Another DIPA recipie

[Tindel]

So here is my recipe for my DIPA. I'd appreciate some comments. Particularly on which yeast to use and method for pitching a vial of White Labs yeast. I don't have all the stuff I need to make a large starter... well, I guess I could make one in a 2L soda bottle. Maybe add some yeast nutrients? I could also make a lower gravity beer and use the slurry to start this beer off.

I imagine doing several of these beers back-to-back to try to nail the flavor that I want.

Also, this will be my first all-grain batch so any advise there would help too. I plan on doing a modified BIAB method where I will use strike water to sparge my bag of grains. I will also step mash.

I plan on doing a full boil, as I've heard that not doing a full boil with this much hops will inhibit utilization of said hops. Unfortunately I don't have the capability to do a full boil 5 gallon batch so a Mr Beer fermenter will be utilized.

DIPA
----
Brewer: Tindel
Style: Imperial IPA
Batch: 2.40 gal All Grain

Characteristics
---------------
Recipe Gravity: 1.077 OG
Recipe Bitterness: 102 IBU
Recipe Color: 13° SRM
Estimated FG: 1.019
Alcohol by Volume: 7.4%
Alcohol by Weight: 5.8%

Ingredients
-----------
CaraMunich 0.25 lb, Grain, Mashed
Crystal 20L 1.50 lb, Grain, Mashed
Two-row (US) 5.00 lb, Grain, Mashed

Cascade 1.00 oz, Pellet, 0 minutes
Cascade 1.00 oz, Pellet, 0 minutes
Cascade 1.00 oz, Pellet, 7 minutes
Cascade 1.00 oz, Pellet, 10 minutes
Cascade 1.00 oz, Pellet, 20 minutes
Cascade 1.00 oz, Pellet, 30 minutes
Cascade 1.00 oz, Pellet, 60 minutes

Generic 1.00 unit, Other, WLP001

Notes
-----
Recipe Notes:
1oz Cascade at flame out
1oz Cascade Dry Hop

Batch Notes:

I did get one comment on another forum that I might have too much cascade... lol. I've never brewed a DIPA before and I just don't want to mess it up...

 

[weirdboy]

I just don't think you're going to get a lot out of the 30 and 20 minute additions. If you want more bitterness, you're better off increasing the quantity you use at 60 minutes. If you are looking for more flavor or aroma, add more to the later additions.

Also, I notice you don't list any dry hops, which is something I typically do with any beer I brew in that category (APA, IPA, or IIPA). It's a personal choice but I really think it adds to the beer.

 

[boostsr20]

I agree, adjust those hop intervals and add dry hops. Personally I like to use a lb of wheat to help with head retention and lacing. Looks like a good simple ipa.

 

[jmick]

You are using way too much crystal malt - you are at 27% of total grain bill. Cut it down to .5lb of crystal 20 and maybe switch the caramucich to munich.

I agree on ditching the 30 minute addition. Keep one at 60, then everything else in the last 20 minutes of the boil. You list two 0 minute additions - is that accurate or is one for dry-hopping? I like a little more hop complexity, so I would add another variety. Maybe Amarillo, Centennial, or Simcoe.

Since you can't make a starter, why not use dry yeast? A packet of US-05 would be way better than underpitching a vial of liquid yeast.

 

[Tindel]

Thanks for the great responses! Here's a little more info and my recipe to date.

My favorite DIPA so far that I've had is 7-C's from Dry Dock brewing in Denver, and there's a few reasons I liked it the most... you get a lot of malt flavor (even through the bitterness) up front but it finishes sweet and hoppy and it has a nice red color. I did change the caramunich to munich, but I'm afraid I won't get the red color I'm looking for. I guess 1.020 is pretty sweet if that's really where I finish.

Some of this is an experiment for me to get to know different types of hops, and I plan to make the same beer, as far as the grain bill and yeast is concerned, using Amarillo (my favorite), Centennial, Simcoe, and maybe a couple more that I can use for the whole hop schedule. I would really like to try to nail down the grain bill on the first shot, so I can concentrate on the hops.

I think a vial of WLP001 should work. This isn't a really big IIPA like some that I've seen recipes for. I like to use liquid when I can, but I guess I don't really need the liquid yeast complexity for this ale. I could go either way on my yeast, I guess.

DIPA
----
Brewer: Tindel
Style: Imperial IPA
Batch: 2.40 gal - All Grain

Characteristics
---------------
Recipe Gravity: 1.080 OG
Recipe Bitterness: 99 IBU
Recipe Color: 11° SRM
Estimated FG: 1.020
Alcohol by Volume: 7.7%
Alcohol by Weight: 6.1%

Ingredients
-----------
Crystal 20L 0.50 lb, Grain, Mashed
Munich (US) 0.50 lb, Grain, Mashed
Two-row (US) 6.00 lb, Grain, Mashed

Cascade 1.00 oz, Pellet, dry minutes
Cascade 1.00 oz, Pellet, 0 minutes
Cascade 1.00 oz, Pellet, 7 minutes
Cascade 2.00 oz, Pellet, 10 minutes
Cascade 2.00 oz, Pellet, 60 minutes

Generic 1.00 unit, Other, WLP001

Notes
-----
Recipe Notes:
1oz at flame out
1oz Cascade Dry Hop

 

[KyleWolf]

The recipe looks solid. for just a 2.5gal batch, you probably only need a 500mL starter, and that is just to "wake up"the yeast.

