12 years thereafter, depending on the method used for the last requalification.
The method used is indicated on the date stamped on each cylinder (may also be found on a sticker)
Hydrostatic test— A date without a letter indicates the cylinder was subjected to a complete water jacket hydrostatic test. The next requalification must be within 12 years.
Proof Pressure Test— A date followed by the letter “S” indicates a proof pressure test has been performed. The next requalification must be within 7 years.
External Visual Inspection (CGA Inspection Method)— A date followed by the letter “E” indicates a recorded external visual inspection was performed. The next requalification must be within 5 years.
The 5 year external visual is the most common after the initial test performed by the manufacturer.
It’s the only place in town. I looked for a used tank for a while so I could just trade it out. Ended up buying a shiny new one so I kinda wanna keep it. I’ve since scored 3 used 20s that the gas company just swaps out with me
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It was made in 1931 and was last tested and certified in 1988.
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