CBXBob
Well-Known Member
A couple of points, as others have mentioned, temperature control during fermentation is very important. I use a cheap 7 cubic ft. chest freezer with a temperature controller.
Water, I have good well water that I start the boil with, I then top off with mountain spring water. It's sanitized from the manufacturer, so needs no boiling, also both the well water and spring water have a good balance of minerals. I have glass, and plastic carboys, don't use them unless I'm making wine. 6 gallon plastic buckets are what work for me, keep them clean with non abrasive cloth and dish soap and water, then sanitize with starsan spray. I usually don't secondary unless it's a high gravity beer with lots of sediment, and that's just to make it easier to bottle/keg.
I'm an extract brewer, it just works for me. Now in my 3rd rear of home brewing, and about 30 brews. I've come to the conclusion that extract does not need to be boiled again, it's already been there, it just needs to be rehydrated with boiled and hopped water. I boil the specialty grains, hop additions, then add the LME at flame out, cool, top off, and pitch the yeast. I've had consistently good beer in all ABV ranges, no off flavors or "twang" issues since doing the flame out additions. If recipe calls for DME, I dissolve it in 160 degree water for 10 to 20 minutes, then add at flameout.
Everyone has their way of doing this home brew thing, the only cast in stone rules (IMO) are post boil sanitation, temperature control during fermentation, good water, and healthy, adequate amounts of yeast. The most fun part of this hobby so far for me, has been trying the many styles, and types of beer. And listening to all the advice, and tips offered here, and incorporating them into what works for me. It's a hobby, it's supposed to be fun
Water, I have good well water that I start the boil with, I then top off with mountain spring water. It's sanitized from the manufacturer, so needs no boiling, also both the well water and spring water have a good balance of minerals. I have glass, and plastic carboys, don't use them unless I'm making wine. 6 gallon plastic buckets are what work for me, keep them clean with non abrasive cloth and dish soap and water, then sanitize with starsan spray. I usually don't secondary unless it's a high gravity beer with lots of sediment, and that's just to make it easier to bottle/keg.
I'm an extract brewer, it just works for me. Now in my 3rd rear of home brewing, and about 30 brews. I've come to the conclusion that extract does not need to be boiled again, it's already been there, it just needs to be rehydrated with boiled and hopped water. I boil the specialty grains, hop additions, then add the LME at flame out, cool, top off, and pitch the yeast. I've had consistently good beer in all ABV ranges, no off flavors or "twang" issues since doing the flame out additions. If recipe calls for DME, I dissolve it in 160 degree water for 10 to 20 minutes, then add at flameout.
Everyone has their way of doing this home brew thing, the only cast in stone rules (IMO) are post boil sanitation, temperature control during fermentation, good water, and healthy, adequate amounts of yeast. The most fun part of this hobby so far for me, has been trying the many styles, and types of beer. And listening to all the advice, and tips offered here, and incorporating them into what works for me. It's a hobby, it's supposed to be fun