I don't know if your original post was edited before i read this, but you do have 1 oz of dry hop down in the "recipe notes" right? along with flame out (or 0 min). Does that mean you are really doing 2oz at 0min and 2oz for dry hop? I don't have anything bad to say about that, but you are not going to get 2.4 gal of beer from that recipe.

Remember that hops absorb approx. 1.3 pints/oz. and you currently have 9oz (including the 2oz listed at the bottom) of hops. meaning 11.7 pints or 1.5gal. meaning you would end with just 1 gal of beer. When dealing with IPAs, you need to adjust your grain bill and batch size to accommodate for hop loss. If you want to FINISH with 2.4 gals you need:

10.00 lbs 2row
00.88 lbs crystal 20L
00.88 lbs munich

calculate for 4 gal post boil. you will end with 2.75 into the fermenter. with the loss from the 2oz of dry hop, that will bring you to a final volume of 2.4 gal (note: this is not accounting for loss from trub).

But at the same time this will involve changing the amount of hops you use...It is a really fine game to play lol. One option is to change your 60 min addition to something with a higher AA (I recommend ~1.25oz of columbus, but magnum and warrior would work too).

On a last note, I noticed you saying you wanted a nice red color, choosing a higher lovibond crystal (120L is my favorite) tend to give a deeper red color. Just my experience.

Also, I didn't see a mash temp, what are you looking to mash at? If you go around 152-153 you will get lower than 1.020 and should leave a good malt body behind.

Cheers!
Kyle

 

[boostsr20]

Thanks for the great responses! Here's a little more info and my recipe to date.

My favorite DIPA so far that I've had is 7-C's from Dry Dock brewing in Denver, and there's a few reasons I liked it the most... you get a lot of malt flavor (even through the bitterness) up front but it finishes sweet and hoppy and it has a nice red color. I did change the caramunich to munich, but I'm afraid I won't get the red color I'm looking for. I guess 1.020 is pretty sweet if that's really where I finish.

Some of this is an experiment for me to get to know different types of hops, and I plan to make the same beer, as far as the grain bill and yeast is concerned, using Amarillo (my favorite), Centennial, Simcoe, and maybe a couple more that I can use for the whole hop schedule. I would really like to try to nail down the grain bill on the first shot, so I can concentrate on the hops.

I think a vial of WLP001 should work. This isn't a really big IIPA like some that I've seen recipes for. I like to use liquid when I can, but I guess I don't really need the liquid yeast complexity for this ale. I could go either way on my yeast, I guess.

FWIW, my buddy and I split a 10 gallon batch on a Rye IPA and a Black IPA. We both used the same schedule for yeast and dry hopping. He used S-05 and I used WLP001 with a starter. After tasting all 4 beers side by side, there was no real noticeable difference other than mine was a tad drier. So if you are actually going for a Malty beer, then S-05 would be a better choice and you don't have to worry about underpitching. Really, 1 vial in a 1.075 is underpitching quite a bit and it will take some time to get going.

Also, another option to get it closer to a red would be to add 1oz (.06lb) of black patent or carafaIII. You won't get the flavor from it but it will make it red. You can also do what Kyle suggest but that will alter the flavor profile of the beer a lot.

 

[Tindel]

Great information! Thanks!

Another couple of things to point out about my recipie:
- Q-Brew doesn't differentiate between dry and flame-out hops. I'm only putting 1oz of hops in for dry hopping.
- I will be doing a step mash as outlined in Pappazian's book, TJOHB. I forget the temps, but he generally uses the same step mash all of the time.
- you've talked me into using S-05. I think I have a package of it in the fridge, anyway.
- I think I'm going to go back to the caramunich just to hopefully get some red color from that.

Thanks for all of your help with getting this going. I'm going to order the ingredients tonight!

 

[weirdboy]

You really, really don't need a step mash for that recipe. That whole process he uses is pretty outdated. It is complete overkill and just the complexity of the process alone is more likely to result in curse words and throwing things on brewday.

Nowadays most malts you are going to get for homebrewing are going to be fully modified, and you can just mash in at your target temp (naturally your strike water will be hotter than target). Which, it isn't written in your recipe but if you want it drier, keep it lower like 150-152, and if you want it maltier make it more like 156-158. The only exceptions you might make for step mashes are when you have large amounts of wheat in your grain bill and add a protein rest.