rgregoryirving
Well-Known Member
I had great success with this method this weekend, almost 10 additional points in my mash efficiency.
All in one system sparging
- Thread starter Velnerj
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I know that striving for increased efficiency is sometimes marginalized by those who say "just add more grain... it's cheap", however it was gratifying to get my efficiency percentage out of the high 60's.
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I use two Mash & Boil units. I mash in one then sparge/mash out in the other, combine and boil. I average 83% efficiency with this set up.
rgregoryirving
Well-Known Member
I couldn't agree more. For me, I really think there is something to be said about improving and refining (my) process - after all this is a hobby.
I sparge in my 6.5 Foundry because I sparge in my propane setup. OK off the top that sounds silly, but I use my 6.5 to make half sized batches, so about 3 gallons after boil and 2.75 or so into the fermenter, 2.5 or so into the keg. Since this is half what I get from a propane day ("5 gallons") it means I can scale my recipes precisely in half. Or headed the other way I can simply double them. And so I sparge w/ the Foundry so I can get about the same efficiency as well. Otherwise I'd be at the LHBS trying to weigh out 8 pounds, 5.329 ounces of grain or something.
Also, with volume limited systems, it is not always an option to "just add a couple more lbs of grain."
Brew on
I have an Inkbird sous vide machine on order that I'm going to attempt to use to heat sparge water. Even if it doesn't work I can still use it for cooking.
I bought one when inkbird had one of those discount coupons on HBtalk a year ago or so. Haven't used it yet, will have to try on next batch.
The tray I used worked but barely, this is exactly what I needed. Thanks for the post. I have one on order.
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I just finished testing the sous vide machine on 2 gallons of my 49 degree tap water in an uncovered plastic bucket. Total time to reach 170 was 53 minutes.
Mac MacFarlane
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I found a used 100 cup coffee urn cheap and use it with a ink bird. Takes about 45min to heat the sparge water.
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Velnerj
Simul justus et potator
Had my maiden voyage with my new all in one system. Very satisfied with how it simplified my process.
I ended up with around a 67% brewhouse efficiency. I decided to go with no sparge but it was a decision made on the fly. My original intention was to heat up all of the brewing water then pull about 2 gallons into my old mash tin cooler. Once I did that and added my grist I found that there wasn't nearly enough water for a mash. It wasn't just a thick mash it didn't even get all my grain wet. So I added the 2 gallons back in and it looked more normal. I guess I didn't account for the dead space between the unit and the malt pipe.
In the future if I want to sparge I'll probably just use cold water and have to go with a longer boil as I'll probably need to use more water than I'm used to. But on the other hand, 67% from 75% isn't that different and the ease of process with not sparging seems to be a reasonable trade off for the loss of efficiency.
I'll need to actually run more recipes and especially ones that are (very) high in gravity. The last recipe reached 1.063 (with 0.5kg of sugar) so it wasn't a small beer... But if I want to do a 1.100 beer I'll most likely will need use dme and a longer boil with ending in a smaller batch size. But with beers that big smaller batches are probably OK anyway.
I ended up with around a 67% brewhouse efficiency. I decided to go with no sparge but it was a decision made on the fly. My original intention was to heat up all of the brewing water then pull about 2 gallons into my old mash tin cooler. Once I did that and added my grist I found that there wasn't nearly enough water for a mash. It wasn't just a thick mash it didn't even get all my grain wet. So I added the 2 gallons back in and it looked more normal. I guess I didn't account for the dead space between the unit and the malt pipe.
In the future if I want to sparge I'll probably just use cold water and have to go with a longer boil as I'll probably need to use more water than I'm used to. But on the other hand, 67% from 75% isn't that different and the ease of process with not sparging seems to be a reasonable trade off for the loss of efficiency.
I'll need to actually run more recipes and especially ones that are (very) high in gravity. The last recipe reached 1.063 (with 0.5kg of sugar) so it wasn't a small beer... But if I want to do a 1.100 beer I'll most likely will need use dme and a longer boil with ending in a smaller batch size. But with beers that big smaller batches are probably OK anyway.
I have a 6.5 Foundry. Rather than attempt to work thru the full volume mash, but still wanting to sparge, I opted to backtrack a few steps to traditional batch sparging.
Like others have mentioned I utilize an Igloo cooler, but as MIAB. Rather than dedicate the kettle to maintaining a mash temp, I use it to heat the mash water, transfer to the cooler, and then have the kettle free to heat the sparge water.
The only additional piece of equipment I utilize that makes this all work is a 5 gal bucket as a holding vessel for first runnings. Once the cooler has been drained, drain the kettle for 2nd runnings. Now the kettle is empty, so dump in first runnings and start ramping up the boil.
No pumps needed, no 2nd kettle either, but you will need to dump 2-3 gallons of runnings into your kettle, which I am able to do by hand. The mash eff. for me hovers in the 75-81% range, which is fine.
The side benefit when using a cooler is that a 6.5 foundry + 6.1gal/23L keg-fermenter can easily produce a full 5gal/19L corny keg of finished beer (at least up to 1.060OG anyways).
Like others have mentioned I utilize an Igloo cooler, but as MIAB. Rather than dedicate the kettle to maintaining a mash temp, I use it to heat the mash water, transfer to the cooler, and then have the kettle free to heat the sparge water.
The only additional piece of equipment I utilize that makes this all work is a 5 gal bucket as a holding vessel for first runnings. Once the cooler has been drained, drain the kettle for 2nd runnings. Now the kettle is empty, so dump in first runnings and start ramping up the boil.
No pumps needed, no 2nd kettle either, but you will need to dump 2-3 gallons of runnings into your kettle, which I am able to do by hand. The mash eff. for me hovers in the 75-81% range, which is fine.
The side benefit when using a cooler is that a 6.5 foundry + 6.1gal/23L keg-fermenter can easily produce a full 5gal/19L corny keg of finished beer (at least up to 1.060OG anyways).
Did you adjust the PH of your sparge water? If not, I'm guessing that's likely the cause of your tannins, not the temp of the water.
Nubiwan
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LOL! Ive often thought of using my garden hose (its quite new) to add water to my kettle to save me dragging a 10 gallon kettle to my garage. I've been too scared to do it for reasons i think (you think) people may "lose their mud". Would it be so bad? Sure save my back. Hose could have a few infestations, spiders, etc. It all gets boiled, so is it so bad. Muddy waters!
RufusBrewer
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Green garden hose syndrome. I know of some that claim an old green garden hose that has been sitting around, exposed to UV laden sun light will impart horrible nasty compounds into your brew water.
Maybe a green garden hose does that. I do not know one way or the other. If so, to what degree? I do not know.
The solution is a potable water hose. Usually white to indicate it's potable drinking water properties. I have a white hose. I use it only for brewing. Can't hurt my beer, not that much more expensive.
Depends on the flavor I guess. The water from my garden hose, unless it's been turned on for quite a long time, is pretty dang awful. And at the beginning of a brew day it's definitely not been turned on for a long time yet.
well, I always flush the hose a bit before attaching my inline charcoal filter. All my garden hoses are the heavy black rubber type. Not that crappy vinyl that kinks...
Didn't we all drink from them as kids??? well, that might explain a lot of "adults"...
Didn't we all drink from them as kids??? well, that might explain a lot of "adults"...
Yep, and the water tasted terrible!
Martys1
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With the AF6.6, when I lift the mash pipe and set, I spare w/170 water.I get the level up to 5.5-6 then put the pipe on a tray and add it back to the mash.
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