So the airlock got clogged, so I cleaned it out. Then again and the grommet fell in the fermentor, so I packed paper towels soaked in sanitizer around the base. Seems like in the future I need a better solution. The "S" air locks don't seem much better. Are there other options out there?
Air Lock Trouble
- Thread starter Bob C.
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Seems like the problem is the grommet not the airlock. On my fermentors there are no grommet and the airlocks are inserted in a rubber stopper and dont usually come loose without some effort.
S-shaped airlock are harder to clean than the 3piece ones.
A simple blow-off tube into a jar of starsan works well if you can keep from knocking it over. If you need to clean your airlock a blow-off tube is better than a airlock.
S-shaped airlock are harder to clean than the 3piece ones.
A simple blow-off tube into a jar of starsan works well if you can keep from knocking it over. If you need to clean your airlock a blow-off tube is better than a airlock.
skunkape
Pull my finger…
Sounds like you could use a larger volume fermenter. I'm assuming a 5gal batch. Take a look at the Speidel 30L. You'd have to be brewing some kind of a massive high grav quad to overpower the headspace and clog the big ole airlock on one of those.
What kind of fermenter are you using? What is your batch size?
You'd want at least 1/4 of your batch volume as headspace. For example, around 1.5 gallon of headspace for a 5 gallon batch. A 6.5 gallon "brew size bucket" will provide that. Still...
For some yeasts/fermentations more volume may be needed.
Also depends on how much you control your fermentation temps. Higher ferm temps cause more activity, more foam, more blow offs.
You'd want at least 1/4 of your batch volume as headspace. For example, around 1.5 gallon of headspace for a 5 gallon batch. A 6.5 gallon "brew size bucket" will provide that. Still...
For some yeasts/fermentations more volume may be needed.
Also depends on how much you control your fermentation temps. Higher ferm temps cause more activity, more foam, more blow offs.
Thanks everyone for your responses. It's an Imperial Brown Ale. As I was putting the airlock back in the primary fermenter the grommet fell in the fermentor. I just placed the airlock in the hole and put a couple of starsan soaked paper towels around to secure it. Everything seems to be going good, bubbling right along.
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Figure out the total volume of your FV and then only use 80% of it for wort, leaving 20% for headspace and you should be good for most beers. Even then, occasionally you might have mishaps.
Using a blow off tube going into a bubbler jar might help too, particularly if you use larger diameter tubing. But different setups and your own preferences might make them undesirable.
Using a blow off tube going into a bubbler jar might help too, particularly if you use larger diameter tubing. But different setups and your own preferences might make them undesirable.
Whisky River
Well-Known Member
If you wind up having problems when the paper towels dry out you might also try plastic wrap.
This was my experience a few years ago, when I first started brewing. I learned the hard way to have backup grommets sanitized and ready. I think your paper “grommet” should work. My system (StarSan my arm and go spelunking for my grommet) didn’t work for me. 
Interesting. Only time I ever had a ferment blow through an airlock was an Imperial Nut Brown Ale. Five gallons in a 6.5 gallon bucket. I usually get away with less head space than that. Although I don't use airlocks much anymore since I'm almost always using the fermentation gas to purge something.
But anyway, N = 2 now.
I don't see where you mentioned what type of fermenter you're using. If it's a bucket and flat lid I would suggest adding this type of fitting to the lid and using a blow off hose. The hose would be sized for the barb fitting and the other end goes into a jug with water ( some use sanitizer or vodka instead of water).
If you're handy you could fabricate your own fitting but this has everything you need.
Air locks are fine but they do have their issues as you have you found.
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redrocker652002
Well-Known Member
I use the S style airlock on a bucket fermenter with a red rubber grommet. I do 5 gallon batches and I think the bucket is 6.5 gallons. I had my airlock plug up once and it loosened the lid enough for krausen to leak onto my floor and in my fermentation fridge. I have had the grommet pop off when I am trying to pull it out of the lid, but never drop into the beer from the lid. I like the blowoff tube idea as it gives me a bit more room if things get over fermented and it is a dump load easier to clean a longer tube and a jar of starsan than a wood floor and the inside of a mini fridge. LOL.
The picture I posted is an expensive option for a bucket but I hope it gives an idea to add a barbed fitting and blow off tube instead of using an airlock.
I have used all types of air locks on buckets when I was getting comfortable with brewing. I still use a blow off tube ( and a spunding valve) on my Spike conical.
I have used all types of air locks on buckets when I was getting comfortable with brewing. I still use a blow off tube ( and a spunding valve) on my Spike conical.
3/8" plastic double-sided barbs fit into the same grommets as the airlocks use. They're cheap and easy, and mine don't leak. YMMV of course.
Same as what I was thinking but couldn't find a good picture to post.
There's many simple and cheap options to use.
Thanks for adding to the suggestions!
As long as you’re still using the grommet, you can take the top off a 3-piece bubbler and just attach a hose to the stem inside the bubbler cup and run this blow-off hose to your jar of water/sanitizer until the fermentation calms down a bit. Then, you can remove the hose, fill the cup, replace the inverted cup & cap, fill it and let it finish on out with the bubbler.
True, but there's really no need to switch back and like I said I'm usually using the fermentation gas to purge something anyway.
I agree that it is not necessary to switch back. When I have done this, I switched back to avoid the possibility of knocking the jar over.
Like you, I am now using the gas to purge my receiving keg. Of course, the possibility of eruptions through the vent can still occur if you are over capacity on the fermenter, or have a very active start. I’ve pitched harvested Kveik yeast that started pushing gas 10 minutes after pitching! I usually let these start out on a blowoff first before starting the purge.
My first thought is that the grommet in OP’s lid may be too small. As much as a pain it is to get one installed, I can’t imagine one of mine just falling in the bucket. They make a couple different sizes of grommets, and I am wondering if the real problem is that the smaller grommet has been placed in a hole made for the larger sized one.
Am I the only one who cried a little when reading that suggestion? lol
It did make me pause. (Maybe I did tear up a bit.) Before I used sanitizer, I used to use vodka in my airlocks. I also dispensed with a quart of harsh moonshine that was gifted to me. A quart goes a long way when using it only a airlock-full at a time.
See, not such a stupid idea. If I didn't mention it someone would have jumped in with it.
Honestly, use the cheap stuff.
Honestly, use the cheap stuff.
redrocker652002
Well-Known Member
So, for those that use the CO2 from the fermenting keg to purge your serving keg, when do you know you are at FG? Or do you just figure to wait about 2 weeks and transfer?
I use a Tilt, so it provides a guide. However, I still temper that feedback with past experience, and give the yeast time to do their thing.
If I should have a real difference between the Tilt and my expectations, I would simply hook up my CO2 and push out a sample to check with my hydrometer; nothing particularly different than when I didn’t do the keg purging. (My fermenter does not have a spigot.)
Wise.
Two words - krausen catcher.
My fermenters all have spigots or dip tubes, so sampling is not an issue. But I almost always just leave it alone for at least three weeks anyway.
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