American IPA

[Muchacho]

Hi-

I am planning on brewing up an American IPA this weekend and am looking for some input. I know that my efficiency is pretty poor, but this plan is inline with what I typically yield when adding alot of hops. I have never brewed with Apollo but understand that it is similar to CTZ.

Cheers!

Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Estimated OG: 1.068 SG
Estimated Color: 6.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 78.0 IBUs

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
15 lbs Brewers Malt 2-Row (Briess) (1.8 SRM) Grain 1 88.2 %
1 lbs Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 2 5.9 %
8.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 3 2.9 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 4 2.9 %
0.50 oz Warrior [15.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 27.8 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 6 5.3 IBUs
0.50 oz Apollo [17.00 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 7 10.6 IBUs
0.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 8 8.1 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 9 3.1 IBUs
0.50 oz Apollo [17.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 10 6.3 IBUs
0.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 11 4.8 IBUs
1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 5.0 mins) Fining 12 -
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 13 2.6 IBUs
0.50 oz Apollo [17.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 14 5.2 IBUs
0.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 15 4.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Aroma Steep 15. Hop 16 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Apollo [17.00 %] - Aroma Steep 15.0 min Hop 17 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Aroma Steep 15.0 min Hop 18 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Day Hop 20 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Apollo [17.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 21 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 22 0.0 IBUs

Total Grain Weight: 17 lbs
----------------------------
Mash In 152.0 F 60 min

American Ale II (Wyeast Labs #1272) with starter @ 65 deg

 

[Odin_Brews]

Holy hops! I'd drink it, looks good to me.

 

[Muchacho]

Thanks! I figured that by spreading them out in the last 20 minutes in small doses I would be able to keep the bitterness reasonable and get big hop flavor/aroma...

 

[Rambleon]

Looks delicious. I've never used Apollo but I know Jamil uses them quite a bit in some of his Heretic beers.

 

[dcp27]

I have never brewed with Apollo but understand that it is similar to CTZ.

aside from high AAs, I don't find apollo similar to CTZ at all. IME, CTZ is dank & resiny w/ some citrus, apollo is kinda orangy. recipe looks good in any case

 

[Muchacho]

Thanks- I was looking for some of that resin dankness from the CTZ. Maybe I will swap the amarillo for some CTZ then. Appreciate the insight!

 

[adrianouli]

Hi brew friends.
I'm quite new on this world and I've just finished (in beersmith) my American IPA recipe for next saturday... Can someone pls comment about it?
I want a very bitter beer, with light body, woodsy, slightly citric, and as clear as possible in SRM...

20 liters recipe:

6,5kg Pale Ale (2 Row) grain
0,5kg Caramunich grain
20gr Warrior 60m
20gr Warrior 40m
20gr Centennial 20m
20gr Simcoe 5m
10gr Columbus 0m
1pk California Ale WLP001

Est Original Gravity: 1.073 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.014 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7.8 %
Bitterness: 80.0 IBUs
Est Color: 11.2 SRM

Thanks my friends!!!

 

[adrianouli]

Hey guys...please help!!!
Tks!!!

 

[NorthwestBrewman2013]

Hi brew friends.
I'm quite new on this world and I've just finished (in beersmith) my American IPA recipe for next saturday... Can someone pls comment about it?
I want a very bitter beer, with light body, woodsy, slightly citric, and as clear as possible in SRM...

20 liters recipe:

6,5kg Pale Ale (2 Row) grain
0,5kg Caramunich grain
20gr Warrior 60m
20gr Warrior 40m
20gr Centennial 20m
20gr Simcoe 5m
10gr Columbus 0m
1pk California Ale WLP001

Est Original Gravity: 1.073 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.014 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7.8 %
Bitterness: 80.0 IBUs
Est Color: 11.2 SRM

Thanks my friends!!!

Just throwing this out there. You may be happier with Safale-US-05 Dry Yeast for this one. It allows the hops to shine through as it is a very clean finishing yeast. I used it on an IPA a while back and the finish was phenomenal.

Also, Mangrove Jack's M44 West Coast Ale Yeast is good. I just brewed a Red Ale with it and the directions say that it is closest to US-05.

For a little more body to your wort you may want to consider adding some Crystal. Maybe Crystal 10L? That is the lightest one available and will bring some depth to your brew.

 

[sweetcell]

adrianouli: i would reverse your 20 min and flameout amounts. you want more at flamout. also, i'd more the 20 min to 10 min, so you have 10/5/0. IPAs should be dry-hopped if you want a strong hop aroma, so you could consider adding that to your recipe. and if you want a very bitter beer, move the 40 min addition to 60. you'll get more isomerization. you're not going to get much flavor difference in 40 vs. 60, so you're better off putting them all in at the beginning.

northwestbrewman: caramunich is a crystal.

 

[adrianouli]

Thanks for helping, northwestbrewman/sweetcell!!

Regarding the Yeast, NICE! I just found US-05 in my supplier! I`ll follow your recommendation!!!
As mentioned by sweetcell, if we are not wrong, caraminich is a cristal, so it would be not a problem!

SO, I`m also adjusting the hop logics as well! Make sense your comments!!! I`m willing to try dry hop, but not sure yet, as I never did it.... I will search more about it next days, but I really want a very bitter beer this time!!!

Just one more doubt if you both can help... What would be the best temperature for fermentation (and how many days) and also the temperatura ramp for maturation (and how many days) on this case...

