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Aerating wort

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doctor strangebrew

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I have a simple idea to get more air into my wort (can't buy anything at the moment so use what I have) After the wort cools down enough to deal with, I am going to use three 1 gallon jugs, fill part way and shake them vigorously (one at a time, alternating) I'm doing 3 gallon batch, and using smaller brew kettle so will need to add some water to fermenter anyway. This seems better than other methods of pouring back and forth because the jugs will stay sealed and less chance of contamination. I recently learned how important aeration is making cider... first batch didn't aerate well and fermentaion was very slow. Next batch (these are just 1 gallon) shook the heck out of it and worked great. Does this make sense?
 
After reading horror stories about glass carboys, I'm afraid to shake one (even a 3 gallon... no way with a 5 gallon) but a little 1 gallon (with built-in handle) is too easy! I use the 1 gallon jugs for cider anyway.
 
After reading horror stories about glass carboys, I'm afraid to shake one (even a 3 gallon... no way with a 5 gallon) but a little 1 gallon (with built-in handle) is too easy! I use the 1 gallon jugs for cider anyway.
I used the red o2 cans with a stone as I was not a fan of shaking the carboy either. Cheers
 
If you're using dry yeast, you don't really need to aerate.

Most of my yeast is liquid so I'm making a starter (and I aerate that with an oxygen stone). Then I'll aerate the wort after pitching, again using an O2 stone.
 
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I now use an air stone and oxygen tank, but I used to use two sanitized 5 gallon home depot buckets and pour the wort back and forth. It was a pain and I was always worried that I was going to spill it. I would say your way is fine and less likely to make a mess.
 
Using dry yeast for now (in the past my best beer was with liquid yeasts, but low on funds now) I still think it's important to get lots of oxygen.
 
I have a simple idea to get more air into my wort (can't buy anything at the moment so use what I have) After the wort cools down enough to deal with, I am going to use three 1 gallon jugs, fill part way and shake them vigorously (one at a time, alternating) I'm doing 3 gallon batch, and using smaller brew kettle so will need to add some water to fermenter anyway. This seems better than other methods of pouring back and forth because the jugs will stay sealed and less chance of contamination. I recently learned how important aeration is making cider... first batch didn't aerate well and fermentaion was very slow. Next batch (these are just 1 gallon) shook the heck out of it and worked great. Does this make sense?
Makes sense but a good wort trickled into the carboy does just fine
 
I let the chilled wort splash into my 7 gal glass carboys, and aerate further by resting the carboy on a lacross ball, and using the ball as a fulcrum to shake the carboy and splash the wort around.

I also lift the carboys using brewhauler straps.
 
Recently upgraded from 5 to 10 gal brews. Previously poured 5 gal bucket to bucket to aerate. Now using std air pump filtered with 2 micron bubbler but not sure how much time should I aerate for sufficient O2 in wort. First batch stopped fermentation in about one day. Will check SP next to determine way forward. Options??
 
Using dry yeast for now (in the past my best beer was with liquid yeasts, but low on funds now) I still think it's important to get lots of oxygen.

With dry yeast there is no need to aerate. I emailed Fermentis about this. They said the way they propagate and package the yeast, there is no demand of oxygen from the yeast. They are capable of budding and splitting up to 10 times without oxygen. Adding oxygen won't hurt but it isn't beneficial either. Basically a wasted step.
 
Thanks for the feedback! Tested Wort is near FG so I guess short fermentation worked.
 
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