Aerating an SS Brewbucket

[toddo97]

I've been using my SS for about a year now and really like it, but had a thought after doing my last batch. I've always done the shake method for aeration, but if I were to do a big beer or just to ensure that I get enough O2 into the wort, could I hook up an aquarium pump to the ball valve to get air in? That way I wouldn't need to worry about whether or not the airstone is sufficiently sanitized. It would also be a method of getting CO2 in (not with the pump of course). I would imagine the hose that comes with the pump is too small of a diameter to fit, buy if I heated it, I might be able to get it on.

 

[isomerization]

Keep it simple my friend. You’re much less likely to have contamination from an O2/carb stone than trying to pump through a ball valve.

 

[MaxStout]

Just oxygenate using a stone when you pitch yeast. You have the lid off the BB then anyway. Aerate, then close the lid. Aeration stones are easy to sanitize. Boil it in water for a few minutes.

If you want a way to inject CO2 (I assume for closed transfers?), SS has a blow off barb for the Brew Bucket.

 

[Vale71]

The bubbles you would get with your simple solution are going to be huge. As a result, you'll get tons of foaming but will actually get very little O2 into solution. If you get a sintered steel stone you can sanitize it with 100% safety just by boiling it for 10-15 minutes, which is not that hard to do.

 

[ProblemChild]

My understanding is that atmospheric air can only impart a limited amount of O2 to the wort. Pure O2 can deliver considerably more. The other part of it is that big beers need big O2. I may be wrong, but that is how I have understood it. I would choose the pure O2 and stone over a pump.

 

[toddo97]

Just oxygenate using a stone when you pitch yeast. You have the lid off the BB then anyway. Aerate, then close the lid. Aeration stones are easy to sanitize. Boil it in water for a few minutes.

If you want a way to inject CO2 (I assume for closed transfers?), SS has a blow off barb for the Brew Bucket.

I was thinking about adding CO2 when I have to pop the top to add dry hops or a tincture

 

[toddo97]

My understanding is that atmospheric air can only impart a limited amount of O2 to the wort. Pure O2 can deliver considerably more. The other part of it is that big beers need big O2. I may be wrong, but that is how I have understood it. I would choose the pure O2 and stone over a pump.

From what I've read pure O2 will get you there much faster that air, but as long as you give it enough time, air will get you enough O2

 

[toddo97]

Keep it simple my friend. You’re much less likely to have contamination from an O2/carb stone than trying to pump through a ball valve.

Maybe I'll go for that instead--what's recommended micron size for stones?

 

[MaxStout]

IIRC, using air, the maximum O2 in solution will be around 8ppm, which is adequate for many beers. But higher gravity beers and lagers with larger yeast pitches need more, and pure O2 will introduce a higher level into solution.

 

[Rev2010]

O2 wand and disposable Bernzomatic cans from the hardware store is really the way to go! Just go for it, it's inexpensive and will aerate much better as well as faster. Been doing this for years just sanitizing the wand before use and never a problem.


Rev.

 

[deadwolfbones]

My understanding is that atmospheric air can only impart a limited amount of O2 to the wort. Pure O2 can deliver considerably more. The other part of it is that big beers need big O2. I may be wrong, but that is how I have understood it. I would choose the pure O2 and stone over a pump.

One data point: I did a 1.121 pastry stout in my SS Bucket with no more aeration than letting it pour out of my Robobrew faucet and drop ~3ft into the bucket. Fermented with US-05 and got 67% attenuation, which was right on the money for the Beersmith estimate.

I've never done anything more than let gravity add O2 to my wort, and I've never had a stuck fermentation. I did have a lager that was slow to start, though.

 

[toddo97]

IIRC, using air, the maximum O2 in solution will be around 8ppm, which is adequate for many beers. But higher gravity beers and lagers with larger yeast pitches need more, and pure O2 will introduce a higher level into solution.

Thanks--that's good to know

 

[toddo97]

O2 wand and disposable Bernzomatic cans from the hardware store is really the way to go! Just go for it, it's inexpensive and will aerate much better as well as faster. Been doing this for years just sanitizing the wand before use and never a problem.


Rev.

About how much for that setup and how many batches can you aerate with a can?

 

[toddo97]

One data point: I did a 1.121 pastry stout in my SS Bucket with no more aeration than letting it pour out of my Robobrew faucet and drop ~3ft into the bucket. Fermented with US-05 and got 67% attenuation, which was right on the money for the Beersmith estimate.

I've never done anything more than let gravity add O2 to my wort, and I've never had a stuck fermentation. I did have a lager that was slow to start, though.

That's pretty impressive--my last beer was an imperial stout that started at 1.104 and is at 1.031 (with 8 oz of lactose) so I'm pretty happy so far--I expect it to drop a few more points. I figure if I'm sure my yeast has enough O2, that's one less thing to worry about.

 

[Rev2010]

About how much for that setup and how many batches can you aerate with a can?

About $60 for the kit https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/oxygenation-kit

and about $10 for each cylinder. As for how much you can do with each can it's hard for me to say as I've not yet run out. I only aerate my liquid yeast though, I stopped aerating my dry yeast since the manufacturer's say they don't need it. I can say though you can aerate at *least* 25 batches. Maybe others can chime in with a more accurate number.


Rev.