Many tks guys! =)

 

[dcp27]

S-05 is just the dry version of 001. it is cheaper and higher cell count so i do prefer it myself, but they're very similar

you definitely need the dry hop, no IPA should be without. 50g late hops is pretty low for an IPA

low to mid 60s for ferm and maturation. 2-4 weeks including the dry hop before packaging

 

[adrianouli]

So, decided!!! I will challenge myself for dry hop!!!
I thought about 60g for this...
60F is like 16C, if im not wrong...

Do you change fermenter to trow out the yeast after 5-7 days?

Tks man!!!!
Cheers...

 

[dcp27]

sry missed the C part, ya 16-20C wort temp should be good. the chico strain is very forgiving so if temps get away from you, shouldnt be a problem

no need for a secondary, its become an outdated technique, theres a buncha threads on the site about it if you want more info. on the homebrew scale theres no worries about leaving it in the primary for an extended period. dry hops can also be added directly to the primary, just wait til fermentation is complete and at least a few days later for yeast n such to settle out. 60g is the minimum i'd do for a dry hop. ideally you should be doing dry hop in the final days before bottling/kegging to maximize aroma, 3-10days

 

[sweetcell]

Just one more doubt if you both can help... What would be the best temperature for fermentation (and how many days) and also the temperatura ramp for maturation (and how many days) on this case...

do you have temp control? if so, i would do something like: 18, 18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20, then hold at 21 until fermentation is complete (as many days as needed to get 2 steady hydrometer reading). you can start increasing the temp as soon as fermentation starts to visibly die down, might not take 4 days - or might take longer. yeast don't use calendars

 

[NorthwestBrewman2013]

adrianouli: i would reverse your 20 min and flameout amounts. you want more at flamout. also, i'd more the 20 min to 10 min, so you have 10/5/0. IPAs should be dry-hopped if you want a strong hop aroma, so you could consider adding that to your recipe. and if you want a very bitter beer, move the 40 min addition to 60. you'll get more isomerization. you're not going to get much flavor difference in 40 vs. 60, so you're better off putting them all in at the beginning.

northwestbrewman: caramunich is a crystal.

I know. I just thought adding just a touch more of a crystal malt would give the beer even more depth. I'm not sure of the conversion from KG to LBS but I'm pretty sure that a little more in the batch wouldn't hurt.

+1 with the Dry Hopping. Also, Flameout additions are killer too. WAY more flavor and aroma when you do that.

 

[NorthwestBrewman2013]

So, decided!!! I will challenge myself for dry hop!!!
I thought about 60g for this...
60F is like 16C, if im not wrong...

Do you change fermenter to trow out the yeast after 5-7 days?

Tks man!!!!
Cheers...

I would leave the primary going until about 10-14 days to let the yeast clean things up. Transfer to a secondary vessel and dry hop for 7 days with that.

Dry hopping is super easy. One of two ways will work, depending on the fermenter you are using for secondary. If you use a bucket you can place the hops in a sanitized paint strainer bag and tie it off and drop it in the fermenter.

If you use a glass or plastic carboy just drop the hops through the neck and rack on top of the hops. I used this method and it worked perfectly.

Before you bottle you can do a quick "crash cool" to make sure all the hop sediment has fallen out. This is basically done by getting the beer down to a lower temperature (I put mine in my garage here in Central Oregon, temps stay about 45 degrees) for 24 hours. After that you can bottle and it will be clear as a bell!

 

[dcp27]

I know. I just thought adding just a touch more of a crystal malt would give the beer even more depth. I'm not sure of the conversion from KG to LBS but I'm pretty sure that a little more in the batch wouldn't hurt. .

0.5kg (1.1lbs) is already more crystal than i'd use in an IPA. I'd keep it to 5% of the grist or less. munich, victory, vienna, etc would be better suited malts to use for depth.

I would leave the primary going until about 10-14 days to let the yeast clean things up. Transfer to a secondary vessel and dry hop for 7 days with that.

no need to secondary just for a dry hop. its an unnecessary risk of contamination/oxidation. they work just as well in the primary.

 

[adrianouli]

Hi folks!

Reading everything you all wrote, I’ll try to go with…
Remark: I did not find Centennial and Simcoe this time =/ , so I had to buy Chinook, them I go for:

6,5kg Pale Ale (2 Row) grain
0,325kg (5%) Caramunich grain
40gr Warrior 60m
20gr Chinook 10m
20gr Chinook 5m
10gr Columbus 0m
1 California Ale WLP001
60gr. Chinook for dry hopping.

Fermenting in a bucket something like:
18C per about 4 days
19C per 2 more days
20C per 2 more day
21C for 3 weeks more (w/o purge the yeast) and adding dry hop 4 or 5 days before bottling…

Wish me luck!
Thanks for contributing… I comeback soon to tell you all, how was!!!

Cheerssss!

 

[adrianouli]

doubt.... do I have to respect the temperature recommended for "California Ale WLP001", between 20C - 23C in the fermentation period?
If so, I have to review my fermentation vs. Temperature schedule....

Thanks

 

[dcp27]

nope, your plan is fine. 001 is good down to around 15C

 

[adrianouli]

Hi to all!

Seems everything went right with the AIPA!!!
But, as (always) some small problems use to happen, we had problem to cool the wort as fast as I was expecting…
Usually we use a basin filled with ice to put the pan with the wort, and this time the basin was suddenly broke…yes, believe!!!
We had to go to a supermarket (far away) to buy a new…. I expected to cool the wort in about 30/40 minutes, but we had to wait about 3 hours for that… We could achieve 24C so I added the yeast, put inside the refrigerator and it is now fermenting in 18C….

If someone knows, please tell me if this unexpected time waste for cooling the wort can damage my AIPA!!!

Tks!!!