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Aging plan for Corny kegs. Reasonable?

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cscade

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Here's what I'm planning to do for my next brew, and I'm curious if it seems to make sense to everyone.

  1. Primary 7 Days
  2. Primary additional 7 days while dry hopping
  3. Transfer to Corny
  4. Purge
  5. Fill to 15 PSI
  6. Store at 62f for two weeks
  7. Refrigerate/Carbonate/Serve

Mainly step 5 is what I am curious about. I feel like I should age it pressurized, just for sanitary reasons. But, the main reason I'm aging at 62f in the first place (instead of aging in the fridge) is to encourage the yeast to clean up. Will that 15 psi of head pressure prevent them from working, or working as well?
 
Suppose an IPA for instance. At 2.2 volumes CO2 at 62f, that's 21psi. Isn't that an awful lot for the yeast to work under? I've always heard yeast don't like pressure.
 
He's talking about bottle conditioning, just using the keg as a big bottle.

I'd extend step 1 out to about 2 - 3 weeks instead of 7 days and then prime the keg with about 3 oz of corn sugar and condition just like bottles.

Let it sit in the kegerator for a few day to cool after it conditions and then dispense. The first pint or two might have sediment, but then you'll be clear as long as you don't move the keg much.
 
Here's what I'm planning to do for my next brew, and I'm curious if it seems to make sense to everyone.

  1. Primary 7 Days
  2. Primary additional 7 days while dry hopping
  3. Transfer to Corny
  4. Purge
  5. Fill to 15 PSI
  6. Store at 62f for two weeks
  7. Refrigerate/Carbonate/Serve

Mainly step 5 is what I am curious about. I feel like I should age it pressurized, just for sanitary reasons. But, the main reason I'm aging at 62f in the first place (instead of aging in the fridge) is to encourage the yeast to clean up. Will that 15 psi of head pressure prevent them from working, or working as well?
Short answer is that it would work fine imo.

Not so short answer:
It's not gonna stay at 15 psi. Some of that CO2 will dissolve into solution and after a few days it won't be 15 psi (unless of course it continues to ferment and creates more CO2). You definitely need to have pressure on a corny keg for it to seal properly (similar to needing vacuum in a mason jar for it to seal properly).

I have read that high pressure can reduce the yeasts ability to clean up but only in one place (some passing comment @ probrewer.com) and I think it's at higher pressures than just 15 psi.

I almost always let my ales sit at room temp for a week or two after racking to cornies just to let the remaining yeasties have their last chance at cleaning up. I always just gas it up to the serving temp the reg is set at. I would think a higher temp than 62 F would allow ale yeasts to clean up better/faster. I would just keep it anywhere between typ ale ferment temps and room temp.

FWIW, I rack my lagers at about 10 days and then let them naturally carbonate in a corny keg (still @ ~50 F) while they finish and they seem to turn out fine. I don't even have a spunding and usually don't vent it, the pressure just creeps higher and higher and then usually stops at just over 2.0 volumes (~15 psi @ 50 F) when I reach FG, then I force-carb the rest of the way (if needed).

mmb's suggestion about priming in the keg and carbing it that way is a great one imo. Even if you over or under prime it, that's easily fixed.
 
Suppose an IPA for instance. At 2.2 volumes CO2 at 62f, that's 21psi. Isn't that an awful lot for the yeast to work under? I've always heard yeast don't like pressure.

Yes, it is a lot of pressure for the yeast to be working under. But, the yeast should be done with everything before you rack from the primary. I think the plan is good, the only thing I would really expect the yeast to be doing in the secondary at that temp is dropping out of solution.
 
Yeast can bottle condition beers at 4-plus volumes CO2 at temperatures above 80F.
They're still doing their thing at pressures far above 15 psi, though I think it is stressful for them.
 
I'm thinking diacetyl cleanup is going to be happening at 62f yet... I'm crazy?

As an aside, I'm really trying to avoid carbing with sugar. I just don't want that to be part of my process anymore if I can help it.
 
What i do
Primary for between 3-10 weeks depending on when I have time. Rack to corny, Purge, seal and store keg at room temp until a spot open up in the keezer.
 
Depends what yeast you're fermenting with and the temps. For most ale yeasts, I don't bother changing temp for a d rest and just extend primary out to a few weeks. Doesn't hurt your beer and the autolosis boogieman shouldn't (doesn't) happen in that time frame with a healthy pitch of yeast and reasonable temps.

I've never noticed diacetyl in my ales anyway, even with rushed 10-14 day grain to glass beers like > 1.040 SMaSHs or Milds.
 
I store all my kegs under pressure, fully carbonated (or hooked up to the gas line to carbonate). There is no problem. Serving or storing pressures are not enough to stress yeast to the point they will shut down or do something unpleasant to your beer. Shoot, I've had more than one keg cold cna totally carbonated to an equilibrium head pressure of 12 psi and then pulled it out to sit in the laundry room for a couple days (with no venting), then put back into the cooler. All has gone well, always.

The one change I would make, though, is to purge the keg before filling. That's just cheap insurance.


TL
 
You're going to have to apply multiple "shots" of CO2 to the room temp. corney to get it to carbonate, or, keep the gas connected and keep the keg under constant CO2 pressure.

I can't tell from your post if that's part of your plan. I do see that carbonation is included in your step 7.

Good Luck...
 
I've never noticed diacetyl in my ales anyway, even with rushed 10-14 day grain to glass beers like > 1.040 SMaSHs or Milds.

I've got a pretty gnarly diacetyl character in my currently kegged IPA, which is why I'm fiddling with this in the first place.

I made ten gallons, kegged five and bottled five. The kegged five went right into the fridge and after 3 weeks in there has not changed one bit and the diacetyl is very noticeable. The bottles however, which have been 62f that whole time have no noticeable diacetyl at all (and consequently is a much better beer). So I'm thinking more time for the yeast to clean up above refrigeration temps is key.

Looks like you guys are recommending 2 weeks prior to dry hopping though? That would extend the time to glass to six weeks. Not that I have a problem with that, but it's considerably more than I usually do. :drunk:
 
You're going to have to apply multiple "shots" of CO2 to the room temp. corney to get it to carbonate, or, keep the gas connected and keep the keg under constant CO2 pressure.

I can't tell from your post if that's part of your plan. I do see that carbonation is included in your step 7.

Good Luck...

I was not intending to carbonate during that time, just provide enough pressure to seal the keg tightly while it's aging. Then carb when I chill.
 
Your diacetyl problem has far more to do with the storage temperature on your kegs, rather than the pressure. Pull the keg out for a couple days, and you might see a big difference. After three weeks, you may see that you need to rouse the yeast a little, too (just shake up the keg -- yes, you will have to wait for it to clear out, again, but it's the price you pay if you don't want a butterscotch bomb).

I recommend carbonating the beer at least to the point where it will keep sealed. One shot to pressurize the headspace to 15 psi probably ain't gonna do it. Leave it at storage pressure for at least 7 days, or go with one the quick carbonating techniques.


TL
 

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