Another Control Panel wiring question

[hammis]

sorry, dont mean to sound snide, just trying to logically work this all out in my head and out loud, i really dont want to die or blow anything up when i start wiring stuff tomorrow

 

[SweetSounds]

i'm planning on using the dpdt as a "switch". Similar to a SSR, a DPDT needs some sort of signal to close the circuit. In the case of a SSR this is a 12VDC signal from the PID (or some other source). For a DPDT you have a coil which is rated to a certain voltage, when that voltage is applied to the coil, and electromagnetic reaction occurs which closes the circuit. The contactors to which the 2 hot wired are connected close and allow the current to pass through into the element.

My question has to do with the voltage i am applying to the coil. It will be supplied with a 120V hot wire, since my coil requires 120Vac to close. My question is, do i need a neutral wire on the other end of the coil going back to the terminal block?

Maybe - What is the make and model number of the device you are calling a "DPDT"?

It looks from the pic like a contactor or power relay, but I need more information.
How many posts - What are they labeled?

 

[ClaudiusB]

Stage #1: elements to be controlled manualy through the use of 2 allan bradley selector switches.

What contact blocks are you using for the E-Stop and 30 mm NEMA switches?
Standard A-B contact blocks are rated 10A continuous.



Cheers,
ClaudiusB

 

[hammis]

sweetsounds: I dont have the dpdt in front of me now (at work) and for the life of me i can't remember the info, i'll post it later when i get home.

ClaudiusB: As for the e-stop, i'm rethinking the way i have that set up, my electricians at work pointed out the same issue to me, so i'm not quite sure how i will change that up. any suggestions?

 

[hammis]

p.s. ClaudiusB, I just looked through all your brewery pictures and i must say, you are my hero!

 

[ClaudiusB]

ClaudiusB: As for the e-stop, i'm rethinking the way i have that set up, my electricians at work pointed out the same issue to me, so i'm not quite sure how i will change that up. any suggestions?

Your electrician could have recommended a master control relay controlled by the E-Stop to supply/cut power
Or a simple disconnect rated for your application.

50A disconnect, overkill for my gas fired setup

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

 

[hammis]

i was just perusing another control panel build and i came across this same picture you just posted. I think i might go that route instead of the estop (even though i got the estop free from work). It seems like a simple enough concept....2 hot lines into disconnect, when flipped to OFF whole system has zero power when flipped to ON whole system is energized, right?